20% IPA solution

builthatch

builthatch

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FYI, using 91%:

7.1oz of 91% IPA
24.9oz of h2o (i use distilled)

i was running 50/50 w/ 91 for a long time but after doing some research, i feel a little more comfortable with ~20% at this stage. minutiae, maybe, but considering i only do exotics at this point when working on cars that aren't mine, i'm not comfortable with 50/50 any longer. i might even go lower next bottle but i'm going to try this first.
 
I'm still personally against the IPA thing. To me it's all nonsense. A damp towel of good quality will reveal ur polishing results. 20/40 54/38.7354 ... All useless. U guys are just making the job harder for urself.
 
Dr Oldz said:
I'm still personally against the IPA thing. To me it's all nonsense. A damp towel of good quality will reveal ur polishing results. 20/40 54/38.7354 ... All useless. U guys are just making the job harder for urself.
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a damp towel will not eliminate the oils. this isn't only important for truly seeing the polishing results but to prep the surface for an LSP.
 
builthatch said:
a damp towel will not eliminate the oils. this isn't only important for truly seeing the polishing results but to prep the surface for an LSP.
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Do you say that because the LSP may not adhere to the oils in the polish?
 
LSP may not adhere properly due to the oils left behind on the surface after polishing.

Thereby decreasing the LSP's longevity(if LSP is a sealant/wax)

I wipe the polish residue with a mf towel after misting the towel with IPA(50/50)

Should I go 20%?:confused:
 
Some use it and some don't.

I've used an IPA wipe down after polishing but I've also used Mineral Spirits and even DuPont Prep-Sol.

We all develop what works best for each of us and tend to stick with something we think works.

Drying a car;

Some use a California Blade, others use a Microfiber drying towel......I use an electric leaf blower....
 
The good thing is people can decide for themselves what works best for them.

It works for me.
 
sohail99 said:
LSP may not adhere properly due to the oils left behind on the surface after polishing.

Thereby decreasing the LSP's longevity(if LSP is a sealant/wax)

I wipe the polish residue with a mf towel after misting the towel with IPA(50/50)

Should I go 20%?:confused:
Click to expand...

Check this out
 
sohail99 said:
LSP may not adhere properly due to the oils left behind on the surface after polishing.

Thereby decreasing the LSP's longevity(if LSP is a sealant/wax)
Click to expand...

Miscible and Immiscible - Wax and Paint Sealant Bonding


sohail99 said:
I wipe the polish residue with a mf towel after misting the towel with IPA(50/50)

Should I go 20%?:confused:
Click to expand...

How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results



Bunky said:
The good thing is people can decide for themselves what works best for them.
Click to expand...

As it should be.

:xyxthumbs:
 
BobbyG said:
Some use it and some don't.

I've used an IPA wipe down after polishing but I've also used Mineral Spirits and even DuPont Prep-Sol.

We all develop what works best for each of us and tend to stick with something we think works.

Drying a car;

Some use a California Blade, others use a Microfiber drying towel......I use an electric leaf blower....
Click to expand...
blower is the sh-t best thing i got in a long time thank you
 
Not arguing with u guys here as we all have our own ways!!!! And I may or may not be right here...... I always felt that the polishing oils are kinda a moisturizer for paint such as hand lotion is for dry skin. I never had a longevity problem after polishing. And a question for you guys that do an IPA wipedown..... If you are worried about polishing oils, would a waterless wash remove these oils? It would seem like a safer method if it did indeed remove these oils. More costly that IPA tho....
 
I use a 20% to 30% depending on my Final Polishing product and have never had a problem. I think less is more ! Mineral Spirits seems a tad on the harsh side.
 
One thing you can do just for some background information is to do an Advanced Search and use the search term

IPA


Read through a few threads and you'll see people are all over the spectrum as to opinions on this topic and some people even get kind of emotional about it.

I encouraged someone to write an article on the topic and after a few months since no one took the challenge I took it upon myself to do so and called in a few favors from people I know in this industry that know more about the topic and I trusted their expertise.


There's a difference between chemically stripping water soluble products and things like waxes and paint sealants too but I address this and every question I think a person could come up with in my two articles on these topics.


Miscible and Immiscible - Wax and Paint Sealant Bonding

How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results


At some point... it's time to just keep it simple and wash and wax your car and avoid taking something simple and enjoyable and complicating it to the point of becoming Rocket Science.

:laughing:
 
dougaross said:
Check this out
Click to expand...

i was glad when Mike offered that write up because the info makes perfect sense re: concentration and how it affects paint.

however, it doesn't have a new, "lower" ratio for 91% other than 11.X%. oddly, the 70% IPA math on that page is closer to 19%, so i wanted something closer to that, but with the 91% alcohol i keep around the house.

i am a KISS subscriber through and through. when i find something that works, i stick with it. i'm all about OPT because his stuff works, there are minimal "tricks" to perform and many products can be diluted or have multiple uses. so it's not like i'm doing this IPA thing because i'm bored, i simply figured 50/50 was over kill, read about those facts on here (such as Mike's article) and elsewhere, figured it was indeed, and did the basic math to get it to a lower percentage. that's all. it took me 5 minutes to compute and measure/pour. now my bottle is set, lol.

IPA solution is cheap and works. mineral spirits works but it's more expensive and stinks. prepsol is great stuff to have around (i use bootleg "prep all"), but again it is expensive comparatively speaking to IPA solution and stinks.
 
builthatch said:
i was glad when Mike offered that write up because the info makes perfect sense re: concentration and how it affects paint.

however, it doesn't have a new, "lower" ratio for 91% other than 11.X%. oddly, the 70% IPA math on that page is closer to 19%, so i wanted something closer to that, but with the 91% alcohol i keep around the house.

i am a KISS subscriber through and through. when i find something that works, i stick with it. i'm all about OPT because his stuff works, there are minimal "tricks" to perform and many products can be diluted or have multiple uses. so it's not like i'm doing this IPA thing because i'm bored, i simply figured 50/50 was over kill, read about those facts on here (such as Mike's article) and elsewhere, figured it was indeed, and did the basic math to get it to a lower percentage. that's all. it took me 5 minutes to compute and measure/pour. now my bottle is set, lol.

IPA solution is cheap and works. mineral spirits works but it's more expensive and stinks. prepsol is great stuff to have around (i use bootleg "prep all"), but again it is expensive comparatively speaking to IPA solution and stinks.
Click to expand...

If you start with 7 oz of 91% alcohol and fill the remainder of a 32 oz bottle with water you will end up with a 20% solution.
 
Mike also mentions that a glass cleaner can be used, I would be curious to try this.
 
96Lude said:
Mike also mentions that a glass cleaner can be used, I would be curious to try this.
Click to expand...

Many traditional glass cleaners contain alcohol so it is just another way to do it without having to having IPA mixed up.
 
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