White Camry - Less than Favorable Results (HELP)

cardaddy said:
THIS!
OP, You didn't say if it's single stage or BC/CC.
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The best I can tell is that it's a clearcoat system, using the methods Mike showed us in class.

I thing I'll get the orange pads most folks suggested. (these, right?: 5 Inch Hybrid Power Finish Orange Pad (Single))

And, since I have the Wolfgang Uber compound on hand, I plan to use that for now. (unless I should use the M105 as some have suggested)

I'll see if I can sneak over to my customer's house one night this week and try this out on a smaller panel like the trunk lid.

Thanks for all the feedback!
 
Don't forget about the Menzerna line up. Works nicely on my clients white vehicles. This car took 3 hours. 1 step, light oxidation and light wash marks. Sealed with power lock.
 
Znig22 said:
Don't forget about the Menzerna line up. Works nicely on my clients white vehicles. This car took 3 hours. 1 step, light oxidation and light wash marks. Sealed with power lock.
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Hi, is Honda White Civic 2007 and white MDX single stage? I mean soft paint or hard paint? Thank you.
 
ShaunD said:
Note to everyone that doesn't know/didn't state it in their post.
Toyota white is a single stage white that uses titanium oxide as its pigment. This is the hardest SS paint you will come across; if not the hardest paint that some people may ever try to correct. It can be made to glow but takes 2-4 steps depending on how oxidized it is and how many RIDS are in the paint. I just recently did a wash and seal(Opti-Seal) on a client's wife's 2013 Camry, and it was already losing gloss. There was at least one spot I saw that looked like someone had polished it, either at the factory or dealership, and it made the rest of the car look dull.
To get really good gloss you need to cut the paint first to remove the oxidation. This means if your using a DA and light cutting pad then you have to keep your arm speed very slow. Otherwise you will just be polishing the oxidation, not actually removing it. On a new car you should be able to follow up with WGFG and a finishing pad and be left with a swirl free, glossy finish. I tried using Meg's MF system on this paint the first time I worked on it and I had a hard time removing the film. Was probably partially my fault, for at the time I hadn't mastered the MF system yet. But, I have found that Menzerna products are easier to use on this paint. A MF pad would probably cut this paint well with WGTSR and produce good gloss and depth. If you were having problems removing WG-FG it might be that you need to shake the product regularly and that the paint was soaking up the oils because the oxidized paint wasn't removed all the way. What were your prep steps?
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Thanks for the info, I had no idea. :dblthumb2:
 
Well...might as well throw this out there. Don't wanna feel left out.

All Optimum products. LSP: OCW topping Opti-Seal. I think I cut with rotary/polish with DA.

 
ShaunD said:
Note to everyone that doesn't know/didn't state it in their post.
Toyota white is a single stage white that uses titanium oxide as its pigment. This is the hardest SS paint you will come across; if not the hardest paint that some people may ever try to correct. It can be made to glow but takes 2-4 steps depending on how oxidized it is and how many RIDS are in the paint. I just recently did a wash and seal(Opti-Seal) on a client's wife's 2013 Camry, and it was already losing gloss. There was at least one spot I saw that looked like someone had polished it, either at the factory or dealership, and it made the rest of the car look dull.
To get really good gloss you need to cut the paint first to remove the oxidation. This means if your using a DA and light cutting pad then you have to keep your arm speed very slow. Otherwise you will just be polishing the oxidation, not actually removing it. On a new car you should be able to follow up with WGFG and a finishing pad and be left with a swirl free, glossy finish. I tried using Meg's MF system on this paint the first time I worked on it and I had a hard time removing the film. Was probably partially my fault, for at the time I hadn't mastered the MF system yet. But, I have found that Menzerna products are easier to use on this paint. A MF pad would probably cut this paint well with WGTSR and produce good gloss and depth. If you were having problems removing WG-FG it might be that you need to shake the product regularly and that the paint was soaking up the oils because the oxidized paint wasn't removed all the way. What were your prep steps?
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Yeah, exactly correct.

Like in the old days, have to be aggressive to get down to clean paint then polish it. :xyxthumbs:

M105 and an aggressive cutting pad will cut down to the clean paint and start to polish it out nice, then follow up with M205.

Back in the old days I we used rotary buffers and wool pads (before DA polishers were out).
 
ShaunD said:
Note to everyone that doesn't know/didn't state it in their post.
Toyota white is a single stage white that uses titanium oxide as its pigment. This is the hardest SS paint you will come across; if not the hardest paint that some people may ever try to correct. It can be made to glow but takes 2-4 steps depending on how oxidized it is and how many RIDS are in the paint. I just recently did a wash and seal(Opti-Seal) on a client's wife's 2013 Camry, and it was already losing gloss. There was at least one spot I saw that looked like someone had polished it, either at the factory or dealership, and it made the rest of the car look dull.
To get really good gloss you need to cut the paint first to remove the oxidation. This means if your using a DA and light cutting pad then you have to keep your arm speed very slow. Otherwise you will just be polishing the oxidation, not actually removing it. On a new car you should be able to follow up with WGFG and a finishing pad and be left with a swirl free, glossy finish. I tried using Meg's MF system on this paint the first time I worked on it and I had a hard time removing the film. Was probably partially my fault, for at the time I hadn't mastered the MF system yet. But, I have found that Menzerna products are easier to use on this paint. A MF pad would probably cut this paint well with WGTSR and produce good gloss and depth. If you were having problems removing WG-FG it might be that you need to shake the product regularly and that the paint was soaking up the oils because the oxidized paint wasn't removed all the way. What were your prep steps?
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Great info! Thanks
 
I have the same exact car (2011 model). i used the m105/m205 combo with great results.


 
for this Miata I used M105 and a yellow pad, some paints you have to work the product longer and move a little slower to get the results you want. Finished with #845



2013-10-28_13-39-31_737.jpg


2013-10-28_13-40-27_62.jpg


2013-10-28_19-41-23_677.jpg
 
RLucky82 said:
for this Miata I used M105 and a yellow pad, some paints you have to work the product longer and move a little slower to get the results you want. Finished with #845



2013-10-28_13-39-31_737.jpg


2013-10-28_13-40-27_62.jpg


2013-10-28_19-41-23_677.jpg
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Looking great. :xyxthumbs:

I think we need a special section just for white cars. :dblthumb2:

Got to love white done right. :buffing:
 
Reminds me of the first car I ever detailed for a customer, after throwing away the wax spreader and getting my first professional grade polisher. (Cyclo)




Look at the hood in the above photo. I had done a little testing on the passenger's side only of the hood at that point. Notice how there's absolutely no gloss on the driver's side of the hood or anywhere else other than half the hood. The paint looked like chalk on a chalk board.

Keep in mind that this was my first ever payed detail but it didn't turn out too bad for using sludge for products.

another angle before.



I used a rocks in a bottle compound from a local dealership detailing supply, then finished with their finishing polish and topped it with NXT 2.0





It took somewhere around 15 hours and 3 to 4 buckets of snappy pad cleaning water to clean the white paint and oxidation out of my Cyclo pads as I worked through this job.

From this job came the first few words of "word of mouth" about my detailing services. That was a few years back.
 
tuscarora dave said:
Reminds me of the first car I ever detailed for a customer, after throwing away the wax spreader and getting my first professional grade polisher. (Cyclo)




Look at the hood in the above photo. I had done a little testing on the passenger's side only of the hood at that point. Notice how there's absolutely no gloss on the driver's side of the hood or anywhere else other than half the hood. The paint looked like chalk on a chalk board.

Keep in mind that this was my first ever payed detail but it didn't turn out too bad for using sludge for products.

another angle before.



I used a rocks in a bottle compound from a local dealership detailing supply, then finished with their finishing polish and topped it with NXT 2.0





It took somewhere around 15 hours and 3 to 4 buckets of snappy pad cleaning water to clean the white paint and oxidation out of my Cyclo pads as I worked through this job.

From this job came the first few words of "word of mouth" about my detailing services. That was a few years back.
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That would make or break most people for sure. :xyxthumbs:

Turned out really good though. :) :buffing:
 
Funny/true Dave. I was looking for pics of the two Tundras I've done and came across pics of the bottom of my pad washer bucket after doing the first Tundra(the first time,long story for another thread). Will try to post it, but it looked like white compound in between my fingers. I really have no desire to work on Toyota SS white or Tundras for quite a while. Yeah, think about this; You thought it was tough/time consuming working on This paint on a little ol' Camry. Imagine the whole process on a crew cab Tundra that has intentionally been neglected so that the paint would oxidize. Sounds fun huh?... It took me about 17-18 hours(straight) and there were areas that still needed to be compounded as the one step that worked on some areas didn't work on tougher/harder areas like the bedsides. Quite a few lessons learned on that job:)

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using AG Online
 
ShaunD said:
Funny/true Dave. I was looking for pics of the two Tundras I've done and came across pics of the bottom of my pad washer bucket after doing the first Tundra(the first time,long story for another thread). Will try to post it, but it looked like white compound in between my fingers. I really have no desire to work on Toyota SS white or Tundras for quite a while. Yeah, think about this; You thought it was tough/time consuming working on This paint on a little ol' Camry. Imagine the whole process on a crew cab Tundra that has intentionally been neglected so that the paint would oxidize. Sounds fun huh?... It took me about 17-18 hours(straight) and there were areas that still needed to be compounded as the one step that worked on some areas didn't work on tougher/harder areas like the bedsides. Quite a few lessons learned on that job:)

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using AG Online
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Yeah...I don't envy anyone in the middle of a job like that. I've done a lot of SS corrections since that first white Camry and not looking forward to the next one either.
 
tuscarora dave said:
Yeah...I don't envy anyone in the middle of a job like that. I've done a lot of SS corrections since that first white Camry and not looking forward to the next one either.
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If I had to do a lot of them maybe M85 on a wool pad on a rotary would really speed things up a lot. :buffing:
 
jankerson said:
Looking great. :xyxthumbs:

I think we need a special section just for white cars. :dblthumb2:

Got to love white done right. :buffing:
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Thanks, Forgot to add that I only used a Porter Cable and it took a solid 5 hours of Wash, Polish, and Wax for that little guy :)
 
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