CarPro Reload as a topper for Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Paint Coating?

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Hey guys,

After 3 weeks and two washes with Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Coating Shampoo I have noticed the paint surface is starting to lose the slickness and some of the hydrophobic properties it had after the initial application of Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Paint Coating. It still has a very nice shine and gloss to it however.

I'm wondering, I know Mike had used one or two sprays of the black label paint coating per panel as a post wash QD spray and wiped it with a microfiber to regain some gloss, and that's a possibility for me, although I must admit not a very cost effective way of boosting the coating. I have been looking at carPro Reload and was wondering if that can be safely applied on top of the pinnacle to help boost shine and slickness?

How does Reload compare in regards to slickness and hydrophobic properties to Pinnacle Paint coating?

Any information would be greatly appreciated!

Macro
 
Reload is a great topper... and even works great as a stand alone LSP for those who don't have a coating installed.

Reload beads like crazy and adds a bit of depth to the paint as well. I use it more often than needed (once a month) to top my coating. I cannot tell any difference between the 22ple VX1 Pro coating and the coating topped with Reload - both surfaces are very slick.

Another great option is Carpro HydrO2. Simply spray it on, Spray it with water, and you're done. It has similar properties to Reload, but beads slightly better (although reload still beads GREAT, don't get me wrong). HyrdO2 will not last as long as Reload though.

Both products are quick, easy, and perform great on top of a coating!
 
Was Pinnacle Black Label Paint Coating formulated
to have "slickness" as one of its major attributes?

:)

Bob
 
zmcgovern45 said:
Reload is a great topper... and even works great as a stand alone LSP for those who don't have a coating installed.

Reload beads like crazy and adds a bit of depth to the paint as well. I use it more often than needed (once a month) to top my coating. I cannot tell any difference between the 22ple VX1 Pro coating and the coating topped with Reload - both surfaces are very slick.

Another great option is Carpro HydrO2. Simply spray it on, Spray it with water, and you're done. It has similar properties to Reload, but beads slightly better (although reload still beads GREAT, don't get me wrong). HyrdO2 will not last as long as Reload though.

Both products are quick, easy, and perform great on top of a coating!
Click to expand...

Great info, thank you! I might just have too look into that.

FUNX725 said:
Was Pinnacle Black Label Paint Coating formulated
to have "slickness" as one of its major attributes?

:)

Bob
Click to expand...

It's actually very slick when it cures, one of the slickest surfaces I have felt in all my years of using stuff. it just seemed to get less slick rather quickly for something claiming to last 3 years in optimum conditions. (FYI car is in California and always garaged, the coating had never even seen rain yet - just the usual dusting of airborne contaminants in LA ;))

Macro
 
I was really wanting to try a coating a few months back but thought it out and not for me.
I now use WGGPS , it gives me protection, crazy shine and so darn slick.
In about six months I get to do it again:)

This past weekend I tried the BF Ice Sealant, now this stuff really, really rocks:)

My main reason for not buying a coating is my RAV has a SS paint, sealants just suits it better.
Coatings are great for those that choose that type of protection.
But is it as slick as some of the high end sealants?
 
I was just talking today to another forum friend about these coatings, and I mentioned I had noted this seemed to be one quality that seemed to vanish quickly with the DP Paint Coating, the loss of extreme slickness after a wash or two.

Why, I cannot explain, but it seems that the other qualities did not leave.

In some past threads, I made mention of using some different toppers over the coating, as time passed. Some frowned upon this, as to why go through the trouble, and cost of a coating, when you're then going to top it with something else?

I would assume these coatings are durable enough to withstand most Sealants, either WOWA, or WOWO after, or quick detailing sprays, without much harm coming to them.

I too thought of the principle of what Carpro suggests, topping CQuartz with Reload from time to time to lengthen longevity, and enhance looks.
 
HateSwirls said:
I was really wanting to try a coating a few months back but thought it out and not for me.
I now use WGGPS , it gives me protection, crazy shine and so darn slick.
In about six months I get to do it again:)

This past weekend I tried the BF Ice Sealant, now this stuff really, really rocks:)

My main reason for not buying a coating is my RAV has a SS paint, sealants just suits it better.
Coatings are great for those that choose that type of protection.
But is it as slick as some of the high end sealants?
Click to expand...

From my own personal findings, the DP Paint coating was a lot more slick in feel than either WGDGPS 3.0 or Menzerna Powerlock, which I think were both pretty slick sealants.
 
For me, the main reason to look for a coating spray topper like reload would be to retain that incredible hydrophobic properties and self cleaning of the original coating, and of course it would keep that surface ultra protected, vs a sealant or a wax.

What would be really nice would be if Autogeek made a reload competitor that was proven to play nice with the pinnacle black diamond paint coatings they now are carrying!

Hint, Hint!

I will try the approach Mike outlined by misting on a spray or two per panel of the black diamond paint coating again after a wash and wiping it off with a MF. I am sure it will bring back that super slick feel and amp the gloss up as well, just have no idea how long that will actually stay on top of the original black diamond paint coating thats been applied.

Macro
 
I've never used black label coating so I can't say, but I can tell you it looks darn nice on 22PLE and Migliore Strata :)
 
macro said:
For me, the main reason to look for a coating spray topper like reload would be to retain that incredible hydrophobic properties and self cleaning of the original coating, and of course it would keep that surface ultra protected, vs a sealant or a wax.
Click to expand...
I just don't get your above analogy:

How in the World would the original Coating's (PBL's) incredible hydrophobic and self-cleaning properties
be manifested if they're covered-up with a spray topper like Reload?

Bob
 
FUNX725 said:
I just don't get your above analogy:

How in the World would the original Coating's (PBL's) incredible hydrophobic and self-cleaning properties
be manifested if they're covered-up with a spray topper like Reload?

Bob
Click to expand...

That's my question in a nutshell, per my original post about this I mentioned that the coating is LOSING some of those very abilities after 3 weeks and two washes (with black label soap).

I'm looking to retain those properties by adding a coating based spray every month or so.. As I understand it, that's exactly what reload is.

Macro
 
macro said:
That's my question in a nutshell, per my original post about this I mentioned that the coating is LOSING some of those very abilities after 3 weeks and two washes (with black label soap).

I'm looking to retain those properties by adding a coating based spray every month or so.. As I understand it, that's exactly what reload is.

Macro
Click to expand...
Again:
Even if it's possible...
How would you know if the PBL Coating was being "retained" if it
was being covered up with Reload or some other "topper"?

It's attributes, surely, would not be evident.

Bob
 
FUNX725 said:
Again:
Even if it's possible...
How would you know if the PBL Coating was being "retained" if any of it
was being covered up with Reload or some other "topper"?

Bob
Click to expand...

I agree with you - you wouldn't. And that's why I was asking about topping it first, as one of the main reasons I went with a coating this time was the idea that it would be super glossy, slick and protect all by itself for up to three years.

I don't want to top it with anything if I don't have to, but judging by how the slickness and hydrophobic properties of that coating has diminished since its first application it's got me trying to figure out an alternative.

Macro
 
Losing it's beading/sheeting properties?

Did you prep the paint correctly?
 
macro said:
I agree with you - you wouldn't. And that's why I was asking about topping it first, as one of the main reasons I went with a coating this time was the idea that it would be super glossy, slick and protect all by itself for up to three years.

I don't want to top it with anything if I don't have to, but judging by how the slickness and hydrophobic properties of that coating has diminished since its first application it's got me trying to figure out an alternative.

Macro
Click to expand...
Just to note:
Many of "The Coatings" attributes are not easily accepted by some that expect them to behave,
at least to a certain degree, as do Waxes and Sealants.

Another point:
One aspect of the car-washing process that is, oftentimes, overlooked:
If all of a car-wash product's surfactants have not been totally, thoroughly rinsed-off/removed...
they can actually cause the appearance that a Coating's (and other LSP's as well) attributes:
Have been compromised.

Check your PBL Wash's dilution ratio; and, re-wash/rinse, rinse, rinse. And rinse some more.
"Top-up"? If you so desire.

Side bar:
I'm no longer going to interfere with your choice of any Coating-topper(s).
^^^.........................{Good News, or what!! LOL}.........................^^^

:)

Bob
 
FUNX725 said:
Just to note:
Many of "The Coatings" attributes are not easily accepted by some that expect them to behave,
at least to a certain degree, as do Waxes and Sealants.

Another point:
One aspect of the car-washing process that is, oftentimes, overlooked:
If all of a car-wash product's surfactants have not been totally, thoroughly rinsed-off/removed...
they can actually cause the appearance that a Coating's (and other LSP's as well) attributes:
Have been compromised.

Check your PBL Wash's dilution ratio; and, re-wash/rinse, rinse, rinse. And rinse some more.
"Top-up"? If you so desire.

Side bar:
I'm no longer going to interfere with your choice of any Coating-topper(s).
^^^.........................{Good News, or what!! LOL}.........................^^^

:)

Bob
Click to expand...

That's a really good point. Next time I wash my truck, I will double check to rinse very thoroughly.

After all, it's only the 2nd time I have used the black label soap, and the directions are to use one pump per gallon, so I used 4 gallons of water and 4 pumps.

And don't get me wrong, the truck looks great - I used to use Wolfgang DGPS 3.0 and would top that as needed with CG hybrid V7, and that was a great combo for my grey Land Rover - this is even better and that's not topping it at all.

And by no means are you interfering, I am happy you are providing good info!

Macro
 
Forgive the crappy iPhone shot, but this was the truck after first applying the Pinnacle Black Label Paint Coating.

Not too shabby, especially for a grey color. :)

Macro
 
FUNX725 said:
I just don't get your above analogy:

How in the World would the original Coating's (PBL's) incredible hydrophobic and self-cleaning properties
be manifested if they're covered-up with a spray topper like Reload?

Bob
Click to expand...

I reckon the same could probably be said about those who top some sort of Sealant with a Nuba Wax. That certain qualities of the Sealant are now lost, or diminished.

The hard sterile shine is now warmed up (which some like), many Nubas are said to attract more dusts, and there's then the wonderment if a Nuba with their solvents that came behind after the Sealant, and then possibly compromised the Sealant in some respects (like possibly actually removing them?)

Thus, as some would maybe say, a waste of going through the trouble, and a possible waste of money of applying a Sealant in the first place?

I would "think", that a Coating would have a better ability to stay adhered to the paint (provided application was properly done), that almost anything that would come behind as a topper would at least not compromise its longevity as one quality of these products?

It seems the OP is then seeking a topping product to lessen the loss of other qualities that these Coatings possess. Which I think we all are interested to some point.
Mark
 
MarkD51 said:
It seems the OP is then seeking a topping product to lessen the loss of
other qualities that these Coatings possess. Which I think we all are interested to some point.
Mark
Click to expand...
As I mentioned before:
Some Coatings' attributes do not showcase the same attributes/qualities as other classes of LSP's:
"slickness/continued slickness" over its expected service life, as one possible example.

Who'd ever want any Coatings on their vehicles whose qualities/attributes were said as being compromised...being lessened...
by the use of something as seemingly benign like its supposedly synergistically formulated car-wash shampoo.
What chances, then, do these kinds of Coating stand against the other, and more injurious chemicals it will be facing?

IMHO:
"Topping" a Coating should never be a requirement, in order to keep it: Being a Coating.

Bob
 
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