New Guy With A Polisher Questions

[ousooner2]

Hey guys, I picked up these things below during the Autogeek Black Friday sale (had some of this before the sale) and I'm looking to begin using the Griots 6" polisher when the weather clears up here in Oklahoma. I've tried to read all I can and I'm still reading up on here about everything, though I thought it might be a good idea to make a post asking specific questions I have. I'm sure these questions have been answered before, but most are likely scattered throughout different threads. Hopefully this can help some newer users to the GG6/GG3, PC7424xp, etc. Thanks for you help in advance! :xyxthumbs: :xyxthumbs:


Products I have so far:

- Griots Garage 6" Polisher
-- with 5" LC hook & loop backing plate
-- 5.5" CSS Orange, White & Blue pads (1 of each)
- 5.5" LC FLAT pads (2 orange, 2 white, 2 blue)
- Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover 3.0
- Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0
- Wolfgang Uber Compound (sample size)

- UWW+
- Meg's APC+
- Carpro PERL
- Duragloss Rinsless w/ Aquawax
- Menzerna PowerLock
- Chemical Guys Blacklight
- Blackfire WDAFPP (sample size)
- Clay Magic claybar (blue)
- 30+ MF's from MF-tech, etc; MF applictators; bottles, brushes, etc.



Now, I've got all my products it seems and I'd like to ask a few questions before I just dive in and possibly mess something up...though it seems like it's impossible to mess up the paint with these polishers (griots, pc, etc) these days. So here it is!

1. How do I know what speed to use the GG6? Is there a 'common' speed for certain types of products (ie. speed #2 for waxes/sealant, speed #5 or #6 for compounds, etc)? It seems that's the general theme I've seen, but just wanted to make sure.

2. What is the best way to prime a pad?

3. What is the best way to clean the pad? I've seen most like to use a terry cloth, turn the polisher on a low speed and work it in their hands to remove all the grime off the pad. If you do this...can you use the pad again after that? Obviously I'll have more than just 1 pad for the job, but how do you know when it's TOO dirty?

4. What is a good, but budget friendly light to use in the garage that can show the swirls/etc while I'm working? I always see a standing light in most peoples pictures (with 2 bulbs). Fluorescent is what you what correct?

5. What is a good type of tape to use? I see a few colors of different tape (3m painters tape, etc), but was wondering if there's a cheaper alternative as it seems like that could get expensive lol. Maybe not I don't know.

Also, what are the most important area's to tape off (ie. window seals) and what is okay to not be taped off (ie. headlights, taillights)



I'm sure I'll have more questions as I go, but that's a good start. Again, thanks for your help and hopefully this can be helpful for more people than just myself :dblthumb2:

 

[ousooner2]

A few of these answers can be found here, but I wanted to include them and include this link in case people didn't know about this sticky!


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-articles-help-newbies-machine-polishing.html

 

[HateSwirls]

I have the GG6 and find it cuts better on speed 4.5. Using an orange pad along with WG Uber Compound.
Faster isn't always better IMO

I use the blue or green tape from Sherwin Williams. Both seem to work fine.
I've used cheaper brand tape and it worked good. I just love the colored tape

As for lights I have all sort of lights but for me the halegon 500w on tripod works really good.
I payed 40.00 for it at Ace Hardware.

For priming I make a circle around the pad, middle out then spread like you would a slice of bread.
Don't over prime it , you don't want to saturate it.

You'll love the the GG6


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using AG Online

 

[ousooner2]

A few of these answers can be found here, but I wanted to include them and include this link in case people didn't know about this sticky!


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-articles-help-newbies-machine-polishing.html

A little ways down in this article Mike talks about priming the pad. Do you need to always prime a new pad (a pad that you haven't used yet on the vehicle) AND add product to it before beginning to polish or would you just prime it and go. Then when you need more product, you add the dots/x's/whatever you method is of adding product to the pad?

Just wanted to make sure I don't use too much product or too little product


Edit: Crap. I guess I should have kept reading before I posted this question lol. It's literally the next thing he talks about

 

[RFulmer]

Prime the pad when you first start your project. Then just add the dots.

Of course you'll wash your pad after your done with your car. Then the next time you use the pad you'll start the process over again.. Prime/dots/dots/dots.

I find that if my pad seems to be drying out I'll give it a mist of detail spray (just a slight mist) to dampen it again and I can get a lot more polish out of the pad without re-applying the dots.

 

[ousooner2]

Thanks!

6. Can you put the pads in the washing machine? By themselves or with all your microfibers? Air dry/machine dry hot or warm? Any specific detergents/cleaning agents for the pads and/or microfiber towels or would something like Gain/Tide/etc (without fabric softener) do the trick just fine?

 

[swanicyouth]

Thanks!

6. Can you put the pads in the washing machine? By themselves or with all your microfibers? Air dry/machine dry hot or warm? Any specific detergents/cleaning agents for the pads and/or microfiber towels or would something like Gain/Tide/etc (without fabric softener) do the trick just fine?

Foam pads & washing machines don't mix. MF? Dunno. Don't believe me. Try it a few times with one pad, and wash another by hand using a dedicated pad cleaning product: BlackFire or Wolfgang. If your washing machine pad even still exists, it won't be nearly as "new" as yr hand cleaned one. Also, any type of heat is no good for the glue that holds the Velcro on the pad. Hence, pad de-lamination from over heating. Some pads are better than others, and that's all I'm sayin' on that.

Please try it and report back.


If I'm wrong I'll Pay Pal you 10 bucks for the hand washed pad.

 

[HateSwirls]

I have always washed my foam pads in the washing machine.
Not one time did it mess them up.

However I don't put them in the dryer.
The foam pads still look like the day I bought them

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using AG Online

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

A few of these answers can be found here, but I wanted to include them and include this link in case people didn't know about this sticky!


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-articles-help-newbies-machine-polishing.html

Thanks for finding that... :dblthumb2:

I forgot where I posted it and it was never added to my article list.

I think I have at least 200 articles/info threads that have never been added to my main list.

Never enough time...

 

[parttimer]

Foam pads & washing machines don't mix. MF? Dunno. Don't believe me. Try it a few times with one pad, and wash another by hand using a dedicated pad cleaning product: BlackFire or Wolfgang. If your washing machine pad even still exists, it won't be nearly as "new" as yr hand cleaned one. Also, any type of heat is no good for the glue that holds the Velcro on the pad. Hence, pad de-lamination from over heating. Some pads are better than others, and that's all I'm sayin' on that.

Please try it and report back.


If I'm wrong I'll Pay Pal you 10 bucks for the hand washed pad.

I'd let you buy my hand washed pads, but I don't own any since I use the washing machine on all of mine. Washed probably a dozen or 18 pads probably a dozen times with the only change being a slight change in color which I attribute to me soaking the pad in simple green. I will say I had clean the pad before tossing in the washer to finish them. From there I lay them pad side down to air dry. I do find my MF pads don't wash as well in the washer, go figure.

 

[MarkD51]

Sounds like a good game plan, and a selection of tools-equipment-products.

Mike's method that he shows to clean the pads on the fly works, but I think too, that there comes a point were a pad might start getting too dirty, or maybe too overworked, and it is good to have a few pads of each type on hand, so you can pop the dirty pad off, pop a fresh one on, and continue.

The Pad Washing products (I have Wolfgang) really work well to clean up dirty pads for re-use. To me, they work excellent, and clean without loading the pads up with a whole mess of soaps, which then make the pad hard to rinse clean.

I went the cheapo way with a couple 500W Halogens from Home Depot. Mounted one up high for horizontal panels ($12) and one on the tripod for vertical panels. ($22) Both come with one spare Lamp.

Not the best, and you have to take some consideration where you'll place them while working, as they do produce some heat. None the less, I've used them in 90+ degree heat, and as long as you're not right on top of them, they're not too bad to tolerate.

As for tape, yes, tape does start getting expensive, but I've found buying good quality tape pays off. I've strictly used 3M Brand from Auto Paint Supply Shops, usually the green color in the various widths, and also have gotten a roll of the 3M Blue Plastic Tape in 1/8" width, for finessing tight-intricate areas. A bit easier for tight curves, and such, then one can finish with the conventional paper tape.

One must mask all trim,handles,rubber, chrome, whether chromed metal or plastic, and any other areas in which compounds and polishes may damage the finish of these parts.

Some mask all seams, and this is to prevent dusts, or spatter from correcting products from entering.

And as mike has mentioned many times, about the use of blankets, or towels to protect larger areas from dust, and spatter.

I learned the hard way a couple of times about not covering a louvered-finned Windshield Wiper Cowl. Murder to get clean after, when a little prep would've saved me a hell of a lot of work.

More recently, I've seen Walmart carry a Rustoleum Brand of Orange Masking Tape in the Automotive Dept. The price wasn't bad, I bought a roll of 1/2" wide, but have yet to use it to further comment on its quality, and how it works.
Mark

 

[swanicyouth]

**** My offer to buy the pad is for the OP only, if he finds the washing machine method takes care of his pads better or the same as by hand using a dedicated pad cleaning product (like WG or BF) and a pad brush by hand. I can't buy everyone pads - I'd go broke.

Not to turn this into a whole pad washing debate, but I've tried it both ways and found spinning a pad in circles via a washing machine does not get the pad nearly as clean as squishing cleaner through the foam cells with your hands and scrubbing the face with a pad brush to get any embedded clear coat and polish out - then rinsing and repeating. It just doesn't IMHO. The pad face and Velcro may look clean, but there is still old polymers and polish in the center of the pad. There is also likely whatever soap you are using in your washing machine still in the foam. It can take a lot of squishing and hand rinsing to get ALL the "soap" out of some pads, especially closed cell pads.

Now, if your doing some type of HYBRID method where your cleaning the pads first by hand AND the putting them in the washing machine, I believe your results will likely depends on how well you clean them by hand. Polish, clear coat, and crap are embedded in the pads cells. The washing machine is not using a concentrated cleaning solution, like a dedicated pad cleaner to remove it, it's using something much more diluted. Not to mention polymer type substances used in polishes will come out easier and more complete when using a dedicated pad cleaning spray and a pad brush, like the 2 I mentioned: WG or BF.

Pads are tools. They cost $$$ and they touch your paint. A washing machine may be "good enough" for a lot of people , but I'm into getting the best results possible and maintaining my "tools" the best way possible. I don't want to have to question "is this pad clean enough?" The next time I put it on some paint. Or - worry about some old polish, soap, or clear coat coming to the surface of the "clean" pad causing some polishing nightmare.

Usually when I clean pads, as a final step, I will spray them well with IPA 70% and get the last bit of polish gunk out. Even after cleaning them by hand and getting a clean pad face and clean running water through the pad, crap still comes out with IPA. IPA will often remove the last bit of stain on the face of even white pads. I do this so I know next time I will be using a CLEAN pad that will perform as close to as good as new as possible.

It's a huge hassle to do this. If I thought I could get close to equal results by tossing dirty pads in the washing machine I would do it. But, I have tried it. The pads were not nearly as clean as by hand, and where still clogged up with soap.

 

[ousooner2]

Thanks for finding that... :dblthumb2:

I forgot where I posted it and it was never added to my article list.

I think I have at least 200 articles/info threads that have never been added to my main list.

Never enough time...

No problem! Thanks for all you've done rops:

I have always washed my foam pads in the washing machine.
Not one time did it mess them up.

However I don't put them in the dryer.
The foam pads still look like the day I bought them

I'd let you buy my hand washed pads, but I don't own any since I use the washing machine on all of mine. Washed probably a dozen or 18 pads probably a dozen times with the only change being a slight change in color which I attribute to me soaking the pad in simple green. I will say I had clean the pad before tossing in the washer to finish them. From there I lay them pad side down to air dry. I do find my MF pads don't wash as well in the washer, go figure.

**** My offer to buy the pad is for the OP only, if he finds the washing machine method takes care of his pads better or the same as by hand using a dedicated pad cleaning product (like WG or BF) and a pad brush by hand. I can't buy everyone pads - I'd go broke.

Not to turn this into a whole pad washing debate, but I've tried it both ways and found spinning a pad in circles via a washing machine does not get the pad nearly as clean as squishing cleaner through the foam cells with your hands and scrubbing the face with a pad brush to get any embedded clear coat and polish out - then rinsing and repeating. It just doesn't IMHO. The pad face and Velcro may look clean, but there is still old polymers and polish in the center of the pad. There is also likely whatever soap you are using in your washing machine still in the foam. It can take a lot of squishing and hand rinsing to get ALL the "soap" out of some pads, especially closed cell pads.

Now, if your doing some type of HYBRID method where your cleaning the pads first by hand AND the putting them in the washing machine, I believe your results will likely depends on how well you clean them by hand. Polish, clear coat, and crap are embedded in the pads cells. The washing machine is not using a concentrated cleaning solution, like a dedicated pad cleaner to remove it, it's using something much more diluted. Not to mention polymer type substances used in polishes will come out easier and more complete when using a dedicated pad cleaning spray and a pad brush, like the 2 I mentioned: WG or BF.

Pads are tools. They cost $$$ and they touch your paint. A washing machine may be "good enough" for a lot of people , but I'm into getting the best results possible and maintaining my "tools" the best way possible. I don't want to have to question "is this pad clean enough?" The next time I put it on some paint. Or - worry about some old polish, soap, or clear coat coming to the surface of the "clean" pad causing some polishing nightmare.

Usually when I clean pads, as a final step, I will spray them well with IPA 70% and get the last bit of polish gunk out. Even after cleaning them by hand and getting a clean pad face and clean running water through the pad, crap still comes out with IPA. IPA will often remove the last bit of stain on the face of even white pads. I do this so I know next time I will be using a CLEAN pad that will perform as close to as good as new as possible.

It's a huge hassle to do this. If I thought I could get close to equal results by tossing dirty pads in the washing machine I would do it. But, I have tried it. The pads were not nearly as clean as by hand, and where still clogged up with soap.

Thanks for the help! I might just order some pad cleaning product like the WG or BF and test it out. I obviously don't have any concrete evidence to support this claim, but I agree with swanicyouth in that it probably gets cleaner OVERALL by hand cleaning (either first & then entering the washer or by hand cleaning only).

Also, good tip Parttimer on the 'pad side down to dry'. I didn't even think about that and then came across that tip on one of Mike's sticky threads. Makes sense, but I'm sure it's happened to people before. Thanks for the reminder

Sounds like a good game plan, and a selection of tools-equipment-products.

Mike's method that he shows to clean the pads on the fly works, but I think too, that there comes a point were a pad might start getting too dirty, or maybe too overworked, and it is good to have a few pads of each type on hand, so you can pop the dirty pad off, pop a fresh one on, and continue.

The Pad Washing products (I have Wolfgang) really work well to clean up dirty pads for re-use. To me, they work excellent, and clean without loading the pads up with a whole mess of soaps, which then make the pad hard to rinse clean.

I went the cheapo way with a couple 500W Halogens from Home Depot. Mounted one up high for horizontal panels ($12) and one on the tripod for vertical panels. ($22) Both come with one spare Lamp.

Not the best, and you have to take some consideration where you'll place them while working, as they do produce some heat. None the less, I've used them in 90+ degree heat, and as long as you're not right on top of them, they're not too bad to tolerate.

As for tape, yes, tape does start getting expensive, but I've found buying good quality tape pays off. I've strictly used 3M Brand from Auto Paint Supply Shops, usually the green color in the various widths, and also have gotten a roll of the 3M Blue Plastic Tape in 1/8" width, for finessing tight-intricate areas. A bit easier for tight curves, and such, then one can finish with the conventional paper tape.

One must mask all trim,handles,rubber, chrome, whether chromed metal or plastic, and any other areas in which compounds and polishes may damage the finish of these parts.

Some mask all seams, and this is to prevent dusts, or spatter from correcting products from entering.

And as mike has mentioned many times, about the use of blankets, or towels to protect larger areas from dust, and spatter.

I learned the hard way a couple of times about not covering a louvered-finned Windshield Wiper Cowl. Murder to get clean after, when a little prep would've saved me a hell of a lot of work.

More recently, I've seen Walmart carry a Rustoleum Brand of Orange Masking Tape in the Automotive Dept. The price wasn't bad, I bought a roll of 1/2" wide, but have yet to use it to further comment on its quality, and how it works.
Mark

Thanks! I might have to swing by HD on the way home and see what they've got. Having a HD about 3 miles from the house is dangerous haha.

 

[Old Tiger]

Thanks!

6. Can you put the pads in the washing machine? By themselves or with all your microfibers? Air dry/machine dry hot or warm? Any specific detergents/cleaning agents for the pads and/or microfiber towels or would something like Gain/Tide/etc (without fabric softener) do the trick just fine?

I always machine wash my pads. I wash them separate from MF and let air dry for a few days. I wash and dry my MF and group them by color. There is too much product in the pads to mix them up. Use any lliquid detergent for both pads and MF.
I forgot to add that I spray each pad with a pad cleaner full strength immediately after I remove the pad. I rinse this out in a sink with hot water and then toss them in the washer. Thanks Steve for reminding me of this.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

And as mike has mentioned many times, about the use of blankets, or towels to protect larger areas from dust, and spatter.

I learned the hard way a couple of times about not covering a louvered-finned Windshield Wiper Cowl. Murder to get clean after, when a little prep would've saved me a hell of a lot of work.

I would rather spend time up front taping off and covering things up then AFTER the job when I'm tired going back over the car with a toothbrush to remove compound, polish and wax splatter out of all the nooks and crannies and off any type of trim.


Here's just a few articles on this topic that I know the location of...


Taping-off and Covering Up

How to cover and protect a convertible top before machine buffing

The Beach Towel Tip

The Soft Flannel Bed Sheet Tip

Tips on Taping Off Thin Paint and Chipped Paint

Tape it off and avoid a lifetime of ugly...

Best Practice - Avoid buffing on top of body lines and edges


And here's a video on the topic...

Video: How to tape-off car trim before machine polishing

Here are some tips and techniques to tape-off and cover-up trim, felt or fuzzy gaskets like you find around some sunroofs, wheels and tires, air vents and grills as well as "The Beach Towel Tip"

How to tape-off car trim before machine polishing
[video=youtube_share;WKFdlAFgio4&hd=1"]How to tape-off car trim before machine polishing...[/video]​

Note the Guzzler Waffle Weave towels being used to cover the engine compartment from splatter...

Dedicated how-to article for protecting convertible tops

How to cover and protect a convertible top before machine buffing

I love old classics and hot rods because often time trim has been removed and if they do have trim it's chrome or stainless steel...

1971 GTO Wetsanding Project - Wetsanding, followed by using rotary buffers can be very messy...

The Beach Towel Tip

Tape it off and avoid a lifetime of ugly...


Ugly

No Ugly

Always cover and protect the shiny stuff

Not only does it prevents Splatter Dots from getting everywhere it also prevents the owner of a car to use your name as a cuss word...


Blown 1934 Ford Pick-up - Show Car Makeover - Modeled by Kristin

Next we cover-up all the brightwork and there's lots of it. Take my word for it, when it comes to projects like this you don't dare get polish spatter dots on the engine or in this example the exposed running gear in the truck bed. It's not professional and besides that it would take you hours to wipe the little dots of polish splatter off.

The Autogeek Cover-up Towel is made from soft microfiber and can be washed and re-used. This come in real handy for covering up anything you don't want to get compound or polish splatter dots onto so you won't have to detail these areas with a toothbrush after the the wax has been removed.

The soft microfiber won't scratch paint or polished metals. Simple cover or wrap around components and then use a little painter's tape to secure them in place.

Here we've covered the polished aluminum gas tank and the chrome independent rear-end...

Detailing Boot Camp Classes

Also see the video here,


The Soft Flannel Bed Sheet Tip



The Panic Parrot - 1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe

Keeping it covered, keeps the engine clean...

Keeping it covered means no detailing the very detailed engine afterwards...

:xyxthumbs:

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I've tried it both ways and found spinning a pad in circles via a washing machine does not get the pad nearly as clean as squishing cleaner through the foam cells with your hands and scrubbing the face with a pad brush to get any embedded clear coat and polish out - then rinsing and repeating.

It can take a lot of squishing and hand rinsing to get ALL the "soap" out of some pads, especially closed cell pads.

Good points swanicyouth...


Years ago I wrote something like,

When you through your pads in a washing machine and close the lid, dozens of hands don't magically come out of the sides of the wash tub and squish the pads.

Or something like that...


Point being, the absolute best way to clean the stuff that builds up INSIDE of a foam pad is to flush water and cleaning solution INTO the forum and then extract or squish it out.

Doing the squishing of the cleaning solution out of the foam pad is best done under a source of clean running water. That way you're flushing everything out.

This approach takes time and to be careful about your own personal safety, it's a good idea to wear some gloves if you're using any type of pad cleaner or APC.

If you're using a dishwashing soap like Dawn then this might be a little more safe as the people at Dawn probably take into consideration when people wash dishes by hand their hands will get Dawn detergent on them. I don't know... I'm not a chemist.

I will note that wearing any type of rubber gloves to wash pads will fatigue your hand muscles because you'll have to flex the gloves on top of squishing the foam pads. Since I've done this I thought I would point it out.


I actually cover how to use your hands to wash and squish your pads by hand in my how-to books, all versions.

I have the second edition open in front of me right now and you'll find hand washing on page 79 and 80 and everything you ever wanted to know about cleaning all pads from pages 78 to 91.

Here's a few pictures to give you a mental anchor....

I leave no stone unturned when it comes to cleaning, rinsing, drying and storing pads.

See my sig line for the book...

 

[ousooner2]

Thanks Mike