New truck has water spots...plus a few other questions

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bacchus

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A little background:

I just bought a new truck(F150) that sat on the lot for like a year before it was sold to me...got an excellent deal. It is the blue jeans color which is a metallic navy blue. However, all that sitting it has developed water spots i'd like to get rid of. The dealership said they would detail it but don't have much faith they will do it right so i'll do it myself.

I have been reading a few threads and researching the best way to get rid of water spots which has led me to more questions. So it is my understanding for water spots you should try the least aggressive methods on up. Here is what I have tried thus far:

1. Wash and dry truck...no dice
2. Clayed a section with water spots....no dice
3. 75 vinegar/25 distilled water solution....no dice

I'm turning to the experts for number 4. To me I need to go with a paint cleaner then if that doesn't work a polish? I am very nervous to use anything that actually contains abrasives but I realize this may be necessary. A few questions:

1. Can you recommend the best cleaner and/or polish to try and any special applicator I may need? There are so many choices it makes my head spin.

2. Am I on the correct path here...any other ideas to tackle the spots? I'm guessing they are type II.

3. Once I have removed the spots what is the longest lasting wax I can use?

4. What are the risk of claying, cleaner/polish and waxing. I'd hate to remove the watermarks but instill swirls marks or something.

I'm not looking for a show truck and i'll probably only wax the thing every 6 months or a year. Its a new truck and for now i'm excited to get it looking right. I'm sure as time goes on i'll lose some of that excitement. Anyway, any help will be greatly appreciated!
 
Odds are good you have at least some of those spots embedded in the paint by now. Do you have a polisher or will you be doing this by hand?
 
mwoolfso said:
Odds are good you have at least some of those spots embedded in the paint by now. Do you have a polisher or will you be doing this by hand?
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Planned on doing by hand. I do have access to an orbiter style electric buffer. Again I'm scared of doing more damage than good with an abrasive polish so any words of wisdom and product suggestions would be great.
 
bacchus said:
Planned on doing by hand. I do have access to an orbiter style electric buffer. Again I'm scared of doing more damage than good with an abrasive polish so any words of wisdom and product suggestions would be great.
Click to expand...

To do damage with a dual action polisher, you'd literally have to drop the machine on the car, so don't be nervous. Also, what style buffer is it, a black and decker one? if so, thats junk. I say, save some cash, get a porter cable kit, and tackle it all by machine. Literally you'll feel silly you were nervous after completing your first section.....:dblthumb2: You can get the wolfgang porter cable kit, get all your polishes pads and a sealant, and be done with it! it really is easy

Based on what you said, going at it by hand will be a really hard working scenario, you'll waste your arms. Seriously, get a polisher, a nice dual action one, and go from there. We were all nervous once, and I think we all felt silly when you realize how easy it is, and how it is virtually impossible to cause damage.
 
Long-term risk of continuous polishing can be eating completely through the clear in areas. Do it once and do it well and then do your absolute best to avoid it reaching a point where it needs any heavy cut. It may be worth considering to have the truck selaed or coated as it lasts much longer than wax and is more of a protectant than a finish product.
 
Would doing this job by hand be a huge challenge?

Can you recommend a sealant or coating that last much longer than wax? The only thing I have used in the past is nufinish which i'm sure is a joke around here but it does last at LONG time(at least the water beads for a long time).

Also if polish is what I need can someone recommend the least aggressive they feel will get the spots out?
 
^^You should read my response above

Most sealants last longer than traditional waxes, unless something like a BlackICE or something of that nature. Wolfgang, Backfire, Menzerna, all sealants that lasts longer than waxes.

As for polish, as I mention above, wolfgang ones are really noob friendly!
 
Are there any good polishes that I can get around town or should I order some?
 
cleanmycorolla said:
Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Ultimate polish can be found locally. As well as Mothers stuff too.
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Can someone school me on how compounds are rated based on aggressiveness? Applicator pads as well. I'm totally lost when it comes to that. Is there a rating or number I'm looking for?
 
Would doing this job by hand be a huge challenge?

How fast can you move your hand and for how long until it get's tired? Here's an analogy, hand saw versus power saw, who cuts more wood?

I agree get the PC Kit with WG products and enjoy the journey, we are all here to help.

Or you could reach out to a forum member / detailer in your area to hire them to do it for oyu.
 
I guess can get a bottle of polish and try a test area by hand. I'm sure i'll quickly understand whether or not this job will require a polisher. Not sure i'm ready to drop 300 bucks on a wolfgang porter cable kit.
 
The compounds are the most agressive and the polishes are milder. Depending on the work that needs to be done, you may not need to use the compound at all. However it's always good to have on hand just in case the polish doesn't work, or you have a bad scuff that needs more attention than the rest of the vehicle.

The Meguairs duo mentioned before worked great for the me the first time I used a dual action polisher, and I keep using them.

Many of your questions can be answered by plowing through threads here and reading through Mike Phillip's articles on this forum. I doubt there are many questions you could ask that he hasn't already answered in great detail.
 
Are there any risks to polishing by hand? I know the dual action polishers actually have some "dual action" to help polish and dummy proof the process as to not cause damage.
 
bacchus said:
Are there any risks to polishing by hand? I know the dual action polishers actually have some "dual action" to help polish and dummy proof the process as to not cause damage.
Click to expand...

You'll have zero arm strength for a while. Plus it probably takes 2-3x as long. The results won't be the same too. I think the fact a majority have folks suggest getting a machine should indicate maybe by hand isn't the best idea.
:dblthumb2:
 
bacchus said:
A little background:

I just bought a new truck(F150) that sat on the lot for like a year before it was sold to me...got an excellent deal. It is the blue jeans color which is a metallic navy blue. However, all that sitting it has developed water spots i'd like to get rid of. The dealership said they would detail it but don't have much faith they will do it right so i'll do it myself.

I have been reading a few threads and researching the best way to get rid of water spots which has led me to more questions. So it is my understanding for water spots you should try the least aggressive methods on up. Here is what I have tried thus far:

1. Wash and dry truck...no dice
2. Clayed a section with water spots....no dice
3. 75 vinegar/25 distilled water solution....no dice

I'm turning to the experts for number 4. To me I need to go with a paint cleaner then if that doesn't work a polish? I am very nervous to use anything that actually contains abrasives but I realize this may be necessary. A few questions:

1. Can you recommend the best cleaner and/or polish to try and any special applicator I may need? There are so many choices it makes my head spin.

2. Am I on the correct path here...any other ideas to tackle the spots? I'm guessing they are type II.

3. Once I have removed the spots what is the longest lasting wax I can use?

4. What are the risk of claying, cleaner/polish and waxing. I'd hate to remove the watermarks but instill swirls marks or something.

I'm not looking for a show truck and i'll probably only wax the thing every 6 months or a year. Its a new truck and for now i'm excited to get it looking right. I'm sure as time goes on i'll lose some of that excitement. Anyway, any help will be greatly appreciated!
Click to expand...

Don't be scared of a DA polisher. Its gonna be your best friend if you want those waters spots gone.

2013 F150 Supercrew Lariat 4x4 Ecoboost
Blue Jeans Metallic
Clayed
Polished with Menzerna 2500. Fine polished with Menzerna 4000
Sealed with Menzerna Power Lock Sealant
Interior trim protected by Pinnacle interior protectant
Tires protected by DP Gloss Tire Gel
Leather seating protected by Leather masters Protection Cream





 
^^One of my fav cars here. Yours and Chris' are my fav F150's. No offense to anyone elses :-)
 
nezff said:
Don't be scared of a DA polisher. Its gonna be your best friend if you want those waters spots gone.

2013 F150 Supercrew Lariat 4x4 Ecoboost
Blue Jeans Metallic
Clayed
Polished with Menzerna 2500. Fine polished with Menzerna 4000
Sealed with Menzerna Power Lock Sealant
Interior trim protected by Pinnacle interior protectant
Tires protected by DP Gloss Tire Gel
Leather seating protected by Leather masters Protection Cream
Click to expand...

Have you ever used the Pinnacle Black Onyx tire gel? I'm wondering how it holds up the to the DP tire gel? The DP is less expensive and it would be nice if I could get away with that? The Pinnacle hold up very nice, even through some nasty rain and I really like the finish it leaves.

You look like you're out in the "country"and I'm in N.O., so I'm sure you get the same weather we do.
 
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