My first correction -- Questions

[royalkangaroo]

This weekend I decided to embark on my first paint correction with my new GG6. I stocked up with a variety of 5.5" and 4" LC flat foam pads (associated 5" and 3.5" BPs), and the whole meguiars ultimate line. (Compound, polish, and liquid wax). Vehicle: my semi-neglected 2010 Silverado.

After reading countless hours on these forums I decided to do the following common procedure
1. Full wash
2. Clay
2.5 Tape off all trim
3. Megs UC with orange LC flat pad (speed 5)
4. Megs UP with white LC flat pad (speed 4)
5. Megs ULC with black LC flat pad (speed 2.5)

I did use a 4" yellow LC flat pad with UC on the door frames and tight front bumper spots. Not sure if I really could notice that much difference on finish between the orange and yellow.

Overall experience:
I noticed all of the pads generated a lot of heat. At first I'd do a small area (less than 2' x 2') towel off the UC, inspect my work, sip a beer, etc. However I did 3 sections, back to back to back and ended up melting my 5" meguiars backing plate. No different methods, speed 5, moderate pressure, moderate arm speed, 6 section passes. Not sure what caused this. I primed the pad accordingly, used 3 dime sized drops of product per section. (Not section pass) cleaned on the fly, etc. Any thoughts on this would help.

Ultimate polish was a lot smoother to work with. The white pad seemed to get hot as well, but no issues like the UC stage. I wasnt sure if the UP step was necessary. In my mind the paint looked deeper, but overall UC to ULP mightve been appropriate.

ULC layed down extremely thin via polisher. Almost to the point where I couldn't see it. The black pad seemed to consume a lot of product initially, even with priming. However some passes seemed like there was a lot of product being layed down. Seemed tricky to work with, I'm more used to turtle wax paste by hand.

In the end, I think my paint still could've used a more aggressive compound to pull out more scratches (or more aggressive pad as well). I was going to go the M105/M205 route, however the feedback and ease of use for UC/UP seemed to fit my entry-level experience. My truck is also my daily driver / boat hauler / deer carrier / everything else under the sun, so by no means was I expecting to achieve show quality.

Seems long-winded but please let me know of any feedback you folks may have, I'd appreciate it.

Hood before:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a214/bobmarley2005/Mobile%20Uploads/FullSizeRender-2_zpshmalnlae.jpg (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/bobmarley2005/media/Mobile%20Uploads/FullSizeRender-2_zpshmalnlae.jpg.html)

Bedside scratches before:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a214/bobmarley2005/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1368-1_zpszvifuhga.jpg (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/bobmarley2005/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1368-1_zpszvifuhga.jpg.html)

Hood after correction:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a214/bobmarley2005/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1383-1_zpsgn6sxubn.jpg (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/bobmarley2005/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1383-1_zpsgn6sxubn.jpg.html)

Finish 1:http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a214/bobmarley2005/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1384-1_zpsrhfwukov.jpg (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/bobmarley2005/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1384-1_zpsrhfwukov.jpg.html)

Finish 2:http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a214/bobmarley2005/Mobile%20Uploads/FullSizeRender-1_zpshl1rueqp.jpg (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/bobmarley2005/media/Mobile%20Uploads/FullSizeRender-1_zpshl1rueqp.jpg.html)

[WaxMaster1]

Great work. That hood is a money shot for sure

[Mittenz]

Excellent job!

[Mantilgh]

Yeah, from that sun shot it looks like it turned out great.

I am new to machine polishing and messed up one pad on my first try after getting a little to comfortable with it. Happened quick too. I had decided to work one particularly messed up area a little extra and at a really slow arm speed. When I went to clean the pad after I noticed it was sunken in the middle and hot.

Same pad, different compound, different machine.

I have not used Meg's Ultimate Comp, and am not positive; but three dime sized drops might have been too much leading to the pad being over saturated. A saturated pad will retain more heat. I think three pea sized dots is what I have read is about the right amount, but this also may be pad and product dependent.

I also cannot tell much difference in results between the orange and yellow, but may only be more noticeable on soft paint

Once again, great job on a big project!

[royalkangaroo]

Thanks guys, I figured the truck would be easy with large flat panels, but man oh man is there a lot of surface area. My body is paying for it today.

By the way, I reference ULC or ULP above, I mean ULW.

[RFrommann]

great job!

[expdetailing]

It is helpful to touch the center of the pad and keep an account of how hot the pad is getting.
BTW, very nice looking truck. The color of the paint is sharp too.
Congratulations on completing your first paint correction. Now the real question is, whose vehicle are you doing next?

[ski2]

Truck looks great!!! When compounding I use 3 sets of 2 pads--use pad 1 for a couple of sections, then clean on the fly and set it asside to cool while I use pad 2--continue alternating between pad 1 & 2. Then switch to pads 3 & 4 and so on. Never melted a pad let alone a backing plate. For polishing usually 4 pads are enough for an entire car, but still keep alternating to allow for cooling.

[royalkangaroo]

Yeah, from that sun shot it looks like it turned out great.

I am new to machine polishing and messed up one pad on my first try after getting a little to comfortable with it. Happened quick too. I had decided to work one particularly messed up area a little extra and at a really slow arm speed. When I went to clean the pad after I noticed it was sunken in the middle and hot.

Same pad, different compound, different machine.

I have not used Meg's Ultimate Comp, and am not positive; but three dime sized drops might have been too much leading to the pad being over saturated. A saturated pad will retain more heat. I think three pea sized dots is what I have read is about the right amount, but this also may be pad and product dependent.

I also cannot tell much difference in results between the orange and yellow, but may only be more noticeable on soft paint

Once again, great job on a big project!

I agree, over saturation could have been an issue. I typically used 3 pea-dime size drops on the outer edge of the pad for each panel. It seemed to me the edges of the pad looked dry after completing a section, and the middle still had product in it. Even so, after 5-6 section passes, I was nervous of running the pad too dry.

Then again, seeing how thin UP and ULW works, less product with UC may be beneficial.


It is helpful to touch the center of the pad and keep an account of how hot the pad is getting.
BTW, very nice looking truck. The color of the paint is sharp too.
Congratulations on completing your first paint correction. Now the real question is, whose vehicle are you doing next?

The pad face and panels never seemed to be overly hot. Heat really built up behind the pad on the felt/velcro interface. I actually removed pads occasionally when taking a break to let the BP and pad cool faster.

Thanks for the kudos too, I'm a big fan of that color.

Next project is a black Mercedes C300 sport. It's got some water spots and swirls, but not quite the level of defects as my truck had. I may try the polish first and go UC if necessary. I'm sure black paint will be a whole different challenge.

[royalkangaroo]

Truck looks great!!! When compounding I use 3 sets of 2 pads--use pad 1 for a couple of sections, then clean on the fly and set it asside to cool while I use pad 2--continue alternating between pad 1 & 2. Then switch to pads 3 & 4 and so on. Never melted a pad let alone a backing plate. For polishing usually 4 pads are enough for an entire car, but still keep alternating to allow for cooling.


That's smart. I used one pad during the first half of compounding. (Cleaning on the fly as well) Again, slower, learning as I go. I started moving section to section quicker with the second pad as it was getting late and I felt I had a rhythm going. But that's when I noticed the melting.

Next time I'll have more pads in my arsenal and change them more frequently. Thanks for the tip!

[Sicoupe]

outstanding job! looks great.

[WRAPT C5Z06]

First time? Outstanding! :props:

[shagnat]

I'm scared to death to do correction on my car..... afraid I'm really going to mess up pads that aren't cheap.
How do you know if a pad is getting too hot or if it's over saturated or under saturated? Sorry for the nooB question, I just wanna' not ruin my equipment.

[Burnt350]

Did you use an extension cord? Make sure the gauge is correct. I use a 50' 12 Gauge and it makes my PC run cooler. At first I had it running through an electrical Y Adapter and it got super hot and destroyed a white polishing pad.

Another good pointer is to make a few vertical sharpie marks on the yellow edge of your backing plate. This helps you visually know your pad is rotating properly.

[royalkangaroo]

I'm scared to death to do correction on my car..... afraid I'm really going to mess up pads that aren't cheap.
How do you know if a pad is getting too hot or if it's over saturated or under saturated? Sorry for the nooB question, I just wanna' not ruin my equipment.

It's a learning experience. This was my first go with a machine polisher. (I regularly hand wash and wax my vehicles, never gone further though) My melted pad looked sunken in the middle after a section. When I peeled it off I noticed the melting, and ended up tossing the pad. The backing plate had enough hook left to hold fresh pads.

Next time I'll try a little less product and swapping fresh pads more frequently to aid in cooling. I also noticed the 5" GG BP has holes in it to help cooling.

I'd say start slow, keep your pads and towels clean, watch/read as much info as you can and just go for it.




Did you use an extension cord? Make sure the gauge is correct. I use a 50' 12 Gauge and it makes my PC run cooler. At first I had it running through an electrical Y Adapter and it got super hot and destroyed a white polishing pad.

Another good pointer is to make a few vertical sharpie marks on the yellow edge of your backing plate. This helps you visually know your pad is rotating properly.


I was using an outdoor extension cord, 50', not exactly sure what gauge. I've got a shorter, heavier gauge one I may try next time to see if there's any difference. I was always adamant about ensuring pad rotation. I think I've got to experiment with pad saturation.