Comments on Paint Cleaners and Fine Polishes

swanicyouth

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So, I saw a few threads on the forum about people interested in paint cleaners and fine polishes that can be used as paint cleaners. I thought I would put something together regarding these products, my experience with them, and what I use. Ideally, you want to correct your car once. You don't want to compound your car frequently - or possibly even twice. A lot of times, if treated correctly, the paint is fine and healthy - you just want to strip off your old LSP to try something new - at least in the AGO universe.


Menzerna SF4500 / PO85RD

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This is the gold standard "jeweling" polish. It has next to no cut, but does have enough oomph to remove your old LSP and make most swirl free dark paint look deep and wet. The work time is fairly long, and wipe off is pretty easy. I've had zero success using this polish to remove even the slightest of defects on a finishing pad.

There has been some chatter about this polish being "oily" and having the ability to hide fine defects. I don't find it to be excessively oily, but it does have a tendency to gum up pads a like all Menzerna polishes. This is the polish to use on the most delicate soft paints with a soft finishing pad. If your using this polish prior to a coating, I probably would recommend re-washing the vehicle, as polishing oils may be difficult to remove 100%.


PoorBoy's World Professional Polish

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This stuff is a "pure polish". It has either no abrasives, or abrasives that are so fine that they are almost irrelevant. This fact seems to depend on who you ask. When I first bought this polish, I didn't know what to expect, but I was pleasantly surprised. PP buffs as smooth as any high dollar polish. Wipe off is as easy as it gets.

This is a very versatile polish. While it can have next to no cut on a finishing pad, you can use it with a more aggressive pad to fix some minor defects. Ease of use is high. PP can also be used on glass, chrome, plastic - pretty much any polishable surface. It's also useable in the sun and in the shade, but I don't buff in the sun - so, no experience there. It can be used as a paint cleaner by hand as well. Pro Polish also doesn't leave behind a lot of oils or glaze like some other paint cleaner type products. A top notch product, for a bottom basement price.


P21S Paintwork Cleanser

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Old school and still good. This product is a great pre-wax or paint cleaner. It has a glaze component to it as well. P21S Paintwork Cleanser contains kaolin clay. I've heard 2 different reasons for the "clay". Reason one states it's used to "exfoliate" or clean the paint, as clay can be slightly abrasive. Reason two states the clay is in there to fill swirls or contribute to the glazing ability of this product

This is a lotion like product. It separates in the bottle into "oil" and "lotion" - so you have to shake it well. This stuff is best used by hand, but can be used by machine. It leaves paint nice and clean and ready for a wax - any wax. Like all P21S, I'd trust this stuff with my life on any paint. The glaze component leaves the surface semi-slick and glossy. Wipe off is pretty simple, and I find if you use this stuff by machine you want to use slow speeds and only a few passes, or the product will dry out. One of the best all around paint cleaners on the market - you can't go wrong here.


Rupes Diamond Ultra Fine Polish

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All my experience with this product is as part of the Rupes' system: machine, polish, and pads. I think that is how it was designed to be used, so that's how I use it. The amazing thing about this ultra fine polish is it's ability (as part of the Rupes' system) to remove light defects, remove little paint, finish perfectly, and remain easy to use. This polish is best used sparingly, I don't prime pads when I use it - I just use a single spritz of pad priming spray or a QD.

This polish acts to me like it's "polymer heavy". What I mean by that is that it's concentrated and has a rather long work time. That's how I describe it, but I can't say for sure it has a single polymer in it. The pad never seems to want to become "dry" - which is a good thing. Another thing I like about it is that it doesn't gum up pads. This could be do to the fact that it requires so little polish to get the job done, or just a benefit of the Rupes' system in general.

Either way, this is a great ultra fine polish to remove your old LSP, correct some minor defects, and not remove a lot of paint with the Rupes' system. Some people have commented Rupes' polishes can be hard to wipe off. I don't find this an issue, I'm wondering if those that experience this are using too much polish or are priming their pads with polish. The pad for this polish is the Rupes' white pad. If you have a Rupes - it's a no brainer.


Prima Amigo

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This stuff is worth it's weight in gold. Although it contains light abrasives, correction of even the lightest defects is not this product's strong point. The strong point of Amigo is it's mind numbing ease of use and the slick glazed finish it leaves behind. Use it light / use it heavy - wipe off is just as easy. It has enough power to remove your old LSP and leave behind a slick glazed surface behind - all in one step.

Amigo is equally as good by hand or machine - and just as easy to use either way. I know this stuff contains polymers, just by the slick surface it leaves behind. I always grab for Amigo when I'm not sure what to use or just want something I know works awesome and is super easy to use. It works great by hand to remove fresh water spots on your paint. Any splatter of this product is very easy to remove. It doesn't stain trim. Taping is unnecessary.

Another great thing about Amigo is the bottle - it's short and stout. I like this because it doesn't want to tip over every time I sit it down. This product can be used prior to waxes and sealants, and I trust the folks at Prima did their due diligence that it doesn't affect your sealant's life or bonding. Basically, I feel everyone should have a bottle of Amigo in their arsenal. I always keep 2 - just in case they stop making it.


Optimum Finish Polish

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This is another polish, not a paint cleaner per-se. However, this stuff works great as a paint cleaner. It's a super fine polish that is both body shop and VOC compliant. This stuff reminds me of the Rupes' Diamond Ultra Fine Polish a lot. OFP does have polymers - along with a very long work time. The pad never seems to "run dry" and dust is non existent. It's a SMAT polish, so feel free to buff for as little or as long as you like. For whatever reason, this polish tends to fly under the radar. I would classify this polish as a hidden gem.

The beauty of this stuff is it's ease of use, price, and the fact you can use it with any buffer or by hand. This is the polish you want to use if a car requires a fine finishing polish prior to applying Opti Coat. Whatever polymers are in it, they are either removable with 15% IPA or don't interfere with the bonding of the OptiCoat. I know this to be true from Optimum's recommendations and my own personal experience.

Optimum Finish Polish wipes off super easy and leaves glossy glassy paint. It's quite thick and blue. This is another polish you use quite sparingly, although wipe off is always fairly easy unless your painting it on. This polish, like Optimum's other conventional polishes, work awesome for correcting plastic as well. I don't use "plastic polish", although I own a few, because this stuff just works better. For a bit more cut, use it with a polishing pad.

Don't believe me? Try it for yourself. A small bottle is only like twelve bucks.


Swissvax Cleaner Fluid Regular

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No, they don't sell Swissvax at AG. However, I had to include this stuff because I think it's so awesome. Yes, it's expensive. $25+ shipping will get you only 100mls of it. However, you use it by hand and a little goes a long way. Basically, it's an oily glaze type hand paint cleaner with no abrasives. It leaves the glossiest looking glazed finish I've seen for any paint cleaner. Sometimes I will test these types of products out on my super soft black corrected tool box paint before I use them. I did this with Cleaner Fluid Regular when I first received it and took a picture of the results:

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You can likely guess the CFR was applied to the left verticals strip of the black paint. You can see this product adds a substantial glossy glazing effect while cleaning the paint. Does it hid defects - YES! Do I hide defects? No. I just like it for the wet glossy look it gives and how far the product goes. Wipe off is fairly easy, but you use it sparingly. I probably wouldn't use this product before a sealant, just a wax, due to it's heavy glazing effect.
 
Good post...

So, I saw a few threads on the forum about people interested in paint cleaners and fine polishes that can be used as paint cleaners.


Just to comment...

If a person is going to take the time to hand or machine apply anything to paint in great shape to remove the previous LSP or to remove road film, then in my book you're better off to at a minimum use an ultra fine or fine cut polish.

At least by using an ultra fine or fine cut polish not only will you remove the previously applied LSP but you'll also remove any fine or shallow paint defects while maximize both clarity of the top coat and perfecting the surface to maximize gloss.

It takes just as long and requires just as much effort to apply a non-abrasive paint cleaner as it does to apply an ultra fine or fine cut polish and for most people, if your car sees any kind of use at all chance are good you'll do more to improve the quality of the finish by using a polish over a paint cleaner.


Just my own personal practice...


:)
 
Thanks for your comments on these products Steve.

I have only used the Menzerna and agree with you on its performance. It's best used on perfect black paint to extract the last ounce of gloss from it. If there is any towel marks, slight hazing, etc. you are better off grabbing SF4000 and a white pad to remove them.
 
Thanks for your comments on these products Steve.

I have only used the Menzerna and agree with you on its performance. It's best used on perfect black paint to extract the last ounce of gloss from it. If there is any towel marks, slight hazing, etc. you are better off grabbing SF4000 and a white pad to remove them.

Exactly what I found. But, I've never tired it with a polishing pad - just a finishing pad. I know the cut is very low. It may be able to remove some defects on some very soft paint, but I don't have very soft paint - so I have to go by my experience and what works for me.

Good post...


Thanks. I appreciate it !!!
 
Just to comment...

If a person is going to take the time to hand or machine apply anything to paint in great shape to remove the previous LSP or to remove road film, then in my book you're better off to at a minimum use an ultra fine or fine cut polish.

At least by using an ultra fine or fine cut polish not only will you remove the previously applied LSP but you'll also remove any fine or shallow paint defects while maximize both clarity of the top coat and perfecting the surface to maximize gloss.

It takes just as long and requires just as much effort to apply a non-abrasive paint cleaner as it does to apply an ultra fine or fine cut polish and for most people, if your car sees any kind of use at all chance are good you'll do more to improve the quality of the finish by using a polish over a paint cleaner.


Just my own personal practice...


:)
^^^My personal practice as well.^^^

And to add to swanicyouth's list of products:

IMO: 3M Ultrafina is also a "jewel".

:)

Bob
 
Good post...




Just to comment...

If a person is going to take the time to hand or machine apply anything to paint in great shape to remove the previous LSP or to remove road film, then in my book you're better off to at a minimum use an ultra fine or fine cut polish.

At least by using an ultra fine or fine cut polish not only will you remove the previously applied LSP but you'll also remove any fine or shallow paint defects while maximize both clarity of the top coat and perfecting the surface to maximize gloss.

It takes just as long and requires just as much effort to apply a non-abrasive paint cleaner as it does to apply an ultra fine or fine cut polish and for most people, if your car sees any kind of use at all chance are good you'll do more to improve the quality of the finish by using a polish over a paint cleaner.


Just my own personal practice...


:)

:iagree:
 
Thanks for taking time for this great review of products:)
 
And to add to swanicyouth's list of products:

IMO: 3M Ultrafina is also a "jewel".

:)

Bob


And just to add to what Bob wrote, technically, 3M Ultrafine is for use with a rotary buffer only.

Ultrafine is the U.S. name, Ultrafino is the Spanish name, (look at the label on the bottle in the picture below), I've always wondered why everyone calls it by it's Spanish name?

People of course can try it with dual action polishers and it will probably work but the label states otherwise. I could test this on black paint and tell you ASAP if it works via DA.


Just happen to have an article on this topic...

For Use with Rotary Buffer Only - Read the Directions

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RPM = Rotary Buffer


But "yes", 3M Ultrafine would be considred a jewelling polish with the rotary buffer.

:D
 
Excellent post Swanic. Very informative information on a variety of products & brands.
 
Thanks for sharing your experiences. The only one of those that I've used is Amigo, and I agree with your summary.

Here's a post by Heather of Prima, from another forum. In it she describes all the different ways of using Amigo:

"First know that Amigo is very forgiving so whichever application style you choose, you'll get great results and can't really mess anything up!

For basic pre-wax light paint cleansing and mild filling/concealing of imperfections:

•Amigo can be applied by hand, using any soft applicator such as a microfiber covered sponge (i.e. Skinny App or similar) or even a small piece of microfiber cloth. For this basic approach, you don't need to work it in and can just spread it on and remove. -OR-

•Amigo can be applied by machine polisher using a soft black finishing pad. For this basic approach, you don't need to work it in and can just spread it on (at moderate speed, such as 4-5 on the PC) and remove.

For moderate paint cleansing and filling/concealing of imperfections:

•Amigo can be applied by hand, using any soft applicator such as a microfiber covered sponge (i.e. Skinny App or similar) or even a small piece of microfiber cloth. In order to get the increased cleansing power, as well as the filling ability, work Amigo into the paint as you apply it- moving in up and down or side to side motions. The more you work it, the more it will do. -OR-

•Amigo can be applied by machine polisher using a white polishing pad. Again, in order to get considerably increased cleansing power, as well as better filling ability, work Amigo into the paint, moving the polisher slowly and steadily around (at moderate speed, such as 4-5 on the PC).

For aggressive paint cleansing and filling/concealing of imperfections:
(note that as you move up this ladder, the increases in filling/concealing ability will start to plateau; the paint cleansing and polishing will continue to increase though)

•Amigo can be applied by machine polisher using an orange pad. NOTE: Please be aware of your paint's softness at this level, as Amigo's previously "inactive" (inactive in the abrasive sense but not in the cleansing sense) abrasive particles are now being put to work. That said, Amigo and the orange pad is still a relatively non-aggressive polishing approach (i.e. less aggressive than Swirl and the orange pad). This is only a concern on super-soft paints such as BMW, Ferrari, and non-factory re-painted areas etc. Again, the more you work Amigo, the more you'll get out of it. At this level, Amigo will actually do some light abrading as well as it's usual work of deep cleansing and filling/concealing. I would still run the polisher at a moderate speed of 4-5, but it can vary depending on your paint and your technique.

In your particular case of black '97 Civic that you've described as "a mess," I would work it in well with at least the white pad, if not the orange pad. Work each section as long as you can (start with 2 minutes per section and see what that gets you).

Of course, it also depends on how much time you want to spend on this. If you use Amigo with the white pad and move rather quickly, you'll still see some very decent results with very little time. The more time you spend with Amigo, the more it will give you. I'd do a nice sized test spot on the hood to figure out how much it will take to get how far with the improvement."
 
Swissvax fluids are superb. Don't forget Lusso Revitalizing Creme!
 
Nice article, currently I am using LC White CCS Polishing Pad with SF4000. Do you guys think this is a little too aggressive for just a "maintenance"(for a lack of a better word) polish or should I start using 4500 instead?
 
Nice article, currently I am using LC White CCS Polishing Pad with SF4000. Do you guys think this is a little too aggressive for just a "maintenance"(for a lack of a better word) polish or should I start using 4500 instead?

I would also like to hear the consensus on this
 
Really fine work Steve.

I have a couple more to add if you don't mind:
G|Techniq P2 Jeweling Polish. This is a water based polish. I only use it with a rotary, since technically jeweling should be performed by rotary. I have never tried it with a DA so I cant comment on it for that. It does not require more than a damp rag to prep for a coating. Like Optimum, it is SMAT.

CarPro Reflect
This is my new favorite. It does require removal of oils. I would use Eraser or a Nano-polish like Dura gloss squeaky Clean. It has absolutely no fillers, which aids big time for ensuring removal before applying a coating. This stuff adds gloss like no other. It uses a titanium abrasive which has to be seen to be believed. I jewel it with a rotary. It works great with a DA too. I have heard from a trusted source that it is amazing with a RUPES. It looks like a lotion. It is a diminishing abrasive that is very easy to apply and work in until it glosses.

I use a six inch Gold LC pad for either of these polish applications'. Both polishes have enough abrasives but not enough to leave holograms.
 
Really fine work Steve.

I have a couple more to add if you don't mind:
G|Techniq P2 Jeweling Polish. This is a water based polish. I only use it with a rotary, since technically jeweling should be performed by rotary. I have never tried it with a DA so I cant comment on it for that. It does not require more than a damp rag to prep for a coating. Like Optimum, it is SMAT.

CarPro Reflect
This is my new favorite. It does require removal of oils. I would use Eraser or a Nano-polish like Dura gloss squeaky Clean. It has absolutely no fillers, which aids big time for ensuring removal before applying a coating. This stuff adds gloss like no other. It uses a titanium abrasive which has to be seen to be believed. I jewel it with a rotary. It works great with a DA too. I have heard from a trusted source that it is amazing with a RUPES. It looks like a lotion. It is a diminishing abrasive that is very easy to apply and work in until it glosses.

I use a six inch Gold LC pad for either of these polish applications'. Both polishes have enough abrasives but not enough to leave holograms.

Thanks for your contribution !!! I here Reflect is great.
 
Swanicyouth, awesome thread and will keep this as a reference. I do have to say that SF4500 on a white LC 5.5" flat pad does correct swirls (dealer installed) and shallow RIDS on my '13 Toyota RAV4 with soft paint using a GG6 or Rupes LHR 15ES. It does nothing for the hard paint on my Mazda 3 though.
 
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