Ultimate compound to Wax (2 stage)?

MJT

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Hi guys, I am wondering is it possible to go from using UC with an orange pad straight to waxing (cutting out the middle polishing stage)? I know that when I use m105 it does need a second polish and then a wax. But with UC it has at times buffed off really well. No haze or anything. Has anyone else experienced this?

Similarly what if I used an orange pad instead with m205, and then jumped straight to waxing? Would that be ok? Would that be better than jumping from UC straight to a wax?

The reason I am asking is that I am looking for quicker ways to detail. I am realizing that not every customer wants to pay for 8 hours of labor with a three stage polish. What do others do when you only have four hours or so to detail a car???

Thanks.
 
Hi guys, I am wondering is it possible to go from using UC with an orange pad straight to waxing (cutting out the middle polishing stage)? I know that when I use m105 it does need a second polish and then a wax. But with UC it has at times buffed off really well. No haze or anything. Has anyone else experienced this?

Similarly what if I used an orange pad instead with m205, and then jumped straight to waxing? Would that be ok? Would that be better than jumping from UC straight to a wax?

The reason I am asking is that I am looking for quicker ways to detail. I am realizing that not every customer wants to pay for 8 hours of labor with a three stage polish. What do others do when you only have four hours or so to detail a car???

Thanks.

You can do whatever you want. It's your business. In a case where the customer wants some form of paint correction but doesn't want to pay a whole lot, sell them on a all-in-one. Tell them there will still be scratches left over along with water spots. Trust me I sell many different forms of buffs some are only to enhance gloss and some are minor correction where I only remove swirls. If a customer isn't going to maintain their car properly I'm not going to charge them $1200 for a full correction only to see the car in a month and it's back to the way it was. Remember, it's your show.
 
I've been using carpro fixer lately as a one step and change up pads based on the harshness needed.

I don't use any smat products so I'm just wondering if maybe you should be looking into that aspect. I'm not sure if dat or smat is gonna offer you more versatility in this quest, but it might be a factor.
 
If you just want to do a 2 step process why not use megs DMAF system (D300 and D301).
 
You can do whatever you want. It's your business. In a case where the customer wants some form of paint correction but doesn't want to pay a whole lot, sell them on a all-in-one. Tell them there will still be scratches left over along with water spots. Trust me I sell many different forms of buffs some are only to enhance gloss and some are minor correction where I only remove swirls. If a customer isn't going to maintain their car properly I'm not going to charge them $1200 for a full correction only to see the car in a month and it's back to the way it was. Remember, it's your show.

:iagree:


D151 or XMT 360...

D151 for more correction ability and XMT 360 for finishes that are already in pretty good shape.
 
Depends on which pad you use, I know I've done it in the past with good results.
If you use an aggressive pad then you might have to do the second step,either with UP or m205.
Also if working on a really soft paint then again you'll have to do the second step.
Too many variables to say yes or no.
You'll know once your done using the UC.
 
Depends on which pad you use, I know I've done it in the past with good results.
If you use an aggressive pad then you might have to do the second step,either with UP or m205.
Also if working on a really soft paint then again you'll have to do the second step.
Too many variables to say yes or no.
You'll know once your done using the UC.

I have done it with UC before also using a Megs 6.5" Yellow pad....

Like you said, it depends. :D
 
Hi guys, I am wondering is it possible to go from using UC with an orange pad straight to waxing (cutting out the middle polishing stage)? I know that when I use m105 it does need a second polish and then a wax. But with UC it has at times buffed off really well. No haze or anything. Has anyone else experienced this?
I have...many times.

Similarly what if I used an orange pad instead with m205, and then jumped straight to waxing? Would that be ok? Would that be better than jumping from UC straight to a wax?
Again: I have...many times.
I'll add: YMMV.

The reason I am asking is that I am looking for quicker ways to detail. I am realizing that not every customer wants to pay for 8 hours of labor with a three stage polish. What do others do when you only have four hours or so to detail a car???

Thanks.
Quicker ways may not always be the best of ways.
And...Sometimes the best just isn't good enough.

Why the 4 hours limitation? That wouldn't set right with/for me.

:)

Bob
 
Similarly what if I used an orange pad instead with m205, and then jumped straight to waxing? Would that be ok? Would that be better than jumping from UC straight to a wax?



Thanks.


You can use M205 more aggressively, pads, speed etc and get some good to excellent results depending.
 
Ok so am I right in thinking that the more aggressive the pad is the more possibility that a second polish maybe required?
 
I have...many times.

Quicker ways may not always be the best of ways.
And...Sometimes the best just isn't good enough.

Why the 4 hours limitation? That wouldn't set right with/for me.

:)

Bob

Well I am trying to work out how much to charge for detailing. I haven't looked into different packages yet to offer as this is something I am doing on the side for people I know. But it seems many people are not expecting a full three stage polish, or they want to spend $200 Max for a good detail. Also I have come across dealerships who literally give their workers 3 hours to do a two stage polish and clean the interior of the car too!! How is that possible in 3 hours?? So that's kind of made me think do I need to speed up my work? I know a three stage polish normally is taking me 8 hours including wash and basic claying. And that's rushing. Would appreciate advice on this!
 
Ok so am I right in thinking that the more aggressive the pad is the more possibility that a second polish maybe required?
^^^That's a possibility.^^^

Also to consider (among others):
-The "downward force" being applied
-Arm speed

:)

Bob
 
Well I am trying to work out how much to charge for detailing. I haven't looked into different packages yet to offer as this is something I am doing on the side for people I know. But it seems many people are not expecting a full three stage polish, or they want to spend $200 Max for a good detail. Also I have come across dealerships who literally give their workers 3 hours to do a two stage polish and clean the interior of the car too!! How is that possible in 3 hours?? So that's kind of made me think do I need to speed up my work? I know a three stage polish normally is taking me 8 hours including wash and basic claying. And that's rushing. Would appreciate advice on this!
I always found it best not to ever rush any detailing job where pay was involved.
Mistakes can happen when processes are rushed.
Those mistakes come out of the detail-payment...one way or another!

The more: detailing-for-dollars that you do...the more efficient you'll become.
That'll include many time-saving steps.
And I'll mention the amount of foot-steps, as well.

That's why: "rushed-dealership-detailing":...would never be my cup of tea!

:)

Bob
 
Well I am trying to work out how much to charge for detailing. I haven't looked into different packages yet to offer as this is something I am doing on the side for people I know. But it seems many people are not expecting a full three stage polish, or they want to spend $200 Max for a good detail. Also I have come across dealerships who literally give their workers 3 hours to do a two stage polish and clean the interior of the car too!! How is that possible in 3 hours?? So that's kind of made me think do I need to speed up my work? I know a three stage polish normally is taking me 8 hours including wash and basic claying. And that's rushing. Would appreciate advice on this!


I would go with an AIO like Megs D151 PRC then as it will cut your time down a lot. :xyxthumbs:

Or you can use Megs M20, it's a cleaner sealant for cars that just need to be cleaned up some.

$200 is an AIO Detail for sure.... And no more than 4 hours..... And that's just for the outside of the car and maybe a quick vacuum and wipe down on the inside.

A 3 stage takes me 12 hours usually....

One should be able to do an AIO with washing, claying etc in 4 hours without much of an problem.... And not rushing either...
 
The trick to an AIO is picking the right pad so you have a good finish while keeping the section passes to 3 or 4 max, no more than that.

You only want to go over the car one time, other than maybe a spray wax at the end to boast the AIO protection.

Remember it's a $200 detail, not a $400+ detail....

One isn't shooting for any kind of serious error correction over maybe 50% or so.... Removing the light swirls really... And making the paint shiny so it looks good.

PRC/D151 will do better than that usually with the right pad, so it's just an estimate.

Anything other than the above would be an up sale and charged at an hourly rate.
 
I've had good results with HD Speed with a white pad. If you want more aggressive correction go with the orange.
 
I would go with an AIO like Megs D151 PRC then as it will cut your time down a lot. :xyxthumbs:

Or you can use Megs M20, it's a cleaner sealant for cars that just need to be cleaned up some.

$200 is an AIO Detail for sure.... And no more than 4 hours..... And that's just for the outside of the car and maybe a quick vacuum and wipe down on the inside.

A 3 stage takes me 12 hours usually....

One should be able to do an AIO with washing, claying etc in 4 hours without much of an problem.... And not rushing either...

Thanks this is really helpful. I have no idea what detailers really charge yet (and will probably post a separate question for this). But didn't realize that a $200 price would normally be an AIO. What would a typical two stage and three stage normally be charged at??
 
Thanks this is really helpful. I have no idea what detailers really charge yet (and will probably post a separate question for this). But didn't realize that a $200 price would normally be an AIO. What would a typical two stage and three stage normally be charged at??

It would just hourly rate you want to make multiplied by the typical time estimate to complete those jobs.
 
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