Need more cut (MF Pad + M105), or just live with some scratches?

mdgrwl

mdgrwl

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I took the day off work today to work on my Audi. I did a test spot with FG400 and an orange pad, no dice, still scratches. I then hit it with a Meguiars MF Cutting pad & D300 with some M105 mixed in - then straight M105... still scratches.

I don't have any wool pads, but is that my next option or should I look into another compound? Woulda thought FG400 or M105 would of been enough.

At this point, I think I'm just going to have to live with some scratches I guess. I finished out with SF4000 and a Crimson pad. The paint looks miles better... but all these little trace scratches suck. :(

I could of chased after each and every one and wet sanded them out... but I didn't want to take a 10 hour job and turn it into a 15 hour + job.

Any thoughts... and man this paint is harder then I thought.
 
Well if it was me I would leave them be cause you don't want to do more harm than whats already there that said if you had an inspection lens you may could look into those defects, and see which ones are worse than the others and then you would know which could be buff out of filled with touch up but for the time begin just live with it till you get more free time
 
Stop looking for more aggressive polishes and pads. Wet sanding is much safer, faster, and effective.
 
Are you working with a DA or a rotary?

Try shrinking down the size of the section you work in with M-105.

Wool on rotary is my first step when working on that paint. It's rediculous how hard it is, isn't it?

Wool pad on a DA won't work on it, stick with your MF pad and work in a 12" squared work section at a time.
 
Wet sand with 2000 then 3000 trizact!! Hit wit classic cut on MF cutting pad with Rupes Bigfoot 21 then follow with classic polish with orange pad!! Bingo then a sealant or wax of your choice!!
 
First off, do you have a paint depth gauge? If not do NOT try to remove the scratches 100% because you may burn through, also if it isn't a show car does it really matter if you have some scratches left over? Just my .02 learn to live with scratches they aren't as bad as swirls.
 
Just wondering, is this your daily driver and is it garage parked? What machine are you using?

and yes +1 on HD.Detailing's Comment.

Either way, good luck

Art
 
Thanks for the feedback guys.

Using a DA. Its a daily driver, I put 100 miles on her a day.

I guess Im just a bit dissapointed because for some reason I thought my paint was softer then it is from previous spot hits. Then I go over the entire car with a fairly aggressive combo and its still far from perfect.

I guess I was just expecting too much...
 
Black2014Q60 said:
What does wet sanding do compared to using pads and polish? --- newb here!
Click to expand...

Wet sanding is much safer because it generates almost zero heat...clearcoats do not like heat. It leaves the surface completely flat, and it works very quickly.
 
Leave the scratches!!! You'll burn through before you know it.


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What color Audi?

What DA machine?

Is it possible the paint is actually really soft rather than really hard and your process is actually doing more harm than good? Might be since sf4000 finished out relatively well as you said. Not all Audi paint is hard...


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ekennett said:
What color Audi?

What DA machine?

Is it possible the paint is actually really soft rather than really hard and your process is actually doing more harm than good?
Click to expand...

PC DA.

No, not possible.

I did a 50/50 test on my trunk lid and initially had plans of using an orange LC pad and FG400, but when that didnt cut enough I pulled out the Microfiber Cut Pad and D300. Then MF and M105. The 50/50 showed that I got the swirls and fine scratches out, but the deeper ones remained.

I then did a 5050 of that section to make sure SF4000 would clear up the haze left behind, and it did very well.

So from this, I concluded my clear coat is just hard... and if I wanted to get every last scratch, I would have my work cut out for me.

I finished up today coating with CQUK. Came out great, but the deeper scratches are what they are. Maybe next time Ill consider a 3 step process starting from a wool pad... or maybe get nutz and try Scholl S0 or S2 compound. There are far too many and are all over... I wouldnt even try to wetsand. Id have to wetsand the entire panel...
 
^ Yes I truly wish I had something more aggressive on hand... surbuf, LC Thin Wool or a Carpro Cool Wool pad would of been much better... oh well, now I know.

When you think a microfiber cutting pad is the most aggressive you'll need, think again.
 
aim4squirrels said:
Does Audi use a cerami-clear type paint?
Click to expand...

No idea... all I know is M105 + MF cutting pad cut out the swirls but there are still plenty of scratches still there that bug me. I can see in 3 months or so pulling out a wool pad.
 
adam (o.c. detailing from raleigh/durham, NC) use to post on here, i'm sure he probably still visits. anyways, here is an example of what a GG6, 5.5" surbuf pad & m105 can do...

[video=youtube_share;mNKEbTJdQIc"]2007 Infinity Q56 Test Spot and O.C.Detailing plug! - YouTube[/video]
 
Have you tried your fg400 with a mf cutting pad? I think fg400 is more aggressive than m105. Sometimes deeper scratches needs more than 1 set of section passes to clear.
 
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