Menzerna FG400 & SF4000 technique critique and dusting problems

JJH

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Using a Griots Garage 6" DA buffer and 5.5" Lake County Hydro-tech pads. Detailing a 2012 Chevy Cruze in Crystal Red Tintcoat (leased - do they apply some kind of sealant or coating on top of the clear coat for leases? just curious)

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Method:
-Cyan with FG400, Tangerine with SF4000.
-Applying between 9-15 lbs of pressure on speed 4.5 for everything.
-Doing 4-6 section passes for both compounding and polishing.
-Paint is clayed and free of contaminants.

From what I can tell, this clearcoat is pretty hard. Definitely harder than my 2007 Acura TL type-S's black pearl. I'm running into major dusting problems which I thought were less of a concern with this product as compared to the M105/M205 combo that I am accustomed to using. The working time seems to be significantly less than what I am used to as well. My pads are also pretty warm once I finish a section pass.

Any critique or recommendations that you guys have based on what I have told you I am using between my GG, products, and method?

I did the hood tonight and the results came out pretty good as far as I can tell. Here's some money shots. It's very difficult to see defects in this paint for some reason.

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Hydrotech pads use closed cell foam. That means more product stays on the face of the pad, therefore, creating more dust.
 
Hydrotech pads use closed cell foam. That means more product stays on the face of the pad, therefore, creating more dust.

Thanks, this makes sense. Guess I will have to figure out a good way to deal with the dust before sealing.
 
I would definitely rewash the car before sealing. Plus, you want to remove any polishing oils/fillers so you can get the best bonding.
 
Thanks for the suggestions, I'm just worried about reintroducing new swirls and scratches into the paint upon drying after freshly polishing.

Do you have experience with the above Menzerna products or the GG buffer?
 
M105 dusts really bad with my gg polisher too. I just IPA wipe down everything good before I seal including the windows
 
Try using Wolfgang total swirl remover and the finishing glaze. They creat little to no dust at all and actually polish better than m105/205 combo
 
M105 dusts really bad with my gg polisher too. I just IPA wipe down everything good before I seal including the windows

I don't like doing an IPA wipe down after polishing because it's grabby. Unless the manufacturer recommends that you do a chemical stripping, I don't do it.
 
I'm not using the M105/205 combo. I'm using the Menzerna FG400 and SF4000 combo which I thought would have less dusting than the M105/205 combo. Perhaps I'm doing too many passes since the FG400 has diminishing abrasives or maybe I'm just moving too fast or using too fast of a speed.
 
I don't like doing an IPA wipe down after polishing because it's grabby. Unless the manufacturer recommends that you do a chemical stripping, I don't do it.

If you are using quality microfibers you shouldn't have to worry about adding and swirls back in or marring your paint. Never have had any problems with adding problems back into the paint with an IPA using quality microfibers. It's your best chance of optimum bonding
 
I see a F150 in your pic which is known for harder paint systems and clear coat. My experience may be anecdotal but with my soft Japanese Acura nighthawk black pearl, it's very very easy to reintroduce new swirls and scratches into the paint by just looking at it the wrong way. Plus the IPA softens the clear coat even further. Read the miscible and immiscible article by Mike Phillips. If I had a harder clear coat on my personal car, I wouldn't hesitate to do an IPA wipedown.
 
I see a F150 in your pic which is known for harder paint systems and clear coat. My experience may be anecdotal but with my soft Japanese Acura nighthawk black pearl, it's very very easy to reintroduce new swirls and scratches into the paint by just looking at it the wrong way. Plus the IPA softens the clear coat even further. Read the miscible and immiscible article by Mike Phillips. If I had a harder clear coat on my personal car, I wouldn't hesitate to do an IPA wipedown.

I've done multiple Acuras and Hondas (which are the same manufacturer) and used my same process on them as a Ford or mercury and never had problems. You seem to have a back up to all your questions to why did you even ask it? Just curious
 
I don't like using IPA for wipe downs either. It's not strong enough most of the time to remove durable fillers and it can be grabby. I use GTechniq Panel Wipe to strip any oils/fillers. It's not grabby, very potent, yet paint safe. Strong solvent smell, though. Menzerna polishes contain a lot of polishing oils. Unless you do a wipe down on a test spot with a paint stripper, you'll never know the true polishing results. Polishing oils definitely mask the true results.
 
I've done multiple Acuras and Hondas (which are the same manufacturer) and used my same process on them as a Ford or mercury and never had problems. You seem to have a back up to all your questions to why did you even ask it? Just curious

Sorry, didn't mean to sound abrasive in my response. I didn't really have a question in particular, was just looking for technique critique but it appears that the pad design is the culprit for generating so much dust.
 
Sorry, didn't mean to sound abrasive in my response. I didn't really have a question in particular, was just looking for technique critique but it appears that the pad design is the culprit for generating so much dust.
haha you are fine. I would say so as well. My flat pads dont dust nearly at all now to come to think of it. I would have not have thought about the pad until someone said so. It does make sense though
 
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