Total Swirl free wash, is this possible?

SL%%

SL%%

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Hi, noob here nad just wondering if indeed there is such a thing as total swirl free wash?

I currently have the ff:

A Michelin Pressure Washer
Washmitt
Two - Bucket method with Grit Guard
A separate bucket for wheels
A Leaf Blower
Jellyblade
Meguiars Gold Class Shampoo....
Foam thing that you attach at the garden hose (Coming Soon)

So this is what I do...

1.) I use the pressure washer to rinse off dirt as much as possible

2.) With the two Bucket, I start on the roof then front windshield, rinse the wash mitt with water, soak it with the soap solution (another bucket) rinse the are I just did.

3.) the hood, rinse the wash mitt with water, soak it with the soap solution (another bucket) rinse the are I just did.

4.) side front panels (on one side) rinse the wash mitt with water, soak it with the soap solution (another bucket) rinse the are I just did.

5.) the other front side panel, rinse the wash mitt with water, soak it with the soap solution (another bucket) rinse the are I just did.

6.) one door at a time, rinse the wash mitt with water, soak it with the soap solution (another bucket) rinse the are I just did, so this procedure is X 4

7.) Trunk alone, rinse the wash mitt with water, soak it with the soap solution (another bucket) rinse the are I just did.

8.) rear bumper, rinse the wash mitt with water, soak it with the soap solution (another bucket) rinse the are I just did.

9.) front bumper, rinse the wash mitt with water, soak it with the soap solution (another bucket) rinse the are I just did.

10.) Sheat technique to pool the water together.

11.) excess water I use jellyblade.

12.) rest of water is blasted by using a dedicated leaf blower.... literally don't use any microfiber for drying....

am I doing the right thing? seems like I still see light swirls after how many wash... sorry just a noob....
 
I think what your referring to is the brush stroke swirls left from the dealership idiot. Here's what I like to do,
I begin with one bucket solely for tires and rims, included is a wash mitt and a small soft brush I keep a stiff brush on stand by for whitewalls.
Spray as much dirt from wheel and wheelwell, use Ur selected degreaser I like pro blue. Soak tire and rim.. use your wash mitt to scrub thoroughly. Then I use a small brush to get behind the rim as much as possible.
After that I do the engine while its running then use air nozzle to help dry.
Then I open one door at a time carefully not to soak the inside. Spray, scrub, rinse.
Then I use a bug remover and light douse the entire vehicle.. I use a little yellow sponge to scrub bugs and Windows. Rinsing frequently.
Then I begin solely the roof alone down to bottom of the Windows. Keep your mitt WELL lubricated and clean. After the top is I START on the hood bc that's priority in my book, working back and forth not in circles to avoid swirl like scratches if your leaving any.. moving around the vehicle one section around at a time down. Try 3 sections a. Top b. Middle side panels and hood/trunk. C. Very bottom. Bc u can be more agressive on the vehicle down there.
As far as drying I NEVER use a squeegee it'll scratch the hell out of your whip. get yourself a WIZARDS water bandit. It kicks ass for me with as little marring as possible bc after I rinse I shower the car with wax as u dry and hit it with some soft towels. Don't touch it with actual waxes until its totally dry.

Sent from my PC36100 using AG Online
 
PaYnTwZRd said:
I think what your referring to is the brush stroke swirls left from the dealership idiot. Here's what I like to do,
I begin with one bucket solely for tires and rims, included is a wash mitt and a small soft brush I keep a stiff brush on stand by for whitewalls.
Spray as much dirt from wheel and wheelwell, use Ur selected degreaser I like pro blue. Soak tire and rim.. use your wash mitt to scrub thoroughly. Then I use a small brush to get behind the rim as much as possible.
After that I do the engine while its running then use air nozzle to help dry.
Then I open one door at a time carefully not to soak the inside. Spray, scrub, rinse.
Then I use a bug remover and light douse the entire vehicle.. I use a little yellow sponge to scrub bugs and Windows. Rinsing frequently.
Then I begin solely the roof alone down to bottom of the Windows. Keep your mitt WELL lubricated and clean. After the top is I START on the hood bc that's priority in my book, working back and forth not in circles to avoid swirl like scratches if your leaving any.. moving around the vehicle one section around at a time down. Try 3 sections a. Top b. Middle side panels and hood/trunk. C. Very bottom. Bc u can be more agressive on the vehicle down there.
As far as drying I NEVER use a squeegee it'll scratch the hell out of your whip. get yourself a WIZARDS water bandit. It kicks ass for me with as little marring as possible bc after I rinse I shower the car with wax as u dry and hit it with some soft towels. Don't touch it with actual waxes until its totally dry.

Sent from my PC36100 using AG Online
Click to expand...

Gotta love a good wash

Sent from my PC36100 using AG Online
 
SL%% said:
Hi, noob here nad just wondering if indeed there is such a thing as total swirl free wash?
Click to expand...


I'm still trying to figure out how to say your forum nickname? :dunno:


Posted this yesterday for another member...


Just make sure when you move the mitt over the paint you don't SCRUB the paint with zillions of passes.

If this paint is polished and waxed it should only take one or two passes of a wash mitt to loosen any surface dirt so it can be washed off. The fresh coat of wax makes dirt come off easy.

Now if there is dirt on the surface and you make lots and lots of passes with the wash mitt the you'll loosen the dirt and scrub it against the paint and end up with washing swirls and scratches.

I talk about this in my how-to book. There's a section on washing cars and how most people, (not saying you're one of them), but how most people don't THINK when they wash their car the just go through the motions and too often they go through too many motions if you know what I mean.


:props:
 
PaYnTwZRd said:
I think what your referring to is the brush stroke swirls left from the dealership idiot. Here's what I like to do,
I begin with one bucket solely for tires and rims, included is a wash mitt and a small soft brush I keep a stiff brush on stand by for whitewalls.
Spray as much dirt from wheel and wheelwell, use Ur selected degreaser I like pro blue. Soak tire and rim.. use your wash mitt to scrub thoroughly. Then I use a small brush to get behind the rim as much as possible.
After that I do the engine while its running then use air nozzle to help dry.
Then I open one door at a time carefully not to soak the inside. Spray, scrub, rinse.
Then I use a bug remover and light douse the entire vehicle.. I use a little yellow sponge to scrub bugs and Windows. Rinsing frequently.
Then I begin solely the roof alone down to bottom of the Windows. Keep your mitt WELL lubricated and clean. After the top is I START on the hood bc that's priority in my book, working back and forth not in circles to avoid swirl like scratches if your leaving any.. moving around the vehicle one section around at a time down. Try 3 sections a. Top b. Middle side panels and hood/trunk. C. Very bottom. Bc u can be more agressive on the vehicle down there.
As far as drying I NEVER use a squeegee it'll scratch the hell out of your whip. get yourself a WIZARDS water bandit. It kicks ass for me with as little marring as possible bc after I rinse I shower the car with wax as u dry and hit it with some soft towels. Don't touch it with actual waxes until its totally dry.

Sent from my PC36100 using AG Online
Click to expand...


wow so its my jellyblade that's been causing the marring all these time? I though that's a tool safe to use???
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I'm still trying to figure out how to say your forum nickname? :dunno:


Posted this yesterday for another member...


Just make sure when you move the mitt over the paint you don't SCRUB the paint with zillions of passes.

If this paint is polished and waxed it should only take one or two passes of a wash mitt to loosen any surface dirt so it can be washed off. The fresh coat of wax makes dirt come off easy.

Now if there is dirt on the surface and you make lots and lots of passes with the wash mitt the you'll loosen the dirt and scrub it against the paint and end up with washing swirls and scratches.

I talk about this in my how-to book. There's a section on washing cars and how most people, (not saying you're one of them), but how most people don't THINK when they wash their car the just go through the motions and too often they go through too many motions if you know what I mean.


:props:
Click to expand...


Hi Mike, thanks for the info, yes I just do a single pass then rinse the wash mitt then soak it up with shampoo solution then pass again. I never use one side of the wash mitt twice....

yes I do have your e-book but then nothing beat hands on experience....

is it a bad idea to use a squeegee to run off excess water?
 
This is another great reason to apply a coating...it makes washing and maintaining an absolute breeze...NOTHING...I mean NOTHING so far can equal the ease of washing (and thus the elimination of swirls) like a coated car in my opinion. You have to experience it to appreciate what I'm talking about.
 
SL%% said:
Hi Mike, thanks for the info, yes I just do a single pass then rinse the wash mitt then soak it up with shampoo solution then pass again. I never use one side of the wash mitt twice....

yes I do have your e-book but then nothing beat hands on experience....

is it a bad idea to use a squeegee to run off excess water?
Click to expand...


I don't like to use them personally on anything with nice finish. I don't like the idea of risking instilling a scratch if any type of abrasive particle, not rinsed off, gets trapped between the blade and the paint.

You have no sense of feel for the particle and you could put a healthy scratch in the paint.

That's just me though and for cars with a *nice* finish.

Now if I was doing production detailing or production car washing or production boat washing or RV washing where there's no concern about risk because the finish on the types of rigs I'm working on are already filled with swirls and scratches then no problemo...


Again, that's just my take on it lots of guy love and swear by blades for getting the water off a car quickly.


:)
 
SL%% said:
is it a bad idea to use a squeegee to run off excess water?
Click to expand...

I would say yes. Any type of blade like that can has a potential of adding swirls or marring. Dragging any device like that across the paint would give me pause. I've marred soft paint in the past with a soft MF towel, I can't imagine using a silicone blade.

When I was looking at your list or parts/supplies it was the Jelly Blade that immediately stuck out to me.

I would sheet the water over all the pannels, blow off the excess with the leaf blower and then dab up the remaining spots with a soft MF towel.
 
The only way to not introduce swirls or marring is by not touching the paint. So once your paint is at the level of correction you want, apply a high quality LSP. Then for maintenance washes, do "touchless" washes. Foam (I use a PW), power rinse, free flow rinse, dry with blower (I use Metro). If you don't touch the paint, you don't induce any defects. As others have said, if it is "coated", this type of wash is great!
 
The squeegee is something I would trash. IMO more chances of scratching. I have Mike's book and it is true, THINK about the technique. I have changed my whole way of thinking and even though my washing technique is longer, I no-longer worry about any scratches.

IMO your technique is sound, just get rid of the squeegee. I would use the leaf blower and WW MF Towel IN PLACE of the squeegee. Again, my opinion.
 
I agree 1000% with silverfox/fly07sti.

1. coat it
2. use touchless washes
3. dry with blower or dab/pat dry with 70-30% WW
 
jmsc said:
I agree 1000% with silverfox/fly07sti.



1. coat it

2. use touchless washes

3. dry with blower or dab/pat dry with 70-30% WW
Click to expand...


For step 3, just use the blower. If you try to use a towel to dry it you risk picking up particles left after you rinse it off.

I don't towel dry one unless it's been hand washed.
 
silverfox said:
This is another great reason to apply a coating...it makes washing and maintaining an absolute breeze...NOTHING...I mean NOTHING so far can equal the ease of washing (and thus the elimination of swirls) like a coated car in my opinion. You have to experience it to appreciate what I'm talking about.
Click to expand...

Friend, if you say coating, what do you exactly mean? Waxes?
 
jmsc said:
I agree 1000% with silverfox/fly07sti.

1. coat it
2. use touchless washes
3. dry with blower or dab/pat dry with 70-30% WW
Click to expand...

touchless washes? what do u mean by this? sorry, total noob
 
SL%% said:
Friend, if you say coating, what do you exactly mean? Waxes?
Click to expand...


You came here for a drink of water and we turned on the fire hose.

Coatings are a type of last step protection (lsp); waxes and sealants fall into this category as well. Coatings differ in that they typically last a very long time (years rather than weeks or months) and essentially act as another layer of clearcoat on your paint, with enhanced hydrophobic behavior and in some cases chemical an abrasive resistance.
 
SL%% said:
wow so its my jellyblade that's been causing the marring all these time? I though that's a tool safe to use???
Click to expand...

The blade will not damage the paint by itself. The problem occurs if ANY dirt is left on the paint after washing. You are almost garanteed to have missed some and when that dirt is trapped between the paint and the water blade, all it can do is scratch anything it is rubbed against. The same problem occurs with a shamee.

To dry paint, there are only 2 things I would use: Forced air and/or microfiber drying towel.

To reduce the chances of maring the paint during the drying process, use spray wax.
 
SL%%:

touchless examples...foaming, power washes, nozzle-attached or
nozzle-free water washes are a few ways to perform touchless washes. but, to get the maximum performance out of TW start with a coating on your car.
 
jmsc said:
SL%%:

touchless examples...foaming, power washes, nozzle-attached or
nozzle-free water washes are a few ways to perform touchless washes. but, to get the maximum performance out of TW start with a coating on your car.
Click to expand...


Add "Touchless" Car Washes that do not have brushes to the list.

Sometimes they may be the only option, when it is too cold to get out the hose and your car has significant build-up of road salts, etc.
 
SL%% said:
touchless washes? what do u mean by this? sorry, total noob
Click to expand...

Sorry I didn't break it down enough. I put in my original post the steps, but let me break it down a little more. Hope this helps.

1- use foaming device (foam gun or foam cannon) and spray your vehicle with the foam/water and let it dwell for a couple of minutes.
2-rinse with spray nozzle or power wash rinse. Then do a free flowing rinse (just hose without and spray nozzle)
3-use compressed air, or some sort of a leaf blower device (I rec. Metro blaster) to dry off the car.
4-touchless=nothing touches the vehicle other than water, soap and forced air.
 
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