How to wet sand a car - video

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Wow!! That no doubt is the Pinnacle of all time lapse sand, cut, polish, wax & detail videos.

As usual, you're setting and raising the bar.

Awesome video Mike!!

Thanks Dave...

Even though it was a ton of work especially since I was working as fast as would be "sane", it was still fun in only the way us car guys can appreciate.

I do think this is the first time a complete wetsand, cut and buff was captured on video. At least the only thing that comes close is the time lapse video we did of the 1969 AMX last year...


1969 AMX Wetsanding Videos - Nebraska Help in the Heartland Project

1969 AMX - Wetsanded, Cut and Polished by Team Autogeek

Here are all the videos shot from when Yancy and I were in Lincoln, Nebraska for the 1969 AMX Wetsanding, cutting and buffing project called, "Helping in the Heartland".

Gets some popcorn and a cold drink as these are a lot of fun to watch as well as educational...

1969 AMX - Wetsanding How To Video - Part 1 - 30 Minutes
[video=youtube_share;_i_rmKAUa1Y"]Helping in the Heartland - episode 1 - YouTube[/video]​

Part 1: Summary
Wes introduces the story behind the AMC AMX and then shares the story behind the LS1 engine going into it. Then I introduce Ben VanEperen, the painter who we refer to as Ben #1. Ben shares the process he used to paint the AMX. Next I introduce Ben #2 aka Wors on our forum. Then I introduce Paul aka Sailfish on our forum, Paul is a professional marine craft detailer. Next I introduce Bob Eichelberg, the President of Flex Tools North America.

After the introduction we do a "Test Spot" on the hood to dial-in and prove our sanding and buffing process to make sure it works and we're not going to run into any problems. This includes,

• Hand sanding with #1000 3M Wet/Dry sandpaper - D.O.I. is explained after sanding with #1000
• Hand sanding with #1500 3M Wet/Dry sandpaper
• Machine sanding with 3M Trizact #3000 - This is called dampsanding.
• Machine sanding with 3M Trizact #5000
• Machine compound with Menzerna FG 400 with a Lake Country Wool Cutting Pad on a Flex PE14 Rotary Buffer
• Machine polishing with the Flex 3401 with a Lake Country Hybrid Polishing Pad and Menzerna SI 1500
• Machine polishing with the Flex 3401 with a Lake Country Hybrid Finishing Pad with Menzerna SF 4000

After all of the above steps the crew inspects the results.

1969 AMX - Wetsanding How To Video - Part 2 - 15 minutes
[video=youtube_share;6EBzvkVv8Mc"]Helping in the Heartland - episode 2 - YouTube[/video]​

1969 AMX - Wetsanding How To Video - Part 3 - 11 minutes
[video=youtube_share;oB56uvCasoQ"]Helping in the Heartland - episode 3 - YouTube[/video]​

1969 AMX - Wetsanding How To Video - Part 4 - 11 minutes
[video=youtube_share;a7uHDwpk9O0"]Helping in the Heartland - episode 4 - YouTube[/video]​

1969 AMX - Wetsanding How To Video - Part 5 - 10 minutes
[video=youtube_share;40Jxv_1Ohw8"]Helping in the Heartland - episode 5 - YouTube[/video]​

1969 AMX - Wetsanding How To Video - Part 6 - 11 minutes
[video=youtube_share;QsQ3nVaKrR8"]Helping in the Heartland - Episode 6 - YouTube[/video]​

1969 AMX - Wetsanding How To Video - Part 7 - 9 minutes
[video=youtube_share;YUoEMUSi_IQ"]Helping in the Heartland - episode 7 - YouTube[/video]​

Just to note however, the above project was never taken all the way through the complete process.

The Malibu I sanded and buffed I took all the way to final polish and machine waxing.

When I was done... the car was done... all caught on camera.


A good one for the old portfolio...

 

[Hoytman]

Trend: Flexible Backing Plates for Rotary Buffers

Mike,
Just FYI, and in case you haven't already been made aware of it, Wizards products makes a really flexible backing plate...one of the most flexible I've ever seen. It's not very thick though compared to the white backing plate you were using, but it's way more flexible. The Wizards backing plate is about $30 if I recall correctly.

 

[Hoytman]

What ever happened to the AMX project? I thought it as supposed to get presented to the guys son.

You'll have to forgive me if I haven't seen a thread, or lots of other threads lately. Haven't been able to spend much time on the forums over the last several months.

 

[Klasse Act]

What ever happened to the AMX project? I thought it as supposed to get presented to the guys son.

You'll have to forgive me if I haven't seen a thread, or lots of other threads lately. Haven't been able to spend much time on the forums over the last several months.

Yeah, I'd like to know more about it too!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Wes texted me a few weeks ago, told me the car was all finished and he would get me a video.

He also updated the below thread, start reading at post #37

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...videos-nebraska-help-heartland-project-4.html


Kind of small pictures.


:dunno:

 

[ghji222]

Glad to know about all the process.I am a mechanic by profession and know well about the wet sanding and done many times when modifying the cars.As you know after the whole process car look like a new one and shines very excellently.I see your pictures in the thread.Nice work done on the car.I like it.

 

[Methodical]

I'm sitting here debating whether to paint my own car and this should help if I decide to go that route.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Glad to know about all the process.

I am a mechanic by profession and know well about the wet sanding and done many times when modifying the cars. As you know after the whole process car look like a new one and shines very excellently. I see your pictures in the thread.

Nice work done on the car. I like it.

Thank you... I never recommend to anyone to try to sand, cut, polish and machine wax a car in 12 hours but that's all the time I could get away with.

I'm sitting here debating whether to paint my own car and this should help if I decide to go that route.

If you have the desire and the resources, I'd say go for it.


:xyxthumbs:

 

[glennh]

Removed all sanding marks.
For this I used the new Meguiar's M100 Pro Speed Compound with a LC Wool Cutting pad on the Flex PE14. At the time I did this project back in March of 2013 this compound had just been introduced to the market, so it was a new compound and I think this is the first car completely sanded and compounded and caught on video using M100 Pro Speed Compound. Speed on the Flex PE14 = 1000 RPM.


Removed any swirls left by the wool pad and the compounding step.
For this I used Meguiar's M205, the follow-up polish for M100 with a 6.5" Lake Country Flat Foam Polishing Pad on the Flex PE14. Speed on the Flex PE14 = 1000 RPM


Finish Polished to maximize gloss and ensure no holograms
After using the rotary buffer with the M205 I re-polished every square inch of paint using Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish with a 5.5" Lake Country Foam Flat Finishing Pad on the Porter Cable 7424XP on the 6.0 speed setting.

Great thread and video!

Warning that I'm likely to expose just how much of a novice I am with my question!

Question about the RPMs indicated when using M100 and M205. Is 1000 RPM correct?

I was under the impression that for "corrections", you wanted a high speed? When I've looked up the specs to my Griot Garage, the RPM range is 2500-6800, and when I've been using UC and M205, I've been using settings 5-6 with good results. I couldn't even get to the 1000 (well, perhaps under load) on the lowest setting. Where am I going wrong in my thoughts?

Second question, when wet sanding I'm assuming you used a higher speed?

Thanks!

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Question about the RPMs indicated when using M100 and M205. Is 1000 RPM correct?

Yes. Just because guys buffed at high RPMs in the old days doesn't mean we have to continue that practice now in the new days.

Plus M100 is formulated for low RPMs so you don't have to buff at 1500+ RPMs if you don't want to...

Remember, clear coat paints DON'T like heat.

Heat is an unwanted and unnecessary by-product of the buffing process when using quality product with a rotary buffer.

I was under the impression that for "corrections", you wanted a high speed?

There's an old say, goes like this...


"That's the way it's always been done"


I do almost all my compounding at 900 RPM which is the 2 setting on the Flex PE14. Sometimes I'll bump up to 1500 RPM on a trashed gel-coat boat.

When I've looked up the specs to my Griot Garage, the RPM range is 2500-6800, and when I've been using UC and M205, I've been using settings 5-6 with good results. I couldn't even get to the 1000 (well, perhaps under load) on the lowest setting. Where am I going wrong in my thoughts?

You're confusing RPMs with OPMs

You're confusing a direct drive tool that rotates a pad in a single direction with a tool that has a free floating spindle bearing drive mechanism that oscillates the pad in two direction.

Second question, when wet sanding I'm assuming you used a higher speed?

Thanks!

Nope.... you only use enough speed to maintain pad rotation. You don't want to turn sanding into grinding which is what you do with high speeds.

Read through this...

Damp-Sanding Tools, Tips and Techniques by Mike Phillips



Especially starting at post #5



And this...

The Free Floating Spindle Bearing Assembly - The Story Behind The Story...



What are you working on?

 

[glennh]

What are you working on?

Thanks much for the detailed answers--very helpful. I'll review those articles.

As far as what I'm working on, I'm just a DYI weekend guy sharpening skills and trying to learn. What I was currently researching was what process I wanted to use to clean up some headlights. This led to some of the sanding discussions. As I was making a list of sandpaper to purchase I ended up looking at some of the wet sanding articles and my thoughts were to make sure I was purchasing the right combination of different grit sandpaper to address any deep scratches I might have to tackle--at this time I don't have any needs/thoughts of totally wet sanding a vehicle. ...and the discussion of M100 caught my attention as well as I found myself feeling that I wasn't using M100 correctly when I was using it on some scratches that weren't coming out when using MUC or M205. So my questions were due to reviewing this thread rather than a specific situation at the moment.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

at this time I don't have any needs/thoughts of totally wet sanding a vehicle. ...and the discussion of M100 caught my attention as well as I found myself feeling that I wasn't using M100 correctly when I was using it on some scratches that weren't coming out when using MUC or M205.

So my questions were due to reviewing this thread rather than a specific situation at the moment.

Sounds good... always a good idea to do research first and then sand... (or whatever).


Meguiar's M100 Pro Speed Compound is formulated for use with wool pads on rotary buffers.

For dual action polishers mabye take a look at the M101 Foam-Cut Compound.

Also, check out this table discussion on Megs compounds....

Questions about Meguiar's M105, M101 and M100 Compounds? Watch this video!

Meguiar's M105, M101 and M100 Compounds Round Table Discussion at Autogeek with Mike Phillips
[video=youtube_share;Ugl35QexkkQ"]Meguiar's M105, M101 and M100 Compounds Round...[/video]​

Recently I had the opportunity to host a round table discussion here at Autogeek’s Show Car Garage with experts from Meguiar’s including,

Jason Rose – Technical Service Manager for Meguiar’s Professional Line.

Mike Pennington – Global Director of Training for Meguiar’s.

Steve Coronado – Marketing Product Manager for Meguiar’s Professional Line.



In this round table discussion the four of us go over the benefits, features and intended use for each of these incredibly popular cutting compounds in Meguiar's Professional Line. This includes,


M105 Ultra Cut Compound - M101 Foam Cut Compound - M100 Pro Speed Compound

The goal of this round table discussion is to hopefully remove some of the confusion surrounding the intended markets and uses for these compounds and to help you choose the right compound for your specific detailing projects.


When Meguiar’s introduced M105 it quickly set a new standard for both cut and finish quality for an aggressive compound. M105 is what is called a SMAT product, that is it uses Super Microscopic Abrasive Technology instead of old fashioned coarse “rocks in a bottle” abrasive technology or diminishing abrasive technology, (DAT).

Following the success of M105, Meguiar’s introduced M101 Foam Cut Compound in Europe where it quickly became the new hot product being talked about throughout all the popular Internet detailing discussion forums.

M101 was not originally sold in the U.S. market but due to super high customer demand Meguiar’s was prompted to introduce the popular M101 to the U. S. market.

Next Meguiar’s introduced M100 Pro Speed Compound, which like the M105 and the M101 quickly gained popularity in the refinishing industry, detailing industry and even the do-it-yourself market.


Jason, Mike, Steve and myself discuss all the differences and similarities between these three compounds as well as describe the variety of ways each compound was intended to be used along with successful non-intended ways these products are being used throughout the entire spectrum of the refinishing and reconditioning industries as well as the car hobby in general.

A lively and informative discussion that will clear up any confusing you might have as well as help you decide with compound will be the best choice for your specific paint correction and detailing needs.

Yancy Martinez, the Creative Director for Autogeek really does a spectacular job of directing and editing this video making it not only informative but simply put, fun to watch.

So grab a bowel of popcorn and your favorite cold beverage and get ready to learn more about Meguiar’s premium, top shelf compounds.


On Autogeek.net

M105 Ultra Cut Compound

M101 Foam Cut Compound

M100 Pro Speed Compound

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Can this wet sanding be done less aggressively by hand and still improve the look of factory paint?

Sorry for the late reply, I was out of town and not much time to get online....

New Autogeek TV Commercial - Behind the scenes pictures!



The answer to your question is "yes".

Remember, sanding paint is the easy part... that's putting the scratches "in".

The tricky part is getting them 100% out.



What are you working on?


A: Daily driver with factory paint?

or

B: Custom car with custom paint?

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Daily driver, 2014 accord with factory paint.
Ive recently seen what a wet sanded and polished car looks like and ive decided my car needs to look like that. Im nee to all this but the obsession is setting in strong.

I'm kind of against the idea of sanding factory paint but it's really your choice.

Here's what I would recommend, get the 3M Trizact #3000 and #5000 6" sanding discs. You can use these by hand or machine but I HIGHLY recommend for what you want to do and with your experience level to use them by machine.

Get a Porter Cable 7424XP, a Meguiar's 6" interface pad and some clean water in a spray bottle with a few drops of car wash soap.

Then pick just ONE panel, I'd go with the trunk lid, machine sand with the #5000 disc and then remove your sanding marks.

This is about as safe as you can get and you can remove the sanding marks fairly easily.

Do this and see what you think of the wet sanding process and how you do. If you're liking it you can simply move around the car panel by panel. Maybe give the #3000 disc a try, follow it with the #5000 and so on and so on....

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I just ordered a Flex 3401.

Did you get a copy of my Flex 3401 How To Book? :xyxthumbs:

I assume I could do this process with that?

You mean,

Do you machine sand car paint and specifically factory original basecoat/clearcoats with a Flex 3401?

[/quote]

If that's what you meant, then the answer is "no". I explain why in my article here,


Can the Flex 3401 be used to wetsand?

Also, I would purchase a panel from a junkyard and practice on that before I would even consider putting sand paper to my car.

That's actually the best way to learn sanding and buffing. Practice on something that's NOT important to you before you start working on something that is important to you.

Also check with your local body shops, often times they'll have hoods and trunk lids and you can probably get it for $25.00 or so and it's already going to have been removed from the car.

In order to get a hood or trunk lid from the salvage yard you have to pack in a tool bag, search through all the cars, unbolt the panel you want and then hulk it and your tool back back to the office to pay for it. Most salvage yards also have carts you can use to haul the panel back to the office.

Watch out for snakes and spiders and if it's hot outside, take a couple bottles of water with you. Been there, done this a few times in my life.

 

[glisten]

Is it possible to wet sand with a rotary? Or is this not ideal?

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Is it possible to wet sand with a rotary? Or is this not ideal?

Well anything is possible in this world of you put your mind to it but that doesn't mean it's practical or a good idea.

If you were to attach a sanding disc to a rotary buffer and then try to use it - it wouldn't be called sanding it would be called grinding.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

:updated:


Shared here,


Bucket List Buff - 1968 Shelby Mustang GT350 - Original Paint by Mike Phillips