New car...should I detail?

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MichaelD16

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I just picked up the 2014 Impala. I live on the east coast and the cold snowy winter months are right around the corner. I have black fire polish and seal and bf wet diamond. Don't think I need to use polish and seal...maybe just wet diamond and then a coat if wax. Was curious to hear thoughts on what I should do?

Thanks everyone for assistance.
 
If I had a brand new car that was in perfect or near perfect shape I would coat it.
 
07gtcs said:
1) Wash
2)Clay
3) Wash again
4) Polish and Seal
5)BFWD
6) BF Crystal Seal
7) Sit back and enjoy
Click to expand...

good plan with what you have. pick up the crystal seal and bf polymer spray too. P & S is a really good one step. it will stand alone. but topping it with wax is all the better.
 
For winter, I would go with 1-3 of GT's post. But just use BF Total Polish & Seal and winter wax, like Collinite 845 after that. You can pick up Coll 845 at Advance Auto.

When spring rolls around, I'm 100% on board with GT....Polish & Seal, finish with BFWD All Finish Paint Protection and top with BF Crystal Seal. You can add a coat of wax on top of Crystal Seal if you want, but probably don't need it unless you have dark paint. I like BF Midnight Sun Paste Wax.
 
Do it. You'll be glad you did after you see how filthy your clay gets. The most filth I ever clayed from my car was when it was brand new.
Love the new Impala BTW.
 
07gtcs said:
1) Wash
2)Clay
3) Wash again
4) Polish and Seal
5)BFWD
6) BF Crystal Seal
7) Sit back and enjoy
Click to expand...

I wouldn't think claying or polishing would be in order for a brand new car, but get a good look at it in the sun and do the baggie test.

Also, if you're going to get crystal sal you might as well get dp paint coating
 
New cars should be clayed at minimum before LSP. :xyxthumbs:
 
FASTFRED said:
New cars should be clayed at minimum before LSP. :xyxthumbs:
Click to expand...

:iagree:This would be my vote. I'd wash, clay, apply a durable seal, and call it good for the winter.


Even if the dealer has done the free swirl mark application for you, there will probably be more from abuse it will see over the winter. Once Spring rolls around, then I'd look at a minor correction/paint cleaning and some great looking sealants/waxes.
 
BradsDetailing said:
I wouldn't think claying or polishing would be in order for a brand new car [/DQUOTE]

I respectfully disagree. My dealer prepped white car looked fantastic when it was delivered. As soon as I got home I clayed it between strongly Dawning and Zainoing it. The clay ended up almost as black as the tires.
Click to expand...
 
Dealers don't care about the fine details. Cars sit at the factory, at rail yards, at shipping distribution centers before they get to the dealer. All a dealer will do is wash it.

I'd treat it just like any other detail. The earlier you start, the easier it will be to keep up on it over the life of the car.

And since you're in the Northeast like me, I'd recommend coating the inside of the frame rails with a rust inhibitor or zinc treatment like one from Eastwood Company to keep the rust away. My 2010 Equinox has started to develop small areas of corrosion where the subframe and floors come together. Very disappointing. So do all you can to prevent rust. If you can get it on a lift and clean and coat all under the chasis, all the better.
 
So here are the steps I've got so far:

Wash
Clay
Wash
BF polish and seal
BF Wet Diamond
BF crystal seal

On the Impala 2ltz there are chrome accents...should apply the above steps to them as well?

I also think I should put something on the weather stripping as well to keep them in good shape. Any suggestions for that?

Thank you all very much...I really appreciate all the feedback. Here's a picture if the chrome I was talking about

View attachment 21704
 
Yep, just do the accents by hand for polish, seal, and LSP. I just did a 2014 this summer and had those chrome accents. Just be careful not to have pad overloaded with product when you get close to them, either with machine or by hand, so you don't deposit in the cracks.

I did the same process of TPnS, WD, and CS. Let the WD haze for about 30 minutes before you buff off. Then wait 12 hours before applying CS. CS is 2 coats @ 3 hours apart. Finish with Polymer Spray 3 hours after 2nd coat of CS. I use the PS after every wash after a thorough dry. Takes care of any water spots or streaking from drying and rejuvenates a nice slick feel.
 
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