The OFFICIAL Duragloss Enviroshild review thread, everyone!

gski said:
Nice. Thanks for the update. How did the cquartz application go?
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Not as easy as Enviroshield or Gloss Coat, but still pretty easy.
I've had experience working with other coatings such as OC Pro and Pro+ too so I have a good eye for high spots so that definitely helps.
 
Detailed a repeat customers vehicle this past weekend and it had DGNCC and after the wash it still had a great shine on it! The beads were small but oblong, so it was still doing it's job. The ride is outside 24/7 and washed about once a month, so a good test for this product.

I may have to get another kit based off of what I saw here!

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Jowillie said:
Wonder how long this last treatment has been on?
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I went back and noticed I posted the pics of the Yukon done last year and the date was Halloween, so it's been almost a year since I applied it.

I would also like to remind everyone that I applied a non coating to the Yukon this year, Collinite #476, the product I applied 2x's to get me through last winter.

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My wife's car had this coating applied 20 months ago. Still working fine with no boosters or toppers applied. Incredibly underrated product.
 
Within a couple weeks I'm surely going to be doing the pickup truck I posted pics of and the DGNCC was applied the beginning of November of 2014, so I will have another report for the group. Although I don't have any of the DGNCC left I will applying a quality product to the pickup truck after washing and using my Opti-clay HD towel and that product will be Ultima PGP. I'm using it because half the truck has their company graphics on it.

I expect the paint to still look great because of how the Yukon looked. I was pretty critical of this product at first but I feel it had to do with the temps I applied it in the 1st and 2nd time. It seems when left alone and applied in the right temp the DGNCC works best.

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I am now seriously considering having my new black XC90 Volvo professionally treated with "Ceramic Pro 9h." I would still use Duragloss Instant Detailer and Duragloss Aquawash for between and post washes.
What do you think? Talk me out of it.
Feed back please
 
Do it yourself for a lot cheaper and a sense of accomplishment. The kit comes complete with everything you need for $30.00. For this price you could do 2 coats in 2 days (leaving it inside if at all possible) and get pretty decent results. Also because of the price you could use more than needed if your a noob to applying coatings and still come out ahead!

Give it a shot!

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How is this not super popular??? I haven't tried it but it sounds almost too good to be true
 
Daviddear30 said:
How is this not super popular??? I haven't tried it but it sounds almost too good to be true
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You could say that about a lot of Duragloss products and much more often than not, they perform.

This stuff is great because it is so freakin' easy to use and is definitely more durable than any sealant.
 
OK... (As approved by Jerry B. at Duragloss.)

1. Wash with Duragloss 901. Dry

2. Use EnviroShield Squeaky Clean to remove road film and previously applied wax. It is a Wipe on wipe off product.

3. Apply NanoGlass Sealant After you have prepared your paint and have a very silky smooth surface, spray a small amount of NanoGlass onto the entire face of the applicator pad. Then on a cool surface, (50-80 degrees Do Not apply in Direct Sunlight) apply a thin even coat of NanoGlass onto 2x2 foot sections at a time, with circular and back and forth motions until product disappears. After product is dry, you can buff with #9003 polishing cloth and #921 Fast Clean and Shine, if necessary. A second coat of NanoGlass can be applied if desired.

4. If you should see streaks, remove by wiping Duragloss #921 Fast Clean and Shine with #9003 microfiber cloth and a second plush microfiber cloth to dry and buff.

Now, some questions for those experienced with product:
When is the best time to apply 2nd coat? I've heard that a second coat would even out the application. I know some DG products need to cure before applying next coats and this nano ceramic should be one of them.

There have been lots of examples of product use on this thread but few long term observations of longevity when left alone with reasonable maintenance (letting the DG Nano do what it's designed for--low maintenance). Will it hold up for a year?
This product seems like an incredible deal for the price.
Lemme know,Thanks.
 
Temp is critical to applying this product. It should be closer to 70 degrees and don't get it wet for 24 hrs and if possible let it sit in the garage for 24 hrs.

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It will be 2 years in March for my wife's car. Still going strong @21 months. For the money it's a no brainer.
 
Awesome info, KlasseAct. Time to heat up the olde coach shed.

That's powerful return-on-investment, SilverFox. I understand you can coat the paint, glass, plastics and wheels with DGNG. if so, there is no comparison in value to paying over $2,000+ for other treatments. I realize we're talking about different structured chemical products, but I don't think I will need to "graffiti proof" my ride yet.
 
silverfox said:
It will be 2 years in March for my wife's car. Still going strong @21 months. For the money it's a no brainer.
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If your using a heater you need to maintain that warmth for an entire day, closer to 70 is best. I initially applied it when the outside temp was 56 and that didn't cut it, so I had to wait a couple weeks till it was in the upper 60's but the warmer the better. I suggest 3-4 sprays for say half a hood and go back and fourth and side to side and wait a couple minutes and buff down.
Jowillie said:
Awesome info, KlasseAct. Time to heat up the olde coach shed.

That's powerful return-on-investment, SilverFox. I understand you can coat the paint, glass, plastics and wheels with DGNG. if so, there is no comparison in value to paying over $2,000+ for other treatments. I realize we're talking about different structured chemical products, but I don't think I will need to "graffiti proof" my ride yet.
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Jowillie said:
Awesome info, KlasseAct. Time to heat up the olde coach shed.

That's powerful return-on-investment, SilverFox. I understand you can coat the paint, glass, plastics and wheels with DGNG. if so, there is no comparison in value to paying over $2,000+ for other treatments. I realize we're talking about different structured chemical products, but I don't think I will need to "graffiti proof" my ride yet.
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I'd say there is a massive comparison in value between DG and some of the other resin, silica, and quartz based products. Some are slicker, some have more gloss, some bead, others sheet... it all depends on the product. (I've not used everything out there, but have used Cquartz (both of them), PBL, DG, GTechniq to name a few.)

I do know that DG doesn't fare well with hard calcified water!!! :eek: Probably saved the paint underneath, but it destroyed the coating(s).
(Had to buff it off of 2 vehicles after that mess.) :nomore:

On the durability issue... I can't claim 2 years on the 6 or so vehicles we've done with DG. Then again... can't claim that durability on any (other coatings) I've seen in the same price range. Not that some coating (or maybe most all of it) isn't still there, just the performance tends to go without some sort of 'booster' being applied regularly. Not that protection isn't there, as we've all been told, just that it doesn't behave as it did when new.

FWIW.... DG Aquawax plays well with DG coating. :dblthumb2: But..... if applied too soon, or too thick, it'll smear as well, on top of the coating. (Again, worse on dark and/or solid colors.)

Truth be told... I'm more likely to buff it off and put something else on in under a year, so there's that. ;)

On the application temp:
I'd say getting the temp to at least 65° (if not in the 70's) would be a darned good idea as well. :) You could of course take a lamp and cure areas once you get it all on. Something to be said for an infrared lamp that some of the 'pro' coatings call for, but halogen would work for heat. ;) One thing that is CRITICAL is not letting it get damp, not even *dew* needs to get on it for a few days when it's cool, and at least 24~36 hours when it's above 80°. The longer you wait, the better it cures. (Which they all continue to do for (what we've been told is) 30 days afterwards.)

As for 'layering'... that depends on the color of the paint, and whether it's a solid versus a metallic. I've had problems with it smearing, (as in it looks like too much product) when trying to apply a second coat within the first 24 hours. With black and red it's worse!
 
Duragloss Enviroshield is On Sale (along with other coatings) right now at AGs.
 
I picked up a bottle of nanoglass but do not have squeaky clean. I do have dg 601 / 105 - would it bad to apply 601/105 combo and then put nanoglass on top of it? I'm wondering if I should use nanoglass on my daily driver and use 601/105 for my weekend car. Any thoughts?
 
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