First time DA user experience

[Stephan@FamouslyHot]

Hey all

Long time car care detailing fanatic, first time DA polisher user.

Detailed my 2011 WRB WRX today, well only was able to get to the hood, front fenders, and roof as of now.

I am using the Harbor Freight DA polisher, with the LC 5" backing plate.

Washed car with Meguiars Gold Class shampoo
Clayed sections to be polished
White polisher pad with Meguiars UP
Black pad with Meguiars UW

My test spot on the Subaru paint showed the light swirl marks were removed with the White pad and Ultimate Polish with speed 5

Everything came out well so far. Observation concerning the UW.. It goes on freaking light! Almost didnt look like I was applying any product, Used speed setting 3

I think the swirls for the most part are corrected, and wow I didnt realize how much work only a two step process is, with a machine.. Will take some getting used to with the polisher.

QUestion about pad care. My white pad fell on the floor, pad side on the cement.

Is it destined for the trash? Any point in cleaning it?

Thank you all for the massive amounts of information provided! Especially to Mike, Pureshine, lawrenceSA, tuscarora dave, zmcgovern45

I already have a few neighbors approaching me to do their car! WOohoo! Anyone know what to say? I would like to try detailing as a side busines to my full time job. I was thinking just asking for donations for now?

Thank you all!
Stephan

 

[CM8 6MT]

UP has more oils in it for a longer working time than its bigger brother, M205. In order to fully see the condition of the paint post polishing, you need an IPA alternative product like CarPro Eraser. There are similar products out there for this purpose.

All in all, soft paint like Subarus correct fairly easy even with UP. As far as your white pad falling on the floor, no worries. Pre soak it with a dedicated pad cleaner, throw it in the washer & your good to go. Pre-inspect all your pads even after they dry, this is what I do.

 

[HD.Detailing]

UP has more oils in it for a longer working time than its bigger brother, M205. In order to fully see the condition of the paint post polishing, you need an IPA alternative product like CarPro Eraser. There are similar products out there for this purpose.

All in all, soft paint like Subarus correct fairly easy even with UP. As far as your white pad falling on the floor, no worries. Pre soak it with a dedicated pad cleaner, throw it in the washer & your good to go. Pre-inspect all your pads even after they dry, this is what I do.

why do you say "need an IPA alternative"? IPA works just fine at removing polishing oils

 

[cleanmycorolla]

why do you say "need an IPA alternative"? IPA works just fine at removing polishing oils

Not all the time.

 

[CM8 6MT]

why do you say "need an IPA alternative"? IPA works just fine at removing polishing oils

Not all the time.

^^ What he said.

While IPA works, IME its not ideal all of the time. There are several factors that affect its performance. Paint type, its dilution percentage.

I always preach the "dedicated product" method. Meaning, I rather (and have had better results) with products designed for a specific purpose. I.E Car Pro Eraser, Griots Pre-Wax Clenser for removing polishing oils.

 

[Stephan@FamouslyHot]

Thank you for the replies. The pads and mf towels are in the washer.

What is the IPA wipe down for? Just to remove the oils to see any scratches that were covered up? I have read about it briefly but have never practiced that method yet..

Another observation while polishing and waxing wAs, I noticed I used a lot of liquid product and the pAds absorbed a lot of product. Is this normal? I primed the pads for first use, then applied an X to half an X to each section buffed. Each section received 6 section passes.
Thank you

 

[CM8 6MT]

Thank you for the replies. The pads and mf towels are in the washer.



What is the IPA wipe down for? Just to remove the oils to see any scratches that were covered up? I have read about it briefly but have never practiced that method yet..



Another observation while polishing and waxing wAs, I noticed I used a lot of liquid product and the pAds absorbed a lot of product. Is this normal? I primed the pads for first use, then applied an X to half an X to each section buffed. Each section received 6 section passes.

Thank you

Yes IPA (or alternatives) are used to remove & break down compounds/polish. They reveal the true nature of the finish, and ensure a clean surface for an LSP to adhere to.

As far as your observation on your pads, it depends. What pads are you using? Cheaper pads will absorb product, instead of keeping it on the surface of the pad where they belong. One you prime a pad when compounding/polishing, theres no need to apply an "X". Simply add 3-4 dots of product for each section.

This is where new users to machine polishing end up having a hard time. Usually using too much product. When dealing with liquid waxes, there is no need to prime the pad. You can apply the wax in an X, or circular motion. Although remember to spread the product far to maintain an even coverage and apply thin. I prefer applying liquid waxes by hand with a foam applicator. It takes 2-3 pea size dots to cover half a hood on most cars. Just to give you an idea of how "thin" you should be applying.

All this is just a generalization, and you will gain experience as time goes on and develop your own methods. Just remember, not all compounds/polishes behave the same, and will vary from paint to paint.

 

[Stephan@FamouslyHot]

Yes IPA (or alternatives) are used to remove & break down compounds/polish. They reveal the true nature of the finish, and ensure a clean surface for an LSP to adhere to.

As far as your observation on your pads, it depends. What pads are you using? Cheaper pads will absorb product, instead of keeping it on the surface of the pad where they belong. One you prime a pad when compounding/polishing, theres no need to apply an "X". Simply add 3-4 dots of product for each section.

This is where new users to machine polishing end up having a hard time. Usually using too much product. When dealing with liquid waxes, there is no need to prime the pad. You can apply the wax in an X, or circular motion. Although remember to spread the product far to maintain an even coverage and apply thin. I prefer applying liquid waxes by hand with a foam applicator. It takes 2-3 pea size dots to cover half a hood on most cars. Just to give you an idea of how "thin" you should be applying.

All this is just a generalization, and you will gain experience as time goes on and develop your own methods. Just remember, not all compounds/polishes behave the same, and will vary from paint to paint.

Thank you for your response. I am using the Lake Country 5.5" foam pads

The pads have been a PITB to clean, there was so much product in it.. I noticed the machine bog down slightly on the white polishing pad. The 2-3 pea size dots for half a hood is crazy. I was doing an X for each section which was maybe 6-8 sections I broke my hood down to.

Now, will those 2-3 pea size drops while compounding/polishing on a primed pad, work one section 4-6 section passes? Or will I need to stop during half way through the section passes? GReat info that I didn't know about. I also thought that applying a liquid wax by machine would result in better results.. From what I see, I think I may like the Meguairs NXT paste better than the Meguiars Liquid Wax... time will tell..

I like the Meguiars line because it's easily attainable at Walmart... All of those cool Menzerna and Collinite 845 stuff I can only find on Autogeek, and shipping is expensive unless the order is over 100$ or somesorts..

 

[CM8 6MT]

Thank you for your response. I am using the Lake Country 5.5" foam pads

The pads have been a PITB to clean, there was so much product in it.. I noticed the machine bog down slightly on the white polishing pad. The 2-3 pea size dots for half a hood is crazy. I was doing an X for each section which was maybe 6-8 sections I broke my hood down to.

Now, will those 2-3 pea size drops while compounding/polishing on a primed pad, work one section 4-6 section passes? Or will I need to stop during half way through the section passes? GReat info that I didn't know about. I also thought that applying a liquid wax by machine would result in better results.. From what I see, I think I may like the Meguairs NXT paste better than the Meguiars Liquid Wax... time will tell..

I like the Meguiars line because it's easily attainable at Walmart... All of those cool Menzerna and Collinite 845 stuff I can only find on Autogeek, and shipping is expensive unless the order is over 100$ or somesorts..

Lake Country pads are ok at best. I use their black foam pads for AIO's. Their a cheap pad that gets the job done, just takes longer. There are better pads that will give you a better finish, last longer and clean easier than Lake Country pads. Meguiar's and B&S make some of the best pads IME.

Meguiar's consumer level LSP's are decent. I prefer their M26 carnuba hybrid and their M21 synthetic sealant over any of the OTC offerings. Their waxes/sealants are not their strong points. Dont get sucked into the hype about waxes/sealants that this forum tends to inpose on people. Its ALL about polishing. Get several products from a variety of companies to become versatile. Like you I like Meguiars, but my arsenal includes brands from Optimum, HD, Ultima, Mothers, Chemical Guys, Zymol, Griots. Point being, dont just stick to one brand because youll miss out on what other brands have to offer.