paint coating hype

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wildwilly1

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not understanding all the hype on the paint coatings anybrand. they all tell you to mist it on a very miniscule amount is needed for protection just not buying it help convince me any long term reviews anything on these over the long haul science of it all may be there but I need proof .
 
wildwilly1 said:
not understanding all the hype on the paint coatings anybrand. they all tell you to mist it on

a very miniscule amount is needed for protection

just not buying it help convince me any long term reviews anything on these over the long haul

science of it all may be there but I need proof .
Click to expand...
It's similar to the same hype of where: Only a very miniscule amount (a few millionths of an inch)
of other Last Step Products (LSP's)...such as Waxes and Sealants...would be applied on
a vehicle's surfaces for protection, as a sacrificial barrier would so equate.

If a person doesn't believe in scientific proof...how, then:
are they to accept empirical findings as the real truth? ~Bob
 
I've used all the other coatings AG carries and a few AG doesn't carry, (you guys would be surprised at how many companies send me samples to test out).

And just for the record, the other coatings we carry work GREAT! And I've recommend these to countless people over the years as well as all the other outstanding brands AG carries.

Here's just a few of the cars that I've personally used other coatings on as well as Detailer's Paint Coating and Black Label Coatings and I think the results speak for themselves.

PLUS in all my write-ups I thoroughly document three things to try to help others follow the same path to success.

  • The before pictures showing the true condition of the paint.
  • The process pictures showing all the pads, products and tools used.
  • The beauty shots showing the end results.
Been doing this on forums since forums were invented.

Please feel encouraged to click on the links and read the entire write-ups which thoroughly document everything.


GTechniq C1 Crystal Lacquer

Video & Pictures - GTechniq Makeover - 2012 High Voltage Yellow Scion tC 7.0

YellowScion16.jpg



GTechniq EXO

Video & Pictures: 1965 Fastback Mustang - GTechniq EXO Show Car Makeover!

65Stang031.jpg



Optimum Opti-Coat II

1977 Can Am Corvette - Modeled by Amy and Janna - Pictures and Video!

CanAmCorvette067.jpg



CQuartz

1994 Porsche 964 Turbo 3.6 - Modeled by Janna and Amy

94PorscheCTW45.jpg




Detailer's Paint Coating

This 1932 Ford has brand new SINGLE STAGE PAINT and the write-up includes,
  • The before pictures showing the true condition of the paint.
  • The process pictures showing all the pads, products and tools used.
  • The beauty shots showing the end results.


Detailer’s Paint Coating on Single Stage Paint

1932_Ford_Phaeton_007.jpg




Detailer's Paint Coating

Cleaned & Coated in 3 Hours - 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Jeep_Grand_Cherokee_017.jpg




Detailer's Paint Coating

1965 Mustang GT Convertible - Detailer's Paint Coating

1965_Mustang_GT_Convertible_012.jpg




Detailer's Paint Coating

Detailer’s Review: Detailer’s Paint Coating & Detailer’s Coating Prep Polish

Detailers_Paint_Coating_011.jpg




Black Label Diamond Paint Coating & Glass Coating & Wheel Coating

Ready for the Mud!

Rupes_Coating_Monster_Truck_038.jpg



Rupes_Coating_Monster_Truck_042.jpg




Black Label Diamond Surface Coating

2006 Mercedes-Benz SLK 350 Show Car Makeover Pictures

2006_SLK_350_086.jpg


2006_SLK_350_090.jpg





Black Label Diamond Paint Coating

Pictures: 2013 Dodge Charger - Black Label Diamond Paint Coating- New Rupes Polishers - Pictures & Video


Rupes_Duetto_039.jpg



Rupes_Duetto_033.jpg




Note this car was coated with a beta version of Black Label Diamond Paint Coating before the formula was finalized for production and before it was public...

Black Label Diamond Paint Coating

Lady in Red - 1986 Porsche - 4-Step Process

1986_Porsche_Mike_Phillips_046.jpg




1986_Porsche_Mike_Phillips_043.jpg






Where the rubber meets the road...
Here's the deal though... as great as the results look in all these detailing projects we did here at Autogeek, and as beautiful as the final results look... the end-results are still dependent upon doing the proper prep work.

Then, after doing the proper prep work you really can create clear, glassy looking paint and the coatings themselves do last longer than traditional car waxes and synthetic paint sealants.

After applying the coating you still must carefully wash your car and maintain the finish if you want to maintain the results. Just because you apply any coating to your car's paint this does not automatically give you the freedom to start running your car through a automatic car wash or even wash it yourself haphazardly as you will diminish the appearance.



On a personal note...
While I did plan on keeping our MB coated I didn't plan on using or continue using a coating on my personal truck because too often I use it for a rolling test panel.

After coating it however and then driving the truck around now for a week, I love the results and while I will continue to use my truck to test products for most of the panels I'm going to continue to use the Black Label line of coatings. Especially because of what's in the works...


Don't now if my posts will help you to form your own opinion about coatings and any and all hype surrounding them but they are the real deal as far as a new way to wax your car without using a traditional "Car Wax" or a traditional "Paint Sealant".

One thing for sure... sooner or later everyone finds something they like...


Car wax has changed...


:xyxthumbs:
 
Mike...."especially what's in the works..." now what's going on???


WildWilly1, just curious, what products are you using right now? Are you a noob to detailing in general? The reason I ask is because maybe you need to work your way up. After using a nuba maybe a "hybrid" is in order, maybe a sealant, also you might wanna try a WOWA product (wipe on walk away) like Black Fire Crystal Seal and then step up to the latest and greatest, paint coatings.

I've tried DP paint coating recently, over a month ago and I can honestly tell you the stuff is for real! It really does feel differently, the look is "candy" and yes, it really is that easy to apply. When your used to "wax on, wax off" and getting "Popeye arms" getting the stuff off, the newer tech might make you roll your eyes but rest assured these new products are AWESOME, ALL OF THEM!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
i do not do this for a living but i have been detailing cars for some while just not up on the latest and greatest products. the last lsp i used besides a wax was blackfire wet diamond loved it. it was used on a black hummer h2 i had after proper paint correction. i currently have a black audi a8 i am getting everything together to do the paint correction and would like to get a great coating wax sealant whatever it may be to protect the paint when i am done. my only problem now is that i live in ky temps now are in the upper 30s mid 40s for highs will be this way until march too cold for a coating correct. what would be the absolute best coating to use for looks and durability thx
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Where the rubber meets the road...
Here's the deal though... as great as the results look in all these detailing projects we did here at Autogeek, and as beautiful as the final results look... the end-results are still dependent upon doing the proper prep work.

Then, after doing the proper prep work you really can create clear, glassy looking paint and the coatings themselves do last longer than traditional car waxes and synthetic paint sealants.

After applying the coating you still must carefully wash your car and maintain the finish if you want to maintain the results. Just because you apply any coating to your car's paint this does not automatically give you the freedom to start running your car through a automatic car wash or even wash it yourself haphazardly as you will diminish the appearance.


:xyxthumbs:
Click to expand...


I love coatings and the way they can protect the cars paint but one thing I feel that gets over looked is that these coatings are not bullet proof nor scratch proof.

As Mike has already stated Proper Washing is key to keeping yout coatong scratch and defect free. You should still be doing a 2 BM for washing with grit guards and drying with the blotting method and good WW towels or a filtered air blower. You will want to take all the same pre-cautionary measures as you would with any other form of LSP.

You will always want to remove and bird bomb, standing water, or anything else that would etch into the clear coat.

Some of the coatings like the DP and Black Label coatings had the properties that allow you to use a sealant and or a wax ontop of the coating. Others like Opti-Coat, while you can still place a sealant or a wax on top of it wont allow the wax or sealant to remain on the surface for very long.


Coatings are great but they aren't for everyone so you just have to decide what you like. If you do go with them the as stated prep is key and post coating wases will keep it looking great.
 
wildwilly1 said:
what about the temperature for application
Click to expand...

I wrote this a few years ago before coatings were the real deal but the recommendations and info is just as accurate today as it was when I wrote it.



What temperature ranges are best for applying compounds, polishes, waxes and paint sealants


TaylorOutdoorThermometer.jpg





Here's the main point if you don't want to click over and read the entire article...



Most premium quality car detailing products will work easily within a much broader temperature range, such as, 50 degrees to 90 degrees Fahrenheit but optimum results are when you're working in a range of 60 degrees to 80 degrees.



:dblthumb2:
 
so I probably would be better off doing a good paint correction then putting a couple coats of a very durable wax like collinite 476 and then waiting till spring for the coating correct
 
WildWilly, your use of Black Fire Wet Diamond is a good choice but for durability your going to want to look into Collinite #476 if its just durability your lookikng for, Collinite #915 has great durability AND looks but its not to say #476 doesn't look good, it all in how you prep the paint or how the paint looks prior to the application. Now if you wanna come right up to the "latest and greatest" I can recommend Detailers Pro Paint Colating (DPPC) as I have it and have used it a month ago. I applied it 2x's and I'm very happy with the results, very smooth, looks great and beads great! This colating is $50.00 for 4 oz and although not cheap keep in mind that you don't use a lot and it lasts a very long time, just sayin'!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
thanks for all your help guys I think my game plan will be full paint correction this weekend fg400 microfiber followed with m205 and a softbuff pad followed with a glaze seems to make black paint a little darker and 2 coats of 476. then in spring do a touch up where needed on paint correction followed up by a good coating .
 
Hopefully you've got a warm garage to use, 60 degrees is minimum. As far as the Collinite goes, you'll wanna wait 12 hrs inbetween coats, so maybe finish up in the early evening, let it sit in the garage and then in the morning apply another coat. Maybe you can borrow or buy one of those small propane heaters to keep the temps up (not overnight, ofcoarse, my PSA for the day, LOL!)

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
yeah it suppose to be in the mid to upper 40s fri sat that with a heater of some sorts I think I will be fine thnks for all your guys help I will post some pics next week if all goes well
 
I too, have wondered about this. I have coated 3 cars with Opticoat 2.0 so far. All three cars bead water fairly well, but I wonder if water beading is the ultimate indicator of protection. There has to be a difference in the level of protection being provided by the various LSP products, and that's difficult to measure.

I still have some difficulty time believing that the coating is going to be protecting as well as a conventional product that gets refreshed every 3-4 months.
 
I have been using megs ultimate liquid wax, which is a synthetic polymer wax (which I think is more of a sealant than a wax?). It is not expensive and from my experience can last 6 months or more. Basically once a year I wash, clay, polish (205) and apply ULW. For the next year I simply wash my car every weekend and it always beads well and looks great. Any reason to go to another brand ??
 
spence said:
I have been using megs ultimate liquid wax, which is a synthetic polymer wax (which I think is more of a sealant than a wax?). It is not expensive and from my experience can last 6 months or more. Basically once a year I wash, clay, polish (205) and apply ULW. For the next year I simply wash my car every weekend and it always beads well and looks great. Any reason to go to another brand ??
Click to expand...

How are you sure that protection is still being provided?

From my experience, paint that is stripped and contamination free will bead fairly well too...
 
The Critic said:
I too, have wondered about this. I have coated 3 cars with Opticoat 2.0 so far.
All three cars bead water fairly well, but I wonder if
water beading is the ultimate indicator of protection.

There has to be a difference in the level of protection being provided by the various LSP products, and that's difficult to measure.

I still have some difficulty time believing that the coating is going to be protecting as well
as a conventional product that gets refreshed every 3-4 months.
Click to expand...


spence said:
Any reason to go to another brand ??

^^^"Find something you like and use it often"^^^ ~Mike P
spence said:
I have been using megs ultimate liquid wax, which is a synthetic polymer wax (which I think is more of a sealant than a wax?). It is not expensive and from my experience can last 6 months or more. Basically once a year I wash, clay, polish (205) and apply ULW. For the next year I simply wash my car every weekend and it always beads well and looks great.

The Critic said:
How are you sure that protection is still being provided?

^^^Why wouldn't it still be provided?^^^

From my experience, paint that is stripped and contamination free will bead fairly well too...
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
How, then, do you gauge that an LSP is ever actually protecting?

And...To piggy-back off that inquiry:

How do you gauge that, every 3-4 months, a "conventional product" needs refreshing?

Thanks.

Bob
 
Honestly, I do not know. But, when I bought my black accord last year, I told the dealer I would not sign any papers, until the detailers finished detailing it and if I found any swirls (inspecting in full sunlight) I would not sign the papers. They took 4 hours and the car looked fantastic. I brought it home and did the washing, claying, 205 and ULW. Now when I wash it, it still looks even better than the day I drove it home from the dealers. So I think the ULW is lasting (6k miles no swirls).
 
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