What's this and how do I fix it?

[Sandpit]

I have recently purchased a 2007 Mercedes E63, which has black ceramiclear paint.

I've given it a wash/compound /wax and it looks alright from a distance but a closer inspection shows the weird swirling in the photo below.

Any suggestions on what it is and how I might be able to get it out?

 

[Just02896]

Looks kind of like rotary burn in the clear. Exactly which products did you use? Rotary or DA, which compound, etc?

 

[Andr3wilson]

That sort of looks like bad sanding marks that haven't been polishing out fully.

 

[mwoolfso]

Looks like that panel was repainted and the quality was not up-to-par. Do you feel those ridges as you swipe your had across the panel. If you don't feel them it's quite possible they are covered under layer(s) of clear or that it is just poor rotary skills.

If you do feel them then take some thickness measurements and see if wet sanding is an opportunity. Certainly seek second opinions from a local detailer as being right in front is better than any assessment from pics. Lastly, related to sanding you need to factor Ceramiclear into the mix since sanding can possibly remove this layer of clear; which is not the end of the world but does change how you approach polishing in the future.

 

[Kevin Cullen]

Looks like someone buffed the paint with a rotory and wool pad before the paint had cured and it was soft.

 

[Sandpit]

Looks kind of like rotary burn in the clear. Exactly which products did you use? Rotary or DA, which compound, etc?

The only work I have done is by hand. Swirl-X, then Meg's ultimate polish then wax.

Looks like that panel was repainted and the quality was not up-to-par. Do you feel those ridges as you swipe your had across the panel. If you don't feel them it's quite possible they are covered under layer(s) of clear or that it is just poor rotary skills.

If you do feel them then take some thickness measurements and see if wet sanding is an opportunity. Certainly seek second opinions from a local detailer as being right in front is better than any assessment from pics

This is pretty much the way I am leaning . Can't feel them by hand. The quality of painting here in the UAE is awful, have seen work which looked like it was done with a house paint brush. My bet is that some clown has hit it with a rotary buffer too early, in addition to knowing sfa about how to use one and this is the result. Pity.

Thanks for the input guys.

 

[Tato]

This may be a lot of things related to previous re-painting procedures as stated, but I'm +1 on the sanding marks not properly removed on this part you show in the pictures...

If you're not comfortable with it sanding/polishing, you may need professional help for hand or (better) machine sanding with some 3000 discs, at least. However, before sanding, I'd always try a least abrasive approach first, to see how this defect would react.

Remember, always use the least abrasive method to get the job done.

Good luck, hope to hear about your outcome.

Kind Regards.

 

[Sandpit]

This may be a lot of things related to previous re-painting procedures as stated, but I'm +1 on the sanding marks not properly removed on this part you show in the pictures...

If you're not comfortable with it sanding/polishing, you may need professional help for hand or (better) machine sanding with some 3000 discs, at least. However, before sanding, I'd always try a least abrasive approach first, to see how this defect would react.

Remember, always use the least abrasive method to get the job done.

Good luck, hope to hear about your outcome.

Kind Regards.

Thanks Tato.

I just took delivery of a G220v2 so will see what I can do. Any particular recommendations on what to start with? I see Wolfgang swirl remover gets a lot of good mentions, although I suppose as you say, start easy.

 

[Tato]

Hi,

Working by machine will give you much more ability to tackle defects in the paint. I've worked by hand long ago and although getting decent results, no way to get 6000 perfect orbits (+ pad rotation) per minute with even pressure by hand...

WG Swirl remover will be great for you to start because you can also adjust it's cut by the pad you're using. I'd start on it with a white polishing pad. Have you got any?

Try to tape the area to get a 50/50 idea. Start on a SMALL area, mainly the size of a small MF towel (16x16) Work the product with moderate (but firm) pressure, spread the product over on speed 3, and then 'crank up' to 5 and work like said with slow arm speed during passes.

Remove residue with MF towel and inspect results.

Based on outcome, you'll know how to follow, just like this:

- Intervention removed defects - Reproduce the method over the entire hood or even the car, whenever you have similar defects.

- Intervention almost removed defects - This indicates you may try to work product at 6 speed and increase a bit the pressure, or step up to a cutting pad, like an orange cutting pad.

- Intervention did not touched defects - If after stepping up on speed and pad, maybe you need to step up to a stronger compound, or even go to sanding.

If you never wet sanded before, it's better to read a lot, use good sand papers/disc and even try first on a test panel or on a hidden area of vehicle, like some part lower in bumpers.

Even that test on bumper maybe not sufficient, because paint on plastic parts responds (generally) differently to paint on metal parts. What I've observed is that on plastic paint seems to feel harder, and I (generally) step up the pad when polishing painted plastic bumpers IF I am to remove severe defects.


PS: All typed above are hypothesis of how you should deal after analyzing the test spot.

I mean, you should try the polishing pad and 'traditional' polishing technique and see how it responds. Based on that, you have to think and decide how to proceed - Step UP, DOWN, or Reproduce Success technique on the rest.

Hope I've made it clear,

Please, ask if you have any question.

Kind Regards,

Good luck.

PS2: I also do have G220v2, so if you need support on the machine, also, contact me.

 

[Flash Gordon]

Looks like someone drew on your car with a green sharpie pen

That other stuff looks like orange peal

 

[Ted S.]

Looks like some bad compounding. Diesel and a torch should get rid of it for sure, but I'm sure there are much more affordable fixes.

 

[Ted S.]

Looks like some bad compounding. Diesel and a torch should get rid of it for sure, but I'm sure there are much more affordable fixes.

Of course, if these are waves (varying paint depths) in the paint, you can compound and polish the waves all day, or until you are out of clear, but all you will do is make the waves shinier and swirl free.

I'm almost thinking that the paint will have to be leveled out, as from what is mentioned above: sanding. If possible or feasible, and you have the skillset to correct this yourself, use a PTG to see if there is enough paint.

Will a PTG even work on that kind of paint? Thats what I would look into next....

 

[cagui1223]

Looks like someone drew on your car with a green sharpie pen

That other stuff looks like orange peal

The green sharpie is the OP pointing out the swirls on the surface. Notice how the circle overlaps the pen resting on the surface.

Its unfortunate about the swirls. When you do fix it, let us know the method you used.

 

[Tato]

I'm pretty afraid polishing alone won't solve at all, but I've suggested a small test spot (not too small (16x16) to work the polish better on surface) just to get in contact with defects and see how paint would respond.

Based on that, you can see how further you can or MAY go on this.

'Good luck',

... always find the least abrasive method to get the job done...

Kind Regards.

 

[Sandpit]

Of course, if these are waves (varying paint depths) in the paint, you can compound and polish the waves all day, or until you are out of clear, but all you will do is make the waves shinier and swirl free.

I'm almost thinking that the paint will have to be leveled out, as from what is mentioned above: sanding. If possible or feasible, and you have the skillset to correct this yourself, use a PTG to see if there is enough paint.

Will a PTG even work on that kind of paint? Thats what I would look into next....

I can get access to a PTG. Will see what results I get.

I'm pretty afraid polishing alone won't solve at all, but I've suggested a small test spot (not too small (16x16) to work the polish better on surface) just to get in contact with defects and see how paint would respond.

Based on that, you can see how further you can or MAY go on this.

'Good luck',

... always find the least abrasive method to get the job done...

Kind Regards.

Thanks for the comprehensive advice. I will need to get a few supplies in and will then give it a try and see what works.

Appreciate all the input guys. May be a while before I get back to report on results.

 

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

The affected area shown is indeed a repair from a body shop. The prep work prior to painting was not 100% perfect.

The only way to fix it is to have the affected area re done by a top notch body shop.

 

[Ted S.]

The affected area shown is indeed a repair from a body shop. The prep work prior to painting was not 100% perfect.

The only way to fix it is to have the affected area re done by a top notch body shop.

This is interesting, I didn't even thing about body repairs. If this is the case, they really half-assed sanding down the bondo or fiberglass or whatever they used....

If this is the case and the paint is not the problem, then I will have to recommend Smack's suggestion unless you have extensive body repair and refinishing experience and the facilities to boot.

 

[Sandpit]

The affected area shown is indeed a repair from a body shop. The prep work prior to painting was not 100% perfect.

The only way to fix it is to have the affected area re done by a top notch body shop.

Yeah, that's what I am afraid of. Can't feel the imperfections by hand, which just means they have put enough clear on to fill the valleys.

Will take it to a decent body shop here (if such a thing exists) and see what they think.

When I got the car the paint was oxidised over the center of the hood. Cleaned up ok with Swirl-X, but then I could see this c^%p underneath.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Can't feel the imperfections by hand,

What you want to do is what I call troubleshooting. Most troubleshooting for paint defects means using some painter's tape to see what you can and what you cannot do or affect on the surface. It's only surface defects that any of us can fix.


Here's how to troubleshoot this problem...

When you get your polisher, place a tape-line using painter's tape right smack down the middle of the affected area.

Now... ONLY polish on one side of the tape line. Start with a fine or medium cut polish. The SwirlX is a fine cut polish. The Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover is a medium cut polish. A product like Wolfgang Uber Compound or Meguiar's Ultimate Compound would be considered an aggressive compound. (See my article here)


After buffing the section for 4-6 section passes stop polishing, wipe the residue off and inspect closely to see if you AFFECTED the side you polished.

By the word affected, I mean did removing a little paint from this side make the visible defects go away or reduce them?

If it did, then remove the tape and buff the entire area and your paint problems will be gone.

If it didn't then you can try more polishing with a more aggressive product to see if more buffing does the trick.

Once you come to the conclusion that working on the surface has zero effect that's your clue that the defect is NOT topical but UNDER the clear and no amount of buffing is going to have any effect.


Hope that helps...

 

[Sandpit]

What you want to do is what I call troubleshooting. Most troubleshooting for paint defects means using some painter's tape to see what you can and what you cannot do or affect on the surface. It's only surface defects that any of us can fix.


Here's how to troubleshoot this problem...

When you get your polisher, place a tape-line using painter's tape right smack down the middle of the affected area.



Once you come to the conclusion that working on the surface has zero effect that's your clue that the defect is NOT topical but UNDER the clear and no amount of buffing is going to have any effect.


Hope that helps...

Thanks for the advice. Makes sense to me. Nothing to lose by giving this a shot.