Clay Suggestions for a New Stingray?

How bout I leave her be for now?

That's always a good game plan!

Get her home, park her in the Ga-rage, gawk at her, feel her lines, sit in her until the wee hours of the morning! Play the radio, inspect, admire, and think.

Think of how you want to protect, and ultimately enjoy this vehicle.

I can tell you, I spent many countless days and nights with my 1967 Stingray Ragtop.
All were priceless.
 
Now don't you go experimenting, with these different (and new to you) claying-products, on your new Corvette...Please!!


Bob

That's always a good game plan!

Get her home, park her in the Ga-rage, gawk at her, feel her lines, sit in her until the wee hours of the morning! Play the radio, inspect, admire, and think.

Think of how you want to protect, and ultimately enjoy this vehicle.

I can tell you, I spent many countless days and nights with my 1967 Stingray Ragtop.
All were priceless.

think you have the basics down for the stingray. i clayed my new c-6 when i got it, and i know i marred it some. thanks!
 
THIS!!!:iagree:

Congrats Lauren on the new 'toy'. :dblthumb2:

Seriously.... a combination of clay and the Nanoskin pad (or mitt) is exactly what you need. I held back on the Nanoskin for a long time at first then once you go there you'll never go back. Just make sure to break it in on a side window or your windshield first, following the directions (look for a little white foamy residue). That'll take care of most issues you may have when it's new that (could) cause marring.


What really seals the deal for Nanoskin is how long it lasts, AND the fact that if you drop it you can rinse it and keep using it on your vehicle. Where if you're using clay you instantly throw it away! :eek:

With three vehicles you've already mentioned that you need to maintain, honestly.... Nanoskin gets my vote! :)

Ricardo is a new name to clay here at AG, no biggie there which one you choose actually. Meguiar's clay has yet to harm any Vette I've seen and you can find it and Griot's clay locally. Griot's is pretty decent clay too. :xyxthumbs:


The Nanoskin product comes in pads for your buffer, and hand held sizes. The buffer pad really makes short work of the whole claying, paint decontaminating process. And imo is something that you REALLY need on that new ride.

Lube? ONR at QD strength is the 'go to' for most guys these days. Of course one of the old (but expensive) standards is Meguiar's M34.
autogeek_2269_36124608
Nanoskin has their own brand Banana Ice all of which work just fine.
autogeek_2268_484772192


IronX? On a new car, I think it's just as important as claying is. Microscopic iron particles that can come from the plant during construction and especially during hundreds, even thousands of miles on a train will be embedded in your paint and even though you buff it, they are still there. IronX actually dissolves the iron from within and leaves you a pure paint surface to work with. :props:

IronX is a stand alone product you would use by itself, or in your favorite shampoo. It also comes in it's own shampoo these days. Smells like a battery about to explode! :eek: The middle one is supposed to have a lemon smell, but I can't imagine it actually helping it that much. But it is REALLY good doing what it does. ;)

(Pink one is the soap.)

Speaking of lube, you can actually wash and IronX, then throw a little soapy water back on the surface and use THAT as your lube. :D I really wouldn't skip either of these steps. Done carefully you really don't have to worry about major marring. If you end up with some.... it's likely that hand buffing will remove it. Just do a few test areas and get the method down. (Maybe do it down low where nobody can see it!) :laughing:

I take it you don't want to buff it?
I only ask because it's been mentioned that you may end up with at least some marring. Dark colors show it worse than lighter ones, especially light metallics.

I'd just hate to have to deal with a new car, new paint, put in all the work then not take it to the next level. Then of course all the myriad of sealants that you have to choose from now. OMG.... :rolleyes:

Now aren't you happy you stayed away the last couple of years? Heheheeeee :laughing:

OTOH, just bring it down here to semi-sunny south of Atlanta where it'll be 17º in the morning ..... and we'll wait till spring for it to warm up..... then we'll make that puppy shine like a diamond. :props:

LOVE these ideas for the red c-6, the van and the prius!! sounds great!:props:
now the sealants...come on, throw me a bone here...which kind for which car? the paint on all is very good.Feed back please
yes my hiatus really makes this an adventure!

thank you EVERYONE!! I have learned SO MUCH - YOU ROCK, GUYS!Im the MAN:dblthumb2:
 
LOVE these ideas for the red c-6, the van and the prius!! sounds great!:props:
now the sealants...come on, throw me a bone here...which kind for which car? the paint on all is very good.Feed back please
yes my hiatus really makes this an adventure!

thank you EVERYONE!! I have learned SO MUCH - YOU ROCK, GUYS!Im the MAN:dblthumb2:

Per my PM Lauren.... I still like 'working' with the WOWO sealants. Something about that tactile feel putting them on, but better yet after they are off. It's a sensual tactile feel to the surface. Doesn't matter if it's Megs, WG or BF they all impart that certain 'feeling' to the surface once it's cured.

Move to the WOWA sealants like Blackfire Crystal Seal

OR Wolfgang Deep Gloss Liquid Seal



and it doesn't feel the same. Might just shine better though! But the last ones don't do diddley for hiding any imperfections. Jus' sayin'.....

You know what they say, the 6 P's. Proper Preparation Prevents Pi$$ Poor Performance. ;)

Glaze will go a long way towards hiding minor imperfections on all the cars on your list actually. Not durable at all, but it'll be slick none the less. :) Meguiar's #7 comes to mind and is actually a mild polish/paint cleaner that can be worked by hand or machine.

Short of breaking out the buffer and doing some polishing......

I'd just clay them all, (Nanoskin) then do any decent sealant (from my list or others, but of course mine is best) :joking:then call it a day. :D Im the MAN:D
Grab some Opti-Bond for the tires btw.

ORRRRRRRRRR..... with all those cars, grab a gallon of Megs 151, 3 white and 3 orange flat pads and go to town. It won't do TOTAL paint correction but by George it'll make them look better than they've looked in YEARS. (Which may indeed BE total correction on some cars.) :dblthumb2: And of course you can still top that with Megs M21 2.0 (or BF or WG) sealants.
 
This new Vette shouldn't be a Mack Truck that's been on the road for a 1/2 million miles.

Iron-X? Won't hurt, that's for sure, just keep it away from Rotors, or other steel. Spray on, spread with a moistened soft sponge, let sit ten minutes, then hose off.

Then, clay the car.

What would happen if you did spray iron x on the rotors or other steel?
 
What would happen if you did spray iron x on the rotors or other steel?
Yah - what happens?
I do not want to find out the hard way. I am trying this out on my van first.
 
Mother's Clay works best for me - doesn't leave smudges on my black car.
 
What would happen if you did spray iron x on the rotors or other steel?

With any steel parts, you're most likely going to see lots of rust bleed. And it will bleed, and it will bleed! It is what it is, a rust remover in effect. Those iron particles imbedded in paint are in fact "rusty iron-steel"

When I first used Iron-X on my Tahoe, there was tons of bleed around all the door handles, and rear tail gate handle that I thought would never cease.

Iron-X is sort of a soapy solution, which I imagine has quite a low surface tension in and of itself, and/or when combined with water. Evidently it has a quality of being able to creep into tiny little areas, crevices.

Slowly, this bleeding seemed to eventually subside, but had thought about possible re- occurences in something like a rainstorm, where I'd be seeing purple streaks running down all the doors again. I truly hope that doesn't happen.
Mark
 
Iron-X of course too is a fantastic pre-treatment on Coated wheels, dissolving rust before cleaning with soaps-shampoos. Any lead wheel balancing tape weights though, it will discolor them.

With beauties such as these Corvettes, they of course deserve to have their wheels removed periodically, and fully detailed in and out, both metal, and rubber, then replaced on the vehicle.
 
look who's back .... cannot wait to see pics of the Stingray. I am holding out for a Z06 in 2015.
 
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