Modesta Glass Coatings

Since this is a newer product, where r yall getting ur info? Its not like a forum search on autogeek turns up alot of info.

Zmcgovern- for instance, how do u know about the ir light?

Ty
 
I had my local detailer install the Modesta on my car about two weeks ago. The IR light is needed for it to fully cure properly as per Modesta. My detailer emailed Modesta directly to order from their us vendor.



Since this is a newer product, where r yall getting ur info? Its not like a forum search on autogeek turns up alot of info.

Zmcgovern- for instance, how do u know about the ir light?

Ty
 
Since this is a newer product, where r yall getting ur info? Its not like a forum search on autogeek turns up alot of info.

Zmcgovern- for instance, how do u know about the ir light?

Ty


I have the application instructions from Modesta on all their coatings, Primer, and a comparison sheet. It does mention IR light for curing, but list it as "optional".

9. [OPTIONAL STEP]: Cure the layer with an infrared lamp at 50-60 °C for 10-15 minutes.
The infrared drying process will add additional strength, resistance and durability to the
layer.
 
McGovern point taken this coating is not one you would sell to everyone. There is a large market for this product in Houston due to the amount of high end cars with people willing to spend/ invest in a coating.

could be wrong but Opti coat pro for a full vehicle,lens, glass, rims is about $50-75 in product ( guessing). The modesta will run you 125-150 more is cost per car plus your added profit. That's not too bad. You will also need IR lights to cure the bc5 correctly ( I don't think you need the lights for bc3 ) so that is an added cost that you would have to factor in over the lights lifespan.

The real question is if it worth the extra money=) I am looking forward to your test to see if I pissed it away or made the right move. The added protection and less hassle may not be proportional to the added cost but if it leads the pack I will be happy regardless of cost. In my case I wanted the best. Some may want the most cost effective.

Keep us informed! Maybe we can prod you to do the test before the spring?

There is also added application and cure time required with Modesta as the Primer needs to set for 3hrs prior to coating, though the Primer is an optional step. IR Lamp is also listed as Optional for both BC-03 and BC-05.

Modesta 24hr cure to OCP 1hr cure. This could be a big deal for some installers, others not so much.

11. After application leave to cure for at least 24 hours. Keep away from rain and dirt during
this period.
 
this tempered glass screen protector I bought mentions a hardness of 9H being equivalent with steel, if that helps anyone.
^They list a hardness of 1565BHN (brinell hardness number). This is equivalent to specialized hardened steel. Mild steel is closer to 120BHN. As far as I know, Brinnel Hardness is not comparable to Pencil Hardness test therefore I am not certain how they determined that 9H is equivalent to 1565BHN.

McGovern point taken this coating is not one you would sell to everyone. There is a large market for this product in Houston due to the amount of high end cars with people willing to spend/ invest in a coating.

could be wrong but Opti coat pro for a full vehicle,lens, glass, rims is about $50-75 in product ( guessing). The modesta will run you 125-150 more is cost per car plus your added profit. That's not too bad. You will also need IR lights to cure the bc5 correctly ( I don't think you need the lights for bc3 ) so that is an added cost that you would have to factor in over the lights lifespan.

The real question is if it worth the extra money=) I am looking forward to your test to see if I pissed it away or made the right move. The added protection and less hassle may not be proportional to the added cost but if it leads the pack I will be happy regardless of cost. In my case I wanted the best. Some may want the most cost effective.

Keep us informed! Maybe we can prod you to do the test before the spring?
^As Chad mentioned.. IR lights are completely optional.

Also - I am hoping to be able to test some products out by the Summer, but to be completely honest... I doubt I'll have time to get around to it given my current waiting list of customers.

Since this is a newer product, where r yall getting ur info? Its not like a forum search on autogeek turns up alot of info.

Zmcgovern- for instance, how do u know about the ir light?

Ty
^It is all on the Modesta USA site, then click on the customer login zone on the upper right corner. Once you are registered, you can find product cost, info, install instructions, etc.

I had my local detailer install the Modesta on my car about two weeks ago. The IR light is needed for it to fully cure properly as per Modesta. My detailer emailed Modesta directly to order from their us vendor.
^As Chad said - IR lights are listed as optional by the Modesta instruction guide.

I have the application instructions from Modesta on all their coatings, Primer, and a comparison sheet. It does mention IR light for curing, but list it as "optional".
^What he said
 
This is great info guys. I got a login for the site, and started checking out prices etc.
I appreciate the insight, like mcgovern said, i have to also wait until the spring.
there is alot more for me to learn, so thank you

keep me posted
 
@zmcgovern45 What do you think we be the best to wash the car with; ONR & Shine or ONR & wax? I am am somewhat hesitant to put a wax on the coating. I know it will protect it but i don’t think i will get the same hyro.... properties with the wash and wax. What are your thoughts?

I would finish up the detail with the M1 Shot QD spray.

Thanks.


 
@zmcgovern45 What do you think we be the best to wash the car with; ONR & Shine or ONR & wax? I am am somewhat hesitant to put a wax on the coating. I know it will protect it but i don’t think i will get the same hyro.... properties with the wash and wax. What are your thoughts?



I would finish up the detail with the M1 Shot QD spray.



Thanks.


So again, I have no experience with Modesta, but in general, If I do rinseless washes, I prefer to wash my own car with ONR and I will apply CarPro reload for added protection.

HydrO2 also works great on top of coatings from my experience.

I have never used ONRWW because it just doesn't appeal to me.
 
So again, I have no experience with Modesta, but in general, If I do rinseless washes, I prefer to wash my own car with ONR and I will apply CarPro reload for added protection.

HydrO2 also works great on top of coatings from my experience.

I have never used ONRWW because it just doesn't appeal to me.


Isn't reload a bit expensive for that purpose? Before this after ONR I really like Permanon on my Opti Coat. But still I find it too expensive as a topper. End up I just using OID now, which the slickness and shine is there. Tried CG V7 too, a nice product but just not cost effective even for the gallon, it is not concentrate like the OID to be mixed a few more gallons out of it.

But yea I know, it's totally different feeling of touch and shine.
 
Isn't reload a bit expensive for that purpose? Before this after ONR I really like Permanon on my Opti Coat. But still I find it too expensive as a topper. End up I just using OID now, which the slickness and shine is there. Tried CG V7 too, a nice product but just not cost effective even for the gallon, it is not concentrate like the OID to be mixed a few more gallons out of it.

But yea I know, it's totally different feeling of touch and shine.


It takes very little Reload to cover an entire vehicle. I use it on my own vehicles and customer cars and am still on my first bottle.

Sonax Brilliant Shine Detailer is another great product that is cheaper, but provides amazing hydrophobic properties. (Just posted an article on DI AAP blog about this product)

I prefer both of these over V7.
 
Washed the car for the first time... the foam gun was a bit of a joke... the suds dripped right off in less than a min. When washing the car with a lamps wood mit the soap slid right past the paint and on to the ground faster then i could scrub. don't know if i should be happy about that or not. I need some type of lube when i am washing! Very happy so far. I am having one of our other cars BC-5 coated today.
 
Washed the car for the first time... the foam gun was a bit of a joke... the suds dripped right off in less than a min. When washing the car with a lamps wood mit the soap slid right past the paint and on to the ground faster then i could scrub. don't know if i should be happy about that or not. I need some type of lube when i am washing! Very happy so far. I am having one of our other cars BC-5 coated today.


I find that I have this problem with my fresh coatings like CQ, CQUK, OC. They are so good at shedding dirt & water that is foam and wash solution doesn't "cling" as well. It is an interesting problem. To solve this I will foam and rinse to get the majority of the dirt off; then do a std 2BW to get all the rest.

 

I find that I have this problem with my fresh coatings like CQ, CQUK, OC. They are so good at shedding dirt & water that is foam and wash solution doesn't "cling" as well. It is an interesting problem. To solve this I will foam and rinse to get the majority of the dirt off; then do a std 2BW to get all the rest.


It is a problem which has been solved. Most of the wash products which detailers use, whether they try to dress it with fancy words or not, are based on the same technology that has been about for decades. These new coating need a different approach and I'm not sure anyone has grabbed that concept yet, potentially due to the added cost associated.
 
It is a problem which has been solved. Most of the wash products which detailers use, whether they try to dress it with fancy words or not, are based on the same technology that has been about for decades. These new coating need a different approach and I'm not sure anyone has grabbed that concept yet, potentially due to the added cost associated.


Please explain as I am very interested. Doing a proper wash is very important to me.

 

Please explain as I am very interested. Doing a proper wash is very important to me.


The normal wash products are almost all variations on a handful of surfactants and alkaline additives. I have discussed elsewhere about the similarities to other products. The whole lot breaks down the surface tension and lets you wet the soiling to facilitate its removal. With the new coatings, the traditional surfactants are not enough, especially when used at extreme dilutions. If the wash solution clearly beads up on the lsp, it is not up to the job. There are multiple solutions to this but almost always require either much more advanced (expensive) components or much higher concentrations. We have products that work but, so far, there hasn't been interest from the detailing sector. I guess the trouble is that it is a tough sell for a product which fundamentally does the same job as a traditional product. Yes, it does it much better but most people will not realise that there is actually a problem with the old product.
 
Since the soap came right off, wouldnt most of the dirt do the same since it wont adhere to the car any more?

Appreciate the updates!
 
Last Jan. I fully polished a black hood on a Ford Ranger that wore factory paint. I divided the hood into quarters and coated each quarter with a different coating. The four are Modesta, 22PLE, Opti Pro, regular Cquartz (not finest) No instructions where given to the vehicle owner on care or maintenance. There were coatings that were noticeably glossier than the others. 6 months into the test there was no change in appearance. Very light swirls were consistence across each coating. I plan on checking on the panel sometime very soon for gloss and durability.
 
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