Type II Water Spot Removal - Need Assistance :/

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Hey guys - was asked to remove some water spots today on a black Altima.... sure, this will turn out great! Well, after going through the whole system of least aggression up, it seems that a wool pad and heavy cut compound has to be the first step! For water spots! Then I asked how long they had been there lol (will ask that first from now on :/) - they have been there for over 2 years :awman:. Well, tried the whole vinegar/water deal, and even the steps that would be taken to paint correct and still only 90 % of the water spots are being removed! Any suggestions here guys? Or chop it up to an uncorrectable situation?!?!?!
 
I would try a less aggressive method first. You may be surprised how easy they come out.
 
If you've thrown everything but the kitchen sink at it, no, forget the sink, that won't buff out. The etching in probably deep and might have to be wet sanded in order to completely remove them...

Teat on a small spot Anthony, maybe 12" square and see how it looks, 2000 grit to start and go slow.
 
rider9195 said:
I would try a less aggressive method first. You may be surprised how easy they come out.
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Tried that - always do that first.

Steps taken so far :

1 - white cyclo pads / AIO one step polish

2 - cyclo green / AIO one step

3 - black waffle pad makita / AIO

4 - cyclo green / Mild cut compound

5 - black waffle pad / Mild cut compound

6 - cyclo yellow pads / mild cut compound

7 - Finally Busted Out The Wool Pad and Heavy Cut (only 90% removed)


BobbyG said:
If you've thrown everything but the kitchen sink at it, no, forget the sink, that won't buff out. The etching in probably deep and might have to be wet sanded in order to completely remove them...

Teat on a small spot Anthony, maybe 12" square and see how it looks, 2000 grit to start and go slow.
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I was hoping to avoid that :/ but I think that is the only way (wet sand).... I was curious if there are any products that chemically remove the minerals without having to get super aggressive with the paint?
 
B&B Tennessee said:
I was hoping to avoid that :/ but I think that is the only way (wet sand).... I was curious if there are any products that chemically remove the minerals without having to get super aggressive with the paint?
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The problem being is that the minerals in the water actually etch the paint. So, once they are etched in you are only able to buff them out. Or wet sand then buff out. Your not going to find a chemical to remove the water etching especially if it's been there awhile. The vinegar/water trick works on fairly new water spots and even still that doesn't always work.

It's amazing how damaging water can be huh?!
 
B&B Tennessee said:
... it seems that a wool pad and heavy cut compound has to be the first step!
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:iagree: It is what it is.


B&B Tennessee said:
Then I asked how long they had been there lol (will ask that first from now on :/) - they have been there for over 2 years :awman:.
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Very imporatnt initial question ...and also part of the answer to your dilema.

B&B Tennessee said:
Any suggestions here guys?
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Considering that they are 2 year old WS's and the owner was OK for two years, then I would not suggest wetsanding.
In this business one doe not have to do all...to be all.
The simple fact that you threw the wool/compound/Makita on the WS's should suffice.
One truly does not know the depth that the etchings penetrated.

90 % WS correction is darn good in my book B&B.
 
SeaJay's said:
The problem being is that the minerals in the water actually etch the paint. So, once they are etched in you are only able to buff them out. Or wet sand then buff out. Your not going to find a chemical to remove the water etching especially if it's been there awhile. The vinegar/water trick works on fairly new water spots and even still that doesn't always work.

It's amazing how damaging water can be huh?!
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Yes - very amazing! Thanks for the knowledge toss there :dblthumb2:

twisted1 said:
One truly does not know the depth that the etchings penetrated.

90 % WS correction is darn good in my book B&B.
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Yep that scares me - to cut any deeper.... Im a firm believer of safer than sorry :/ The gentleman was more than happy with the 90% or so, but I wanted to see if there was a way to get it perfect without cutting so much. Thanks for the advice man :dblthumb2:
 
Have you tried a water spot remover? Like Rocky Mountain or Mark V Splash.
B&B Tennessee said:
Yes - very amazing! Thanks for the knowledge toss there :dblthumb2:



Yep that scares me - to cut any deeper.... Im a firm believer of safer than sorry :/ The gentleman was more than happy with the 90% or so, but I wanted to see if there was a way to get it perfect without cutting so much. Thanks for the advice man :dblthumb2:
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Rsurfer said:
Have you tried a water spot remover? Like Rocky Mountain or Mark V Splash.
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No I haven't - if there is a chemical that can remove it without 3, 4, 5 stepping it then I am more than happy to try it out - only with high recommendations though!
 
They do work, but take precaution as they are acids. MX7 is another good water spot remover.
B&B Tennessee said:
No I haven't - if there is a chemical that can remove it without 3, 4, 5 stepping it then I am more than happy to try it out - only with high recommendations though!
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I have the CG water spot remover. It won't work. I does well on light water spots especailly windows but it won't remove them all. If you can't get them out with buffing, the CG stuff won't touch it.
 
Mobile detail said:
I have the CG water spot remover. It won't work. I does well on light water spots especailly windows but it won't remove them all. If you can't get them out with buffing, the CG stuff won't touch it.
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Interesting. How did you use it? Tools, process, etc.?
 
Rsurfer said:
They do work, but take precaution as they are acids. MX7 is another good water spot remover.
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You think they would work on 2 year old water spots on a black car?

Mobile detail said:
I have the CG water spot remover. It won't work. I does well on light water spots especailly windows but it won't remove them all. If you can't get them out with buffing, the CG stuff won't touch it.
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Thanx man - truly believe it won't work on older water spots then?
 
The last time I had water spots that bad...I had to wet sand. 1500, and 3000 on a DA followed by compound and polish.

That's what did it for me. It's risky though...make sure you let the customer know that without a repaint, this is their only option anyways. So, if they give permission to move forward, they need to be prepared for the results regardless.

In other words, going through the clear is not unheard of. They should know that.
 
That's where a PG comes in handy. Not perfect, but will give you an idea if it's safe. I would never wet sand without a PG.
Kristopher1129 said:
That's what did it for me. It's risky though...make sure you let the customer know that without a repaint, this is their only option anyways. So, if they give permission to move forward, they need to be prepared for the results regardless.

In other words, going through the clear is not unheard of. They should know that.
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