What I have, what I need, haven't detailed in a decade!
- Thread starter h00ligan
- Start date
Rob T
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- Jul 28, 2007
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It just works better for me than the other clay bars that I have tried. I like the texture, and it seems to remove contaminant easier (in fewer passes) than others.
I have not tried the Pinnacle clay though.
- Thread starter
- #24
Thanks, I thought they basically fit all five gallon buckets. I'll make sure to do some searching.
@rob t, appreciate it! I think any claying I have to do right now is so minor that most will work.
Kurt_s
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- Dec 18, 2009
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Welcome. First, no worries... Lots of great suggestions here.
You have a new car. A fine clay bar should be all you need. The Mother's or Meguiar's OTC clay bar kits are reasonably fine.
Don't worry, just use enough lube to let the clay GLIDE over the the paint. After a few tries, you'll get a feel for it. I tend to move my clay linearly, front to back but sometimes I need to be circular to remove "stuck" fallout.
You don't need to rub hard (sometimes you might get tempted), just move smoothly until the "grittiness" goes away. I have a white car and "fallout" tends to be either black dots or brown dots that are actually "rust." Take the time to remove the "dots" with the clay as it is much easier than using a polish.
You will need to fold over the clay to get a new surface. Watch the videos to get a basic feeling. I used Meguiar's clay and split the bar into ~30-40 mg pieces. Since there is only one source of "clay" in the US, the OTC Megs and Mother's should be similar. If you drop the piece of bar on the floor, don't use it on your paint. I have not used the Pinnacle clay bar, but it should be fine too.
Many detail sprays will give you the lubrication needed to make the clay work well and protect your paint. I have used Megs Quick Detail (came in the Meguiar's clay kit), Megs Final Inspection, OG Show Off and now diluted Optimum No Rinse and Shine (ONR). Car wash soaps added to water will also provide appropriate lubrication. Some guys use plain water after washing the car to clay (I still use some type of lubrication for safety but I tend towards safety first).
It's not rocket science, the Mothers' clay will be fine. The nice thing about using ONR as a clay lube, it has multiple uses. I found that the Clay feels very different when you use ONR vs other detail sprays like Megs Quick Detail. Don't worry, you're learning and it all works out well. If you don't use enough lube, the clay tends to stick to the paint (not a good thing).
My needs for pads may be different for you. I own a PCXP and use several different chemicals for compounding and polishing. I also own both newer and older BMWs, and paint is really different between vehicles. Listen to the guys that work on your vehicle"s (and years) paint. I moved to 5.5 flat pads from 6.5" CCS pads over the last few months. For me, life is much better with 5.5" flat pads vs 6.5" CCS pads.
Since I deal with more "older" vehicles that need more "correction," I use more orange pads and can normally get away with 1-2 white pads. I 1 red pad for applying a sealant or wax. I bought 2 6.5" red pads, and only used 1 6.5" pad once. I now use either 4" or 5.5" pads for waxes and sealants. I suggest that you don't use the same pad for both waxes and sealants.
My major recommendation, don't worry too much. Work clean, use the least aggressive process for each step and you will figure it out pretty quickly with guidance from guys like Mike Phillips. You will be amazed how baby butt smooth and shiny you car will be with just a little dedication.
Enjoy!
You have a new car. A fine clay bar should be all you need. The Mother's or Meguiar's OTC clay bar kits are reasonably fine.
Don't worry, just use enough lube to let the clay GLIDE over the the paint. After a few tries, you'll get a feel for it. I tend to move my clay linearly, front to back but sometimes I need to be circular to remove "stuck" fallout.
You don't need to rub hard (sometimes you might get tempted), just move smoothly until the "grittiness" goes away. I have a white car and "fallout" tends to be either black dots or brown dots that are actually "rust." Take the time to remove the "dots" with the clay as it is much easier than using a polish.
You will need to fold over the clay to get a new surface. Watch the videos to get a basic feeling. I used Meguiar's clay and split the bar into ~30-40 mg pieces. Since there is only one source of "clay" in the US, the OTC Megs and Mother's should be similar. If you drop the piece of bar on the floor, don't use it on your paint. I have not used the Pinnacle clay bar, but it should be fine too.
Many detail sprays will give you the lubrication needed to make the clay work well and protect your paint. I have used Megs Quick Detail (came in the Meguiar's clay kit), Megs Final Inspection, OG Show Off and now diluted Optimum No Rinse and Shine (ONR). Car wash soaps added to water will also provide appropriate lubrication. Some guys use plain water after washing the car to clay (I still use some type of lubrication for safety but I tend towards safety first).
It's not rocket science, the Mothers' clay will be fine. The nice thing about using ONR as a clay lube, it has multiple uses. I found that the Clay feels very different when you use ONR vs other detail sprays like Megs Quick Detail. Don't worry, you're learning and it all works out well. If you don't use enough lube, the clay tends to stick to the paint (not a good thing).
My needs for pads may be different for you. I own a PCXP and use several different chemicals for compounding and polishing. I also own both newer and older BMWs, and paint is really different between vehicles. Listen to the guys that work on your vehicle"s (and years) paint. I moved to 5.5 flat pads from 6.5" CCS pads over the last few months. For me, life is much better with 5.5" flat pads vs 6.5" CCS pads.
Since I deal with more "older" vehicles that need more "correction," I use more orange pads and can normally get away with 1-2 white pads. I 1 red pad for applying a sealant or wax. I bought 2 6.5" red pads, and only used 1 6.5" pad once. I now use either 4" or 5.5" pads for waxes and sealants. I suggest that you don't use the same pad for both waxes and sealants.
My major recommendation, don't worry too much. Work clean, use the least aggressive process for each step and you will figure it out pretty quickly with guidance from guys like Mike Phillips. You will be amazed how baby butt smooth and shiny you car will be with just a little dedication.
Enjoy!
Kurt_s
New member
- Dec 18, 2009
- 1,263
- 0
Pleasure to help!
I learn something new almost every time I log onto the forum and I've been playing with cars for more than a few years. There are a lot of changes in products over the past 10 years, just as automotive paint (and interiors) have changed a bit too.
Just remember, this is supposed to be fun! Reach out and you will get great advice.
jcarson112
New member
- Jul 2, 2010
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I didn't read through this thread fully but I also have a red GTI and if the dealer did anything like they did with mine... they've filled and hidden swirls and holograms... after the 10 or so washes it's gotten they've REALLY been showing up. Nothing major but its not a perfect finish like I thought I got either.
Def give it a polish... I would say a good AIO should do the trick
Def give it a polish... I would say a good AIO should do the trick
- Thread starter
- #30
Sorry one more clarification...
Orange pad for 3m
White for aio
Grey for sealant glaze
Red for wax
Don't remove anything with the machine, remove all products by hand (well break down the 3m then remove)
Are those the right pad choices? Since there's overlap, I'm not sure when to use white vs grey.
Orange pad for 3m
White for aio
Grey for sealant glaze
Red for wax
Don't remove anything with the machine, remove all products by hand (well break down the 3m then remove)
Are those the right pad choices? Since there's overlap, I'm not sure when to use white vs grey.
- Thread starter
- #31
Sorry to occupy space here with such basic questions. Upon reflection it seems like we could probably get from 6 pads to three..maybe manufacturers just found a way to make more money. There's so much overlap it makes me think yellow white red are the way to go. The in betweens may be for show car guys!
Anyway, I really value the opinions here, so much knowledge!
Anyway, I really value the opinions here, so much knowledge!
Kurt_s
New member
- Dec 18, 2009
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I have not used the 3M swirl remover. AG website indicates rotary use so I don't know about using a DA.
Yellow pads may be more aggressive and leave some marring, although there are times when I wished I had something more aggressive. I use orange pads with WG TSR, Opt Compound II, Megs M105, Megs UC and a few others to correct. I use white for polishing and reds for waxes/sealants. I have blue pad for paint cleaning/one steps and probably should get a couple black/gray for finish polishing.
I plan to pick up a couple of Surbufs and some HydroTech pads instead of the yellow pads. I would try the least aggressive pads and compounds first to minimize unnecessary removal of paint.
Hope that helps.
Kurt_s
New member
- Dec 18, 2009
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I use a red pad for sealant application but I use WG DGPS as my main sealant. I also separate my red pads into sealant vs waxes.
White is a polishing pad with light cut. I do use it for finishing polishes but probably should be using the black/gray for finish polishing.
I remove everything by hand at this point.
- Thread starter
- #34
Sounds to me like I should be getting 2 red and 2 white and 2 grey for now, since I don't have a ton of correction..
Then use the white for Klasse AIO
grey for Klasse sealant
Red for wax application.
I guess I'll place my order, it would be really nice if it was here before the weekend. Where is AG located? Do they usually prep and ready an order within 24 hrs?
Then use the white for Klasse AIO
grey for Klasse sealant
Red for wax application.
I guess I'll place my order, it would be really nice if it was here before the weekend. Where is AG located? Do they usually prep and ready an order within 24 hrs?
Kurt_s
New member
- Dec 18, 2009
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You may be able to get away with white but I use orange pads for correction.
Per the Klasse application link on AG (below).
White for AIO
Grey for Klasse Sealant, but the application guide recommends hand application.
Red for wax
The AIO will help fill swirls and scratches so you may not need anything more than the AIO to prep the paint. Here is the AG Klasse application guide link. Klasse usa ,Klasse Application Guide, How to apply Klasse AIO, Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze, All-in-one, klasse all-in-one
AG is in Florida and turnaround is quick. They really are a great outfit. It normally takes 5 business days to ship ground to Southern California. If there are weekends and holidays in between, it's taken 10 days to get to me despite shipping that day. If you order right now and spend over $95, you can get free shipping.
There was a 10% discount code floating around a week ago that might still be good too.