Paint coating. Which one???

well i get paid tomorrow so i already have my order in the basket. Just waiting for my check to make its way to my bank account. So here is my pending order.

Carpro denim pads (i have dealer orange peel)
Megs M100
Iron x
Carpro eraser
Cquartz UK kit w/reload

So correct me if im wrong. Im going to do a paint correction but then CarPro recomends i use the "eraser" to remove all oils. So after i remove the orange peel, which i was going to do regardless, polish the paint but dont use a glaze and wax? Or is the carpro eraser unnecessary?
 
If you do not own a paint depth gauge, I highly recommend that you NOT remove the orange peel. Is it very easy to remove a ton of material, and OEM paint is already very thin. I would only remove orange peel if the car was repainted and the repainted panels did not match the texture of the original paint.

M100 is a mid-tier compound that was only designed for use with wool pads. You may be better served by Menzerna FG400 -- it is a more versatile product with a decent amount of cut. I would also follow up with a finishing polish, such as Menzerna SF4000 or CarPro Reflect. 1-stepping with a compound is not going to yield you the gloss or appearance that you'll be happy with.

After final polishing, you need Eraser or a 50%+ IPA solution to remove the polishing oils. These oils tend to be very stubborn and require multiple wipedowns to remove. If they are not properly removed, the coating will not bond properly.
 
well i get paid tomorrow so i already have my order in the basket. Just waiting for my check to make its way to my bank account. So here is my pending order.

Carpro denim pads (i have dealer orange peel)
Megs M100
Iron x
Carpro eraser
Cquartz UK kit w/reload

So correct me if im wrong. Im going to do a paint correction but then CarPro recomends i use the "eraser" to remove all oils. So after i remove the orange peel, which i was going to do regardless, polish the paint but dont use a glaze and wax? Or is the carpro eraser unnecessary?

When applying a paint coating, the key is in the prep. Key points are that you want to remove the majority of surface defects so they are not 'trapped' beneath the coating. You also need the surface to be surgically clean before applying the coating so there is nothing interfering with the coating bonding to your paint.

The recommended process would be to:
- Thoroughly wash vehicle
- Decontaminate paint (iron x and clay)
- Wash again if desired
- Paint Correction (compound if needed, followed by polish... if you are going to be using the denim pads, proceed with caution. be sure to have a paint thickness gauge for peace of mind.)
- Wash the car again to eliminate any dust or splatter
- Follow with surface cleanser like Eraser to remove any remaining polishing oils or residue that may be on the paint (not detectable with the naked eye, so you will not see this residue)
- Once you are certain the paint is completely clean, proceed with applying the coating as directed.
 
I also agree that there really is no wrong choice and just like waxes and sealants, each one excels in its own way and not everyone will agree.

As far as Opti-Coat not looking good, I think this gets exaggerated way too much. Yes, the glass coatings (at least the ones I've tested) do without a doubt darken/richen the paint more, making them slightly more glossy. However I feel most people, especially the clients, would be hard pressed to see a definite difference on well prepped paint unless they are side by side on a panel with a hard tape line.

Lets just say Ive never had a client say, "gee, this Opti-Coat doesn't have much gloss...." ;)

Some OC jobs


















CQuarts Finest jobs













22ple

 
Love your work & your garage Rasky. You just ended this thread, OC for the win.
 
I also agree that there really is no wrong choice and just like waxes and sealants, each one excels in its own way and not everyone will agree.

As far as Opti-Coat not looking good, I think this gets exaggerated way too much. Yes, the glass coatings (at least the ones I've tested) do without a doubt darken/richen the paint more, making them slightly more glossy. However I feel most people, especially the clients, would be hard pressed to see a definite difference on well prepped paint unless they are side by side on a panel with a hard tape line.

Lets just say Ive never had a client say, "gee, this Opti-Coat doesn't have much gloss...." ;)

Very, very, very true statement... I will also say I have never had a customer complain about the appearance of OC nor have I ever been "let down" by the way it looked after application. I did have a customer mention he did not like the tactile feel of his paint after OC had been applied... simple fix: applied Reload once OC had fully cured and it was much slicker.
 
Love your work & your garage Rasky. You just ended this thread, OC for the win.

LOL! Thanks!

Very, very, very true statement... I will also say I have never had a customer complain about the appearance of OC nor have I ever been "let down" by the way it looked after application. I did have a customer mention he did not like the tactile feel of his paint after OC had been applied... simple fix: applied Reload once OC had fully cured and it was much slicker.

Definitely!:xyxthumbs:

I actually dislike this attribute as well and I'm very upfront with my clients in that it will not have that slick feeling. I explain it's basically just like bare paint and most are fine with that, but as you mention I give them options for adding that slickness if they so desire. Reload, Hyd02, and even UWW+ all work great. :)
 
I did have a customer mention he did not like the tactile feel of his paint after OC had been applied... simple fix: applied Reload once OC had fully cured and it was much slicker.
Wow!...Getting "haptic data" from a Customer could be priceless for future detailing projects!!

New slogan:
Tactual is Factual!

Nit-Picking:
I always thought that tactile, and feel, were nearly synonymous.


Bob
 

This is outstanding, considering white, along with grey & silver; aren't easy to gloss up like black & red.

Do you have any experience with Migliore Strada? DP's & Migliore's are the two coatings I'm considering, given that I have zero experience with this type of product.
 
Nit-Picking:

I always thought that tactile, and feel, were nearly synonymous.





Bob

They are synonymous... It felt weird typing it, but no time to think when quick replying via phone... Doesn't surprise me that you would point it out though :)
 
This is outstanding, considering white, along with grey & silver; aren't easy to gloss up like black & red.

Do you have any experience with Migliore Strada? DP's & Migliore's are the two coatings I'm considering, given that I have zero experience with this type of product.

I have not. Other than those 3 listed above I've only used the regular CQuartz and GTechniq C1. I do have samples of a few others, but I simply haven't had time to test them. :/
 
^It does add some time... it is just a matter of preference. I personally enjoy the silica coatings due to their tactile feel and insane gloss, and I do top mine, but definitely not every wash. I apply reload every few months just for a bit of added protection. The reality of it is that any coating is a good choice if you are seeking maximum protection (I use OC often as well as CQUK & Finest), there are just certain characteristics of one product that may suit someone better than another product.[/QUOTE]

I have to ask, but which are "silica coatings" you mentioned you use? I also have a brand new white 2014.

I also am considering a coating. I do spend time with my car often, I, like most here have many traditional sealants and waxes, but am looking for a more durable paint protection base. Protection from scratches, road stuff, enviromental pollution, good mar protection. I will top with something now and then, probably something that goes with whatever base used. Every two years or so it will need more love again, I'm sure.

People are mentioning black vehicles here, I did get rid of my black "part time job" and opted for white this time.

So many coatings are mentioned, C1, Cquartz UK, Cosmic 9H. Which if any would work best for white, for that base protection i'm looking for? This seemed like a perfect time to chime in for some thoughts.

Thanks,
Larry
 
^It does add some time... it is just a matter of preference. I personally enjoy the silica coatings due to their tactile feel and insane gloss, and I do top mine, but definitely not every wash. I apply reload every few months just for a bit of added protection. The reality of it is that any coating is a good choice if you are seeking maximum protection (I use OC often as well as CQUK & Finest), there are just certain characteristics of one product that may suit someone better than another product.

I have to ask, but which are "silica coatings" you mentioned you use? I also have a brand new white 2014.

I also am considering a coating. I do spend time with my car often, I, like most here have many traditional sealants and waxes, but am looking for a more durable paint protection base. Protection from scratches, road stuff, enviromental pollution, good mar protection. I will top with something now and then, probably something that goes with whatever base used. Every two years or so it will need more love again, I'm sure.

People are mentioning black vehicles here, I did get rid of my black "part time job" and opted for white this time.

So many coatings are mentioned, C1, Cquartz UK, Cosmic 9H. Which if any would work best for white, for that base protection i'm looking for? This seemed like a perfect time to chime in for some thoughts.

Thanks,
Larry

There are many silica coatings (aka glass or quartz coatings)... common ones are CQuartz, CQUK, CQFinest, 22ple, etc etc.

1014418_342684272536365_2089142124_n.jpg

^2014 Optima wearing CQFinest
 
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