2 passes and still scratches

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taej

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Hello all,

First of all I want to say, I AM EXHAUSTED! Today was my first attempt at the whole car detail process. So far I am on the polishing process and taking a break. Claying the car was not fun. Anyways, I am having issues with correction. I have a jet black bmw (soft paint so I heard), and I am using GG6 with Mezerna FG400 and microfiber cutting pad. I am using the max speed on the GG6, and I went over an area 2-3 times with 6 passes, but still lots of scratches remain. Either I need to get a harsher compound or get a different pad. Either way, I am thinking of returning the GG6 and picking up a stronger polisher such as the rupes 21. Please help!
 
Are you putting enough pressure and Should be on speed 5-6 we doing paint correction. What kinda of car are you working on? Arm speed also makes a big difference. I have a GG6 and have no problem correcting any kinda of paint.
 
Please define scratches. Are you seeing swirls that were there before compounding and remain still afterwards. Or is it possible that your seeing marring left behind from not working the FG400 long enough to break down?
 
Better polisher for the first piece of advice, and are you blowing the microfiber pad out after each section?
 
Are you cleaning pad after each section. Microfiber gets matted down and become ineffective. 400 is a one step polish and may not be strong enough.
 
Pureshine said:
Are you putting enough pressure and Should be on speed 5-6 we doing paint correction. What kinda of car are you working on? Arm speed also makes a big difference. I have a GG6 and have no problem correcting any kinda of paint.
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Yup, I put as much pressure as I could, maybe i need to move slower. It's a bmw sedan in jet black.
 
Just02896 said:
Please define scratches. Are you seeing swirls that were there before compounding and remain still afterwards. Or is it possible that your seeing marring left behind from not working the FG400 long enough to break down?
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I think the swirls were taken care of, but their are scratches that are still visible. Not deep enough where my finger nail get's caught in it, but deep enough that I guess I might need a better compound. Yup I used it long enough till it became flaky.
 
Vrtcl said:
Are you cleaning pad after each section. Microfiber gets matted down and become ineffective. 400 is a one step polish and may not be strong enough.
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That might be the problem. I am using Mike's on the go method of just using a terrycloth towel over the polisher and turning it on for a few seconds, but I feel like i need to use a better method to clean the pad. I have the pad brush that I have yet to use. I'll give that a try next.
 
Keep in mind that when you remove swirls and clear up the paint, the deeper scratches become more visible. I not sure if anyone has mentioned this yet, but make sure that your pad is spinning because with too much pressure you can bog down the GG. While it may sound cliché to say this, technique is more important than tools. Do not be so hard on yourself, the pictures you see posted on AGO are from people who have generally corrected many vehicles. I felt the same as you the first time I tried to correct my paint. It took me several times to get it right.
 
After ever section you need to clean the pad its key in using MF pads and you don't need another polisher. Slow your arm speed dawn and with MF pads you don't need a lot of pressure let the pad do the work. If you have compressed air that is best way to clean MF pads.
 
Vrtcl said:
Are you cleaning pad after each section. Microfiber gets matted down and become ineffective. 400 is a one step polish and may not be strong enough.
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FG 400 is not a one step polish it is a very strong cutting compound, one of the strongest in the Menzerna line, and will be more than plenty for removing swirls from any paint.

Also the GG6" is a very capable machine, check to make sure your pad is spinning when you are using it as it can be stopped with too much pressure.
 
Just an FYI, you can't always polish/compound out deep scratches. Pics would be helpful. But here are 10 commandments of correction I just made up:

1. The pad needs to be clean

2. The pad needs to be primed (all fibers wet - but not too wet or "hyper lubricated")

3. Your arm speed should be as slow as 1" a second - measure your area and count slowly in your head. If it's 16", slowly count to 16

4. Your downward force on the polisher needs to be about 15lbs.

5. A Rupes may correct faster and finish better, but there is nothing a Rupes can do a GG6 can't with the correct technique. I have both machines - trust me there.

6. The pad needs to remain parallel to the polishing surface and remain spinning. Mark your BP with a Sharpie.

7. A spritz of DI water can make cutting a bit more aggressive.

8. You have to check the pad is not getting too hot. Heat helps nothing, created dust, & destroys pads.

9. I wouldn't go above speed 5 with MF pads.

10. Do a test spot on the worse scratched area. If you can fix or improve the worse area, the rest should be easy.

Can I get an Amen my brutha?
 
Im surprised I havnet seen it mentioned here - isnt the rule of thumb if you can catch your fingernail on it, 99.9% chance a DA wont be able to fully correct it?

To me, a "scratch" is something I can catch my fingernail on, therefore I couldnt really use a DA to fix.
 
You may want to use something other than FG400 since it diminishes to more of a polish but it's a good cutter. It could take a lot of passes with FG400 to get deeper scratches. What you've determined is that your combination isn't cutting deep enough for your preference so you're going to need to switch your pad to one that cutsm more or your compound to something that cuts longer. A SMAT like Meguiars 105 or 101 will continue to cut and not diminish into a polish like FG400. Just remember you're going to be removing more clear coat if you go after those deeper scratches. That means if you don't know what caused them and can't keep them from re-occurring you may be better off leaving them alone and settle for just removing the swirls. Best wishes on getting the finish you're seeking.
 
Ok. Thank you all! I am going to pop an excedrin and go at it again. It seems my problem is I am covering too big of an area, and moving fast. I will try very small sections at a time and go slowly and put enough pressure but not enough to bog it down. And here I go.
 
So if that is the case for OP or the next guy, what would the options be? Just touch up paint?

Helltopay said:
Keep in mind that when you remove swirls and clear up the paint, the deeper scratches become more visible. I not sure if anyone has mentioned this yet, but make sure that your pad is spinning because with too much pressure you can bog down the GG. While it may sound cliché to say this, technique is more important than tools. Do not be so hard on yourself, the pictures you see posted on AGO are from people who have generally corrected many vehicles. I felt the same as you the first time I tried to correct my paint. It took me several times to get it right.
Click to expand...
 
taej said:
I think the swirls were taken care of, but their are scratches that are still visible. Not deep enough where my finger nail get's caught in it, but deep enough that I guess I might need a better compound. Yup I used it long enough till it became flaky.
Click to expand...
When FG400 flakes out I turn the speed down and get better results. You're building heat and drying it out too much. Try a lower speed, less pressure, and slow movement. Let the pad and the compound do the work. MF pads don't respond well to pressure.
 
chris11le said:
Im surprised I havnet seen it mentioned here - isnt the rule of thumb if you can catch your fingernail on it, 99.9% chance a DA wont be able to fully correct it?

To me, a "scratch" is something I can catch my fingernail on, therefore I couldnt really use a DA to fix.
Click to expand...

taej said:
Not deep enough where my finger nail get's caught in it
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?
 
I have a thrashed black Audi Blackbird in my shop right now. Even after wet sanding with the Duetto and the Mini with 3000 grit there are still visible scratches. You're not going to get them all and I won't either. The combo you are using is fine. Slow down your arm speed to a maximum of 1 inch per second, keep the pads clean, keep pressure on the polisher to about 2 pounds, and do not get upset. Remember also that correcting with very aggressive pads and polishes will very often reveal more serious defects in the paint, such as solvent pop, that were previously hidden. Good luck!
 
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