Is rotary "danger" overblown? DA necessary?

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acv987

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I have been reading these forums and have been considering getting a DA. Then I thought to myself "oh yeah I have a rotary in the closet!" My question is what can the DA do that the rotary cant? I have always heard of people scared of the rotary because of possibly burning the paint.
I have been using a rotary for years but doing bassically a one step polish with an all in one type product using a wool pad for more dull finishes or a foam pad for better finishes. I understand for a proper show can shine I need to do more steps with better products.
Is it worth getting the DA? Is the rotary really that dangerous, and have I just been lucky all these years by not burning paint?
 
Sounds like you already know the answer to your own question.

I like to say that "If you use a rotary only, compounding and polishing cars day in and day out, you will eventually make a mistake with it."

It just goes with the territory.

It's definitely a dangerous tool in the wrong hands. My definition of the wrong hands could be, those new to polishing who have no real mechanical ability at all, or the stiff necked over confident fool who couldn't possibly ever make a mistake.

If you have the foresight to take preventive measures like taping sharp edges, and have some general "respect" for the tool as something that could cause damage with a loss of focus, then there's not too much to fear.
 
I believe that you may be right about danger being overblown, however in this case it's better to be on the safe side.

I'll let someone else give more opinions on these, I just ask: have you ever inspected your rotary work with proper light to see if you left trails or holograms behind?

I've saw many cars polished with rotary only (mainly soft dark paints) that looked normal at conventional light conditions, but under my inspection lights looked horrible... not saying you are doing the same, but more than the danger of burning the paint, my concern is about people leaving too much holograms / buffer trails while using it.

Then they fill with glaze and let the customer discover the mess some weeks later.

Not bad because that means more business for me to correct, but I don't want to earn my life over other people's mistake.

Let's see what we'll hear.
 
Tato said:
I believe that you may be right about danger being overblown, however in this case it's better to be on the safe side.

I'll let someone else give more opinions on these, I just ask: have you ever inspected your rotary work with proper light to see if you left trails or holograms behind?

I've saw many cars polished with rotary only (mainly soft dark paints) that looked normal at conventional light conditions, but under my inspection lights looked horrible... not saying you are doing the same, but more than the danger of burning the paint, my concern is about people leaving too much holograms / buffer trails while using it.

Not bad because that means more business for me to correct, but I don't want to earn my life over other people's mistake.

Let's see what we'll hear.
Click to expand...
No I havent. I started using a rotary around 10 years ago when i was working for the epitome of "production detailing" shop. The goal was get cars in and out as fast as pissble. we did alot of work for dealerships cleaning up the used cars for them. I was primarily just doing one step polishes just to bring the shine up on the vehicles.
 
I would probably peel the paint off a car if I had a rotary. Although I am more experienced than the average detailer (many years for as a hobby); I would rather be safe than sorry and go with a DA. My suggestion would to get the Flex 3401 VRG. That would be the closest thing to a rotary polisher. The Flex is a direct drive DA and very powerful and can get the job done quicker than most of the other DA's. Some might suggest a Rupes DA, it is a matter of preference.....however, my choice would be the Flex 3401 VRG.
 
acv987 said:
I have been reading these forums and have been considering getting a DA. Then I thought to myself "oh yeah I have a rotary in the closet!"

I have been using a rotary for years but doing bassically a one step polish with an all in one type product using a wool pad for more dull finishes or a foam pad for better finishes. I understand for a proper show can shine I need to do more steps with better products.
Is it worth getting the DA? Is the rotary really that dangerous, and have I just been lucky all these years by not burning paint?
Click to expand...
How old are you...
Foam pads were not even around 35 years ago!

And there's no sense having your rotary
all alone in a closet:
Get it a DA (No, not the hairdo) for company.


Bob
 
If the paint I'm working on has a lot of defects I use my DeWalt 849x, I've used a rotary for many years and can honestly say I don't "burn" paint , not to say I never will but I am comfortable using it which is important before putting a rotary in your hands

Benefits.

Faster corrections, product flashes much faster than using my DA.
Works great if you have to do any sanding, I use my wool pad and 105 to remove any sanding marks.
I love to jewel paint, using a rotary is great for jeweling.
Love to put on a 4" pad when repairing headlights.

Since getting my DeWalt I find I don't use my DA nearly as much.
However on step two I use my DA to get that perfect finish.
 
FUNX725 said:
How old are you...
Foam pads were not even around 35 years ago!

And there's no sense having your rotary
all alone in a closet:
Get it a DA (No, not the hairdo) for company.


Bob
Click to expand...
I am 32 so by years I guess I mean around 10. I started with just wool pads, then a few years later picked up some foam.
 
I was in much the same position, having owned and used a rotary for over 30 years. I took the leap and bought a GG D/A and I'm sorry I didn't do it sooner. Nowadays, I still drag out the old machine for areas that need serious correction or color sanding (including headlights), but otherwise I'm all D/A. Less taping is required, less intense concentration, less cleanup and much less chance of doing any harm to the paint. I don't even wax by hand anymore, except when using a spray wax. Best hundred I ever spent. I only wish I would have made the move 10 years ago.


Bill
 
acv987 said:
I am 32 so by years I guess I mean around 10. I started with just wool pads, then a few years later picked up some foam.
Click to expand...
^^^Cool^^^

You also say you've done some reading about this
Rotary/DA subject matter. Have you read this article?:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/43684-hologram-free-rotary-buffer.html

In it Mr. Phillips relates:
"I also believe and use as my own practice changing the action of the tool for my last machine process on most projects".

And:
"Instead of taking a risk that you might be leaving swirls behind, or instead of taking the time to chemically strip the paint and thus waste time and potentially mar or scratch the paint, simply change the action of the tool for the last machine polishing step".


So...
Are you going to get a DA?

Bob
 
The rotory has more cut. As a result it's very easy to leave holograms in the paint. Where a DA can have just as much cut with the right pad and compound but it's nearly impossible to leave holograms.

I used a rotary for years. It's what I learned on. But after getting a DA I'm stress free and I like my results much better.

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using AG Online
 
BillyJack said:
I was in much the same position, having owned and used a rotary for over 30 years. I took the leap and bought a GG D/A and I'm sorry I didn't do it sooner. Nowadays, I still drag out the old machine for areas that need serious correction or color sanding (including headlights), but otherwise I'm all D/A. Less taping is required, less intense concentration, less cleanup and much less chance of doing any harm to the paint. I don't even wax by hand anymore, except when using a spray wax. Best hundred I ever spent. I only wish I would have made the move 10 years ago.


Bill
Click to expand...

Hey Bill

I am in your camp regarding waxing my car. I use DA too! You save so much time and you can coat the wax more uniformly by DA. I use a foam applicator to get the mirrors or the hard to reach places the DA can't. But it is really cool to see someone in the same camp I am. As for the spray wax I like the Optimum Spray Wax.

:iagree:
 
If you have a rotary in the closet, buy a Dynabrade head for it.
 
I work only with a rotary. I burnt pant on scrap panels while learning. Haven't had any issues since then. Using polishes like a Sonax Perfect Finish, I finish as good if not better than what a DA may be able to do.
 
I work only with a rotary. I burnt paint on scrap panels while learning during the initial days. Haven't had any issues since then. Using polishes like a Sonax Perfect Finish, I finish as good if not better than what a DA may be able to do.
 
I've never burnt paint on a panel while using a rotary but I have got my pad against a plastic molding, or on an edge between two panels a few times and had some resulting trouble. Live and learn.

To answer the thread title question...Yes, I believe the rotary "danger" is grossly overblown.
 
acv987 said:
...I have always heard of people scared of the rotary because of possibly burning the paint...Is it worth getting the DA? Is the rotary really that dangerous, and have I just been lucky all these years by not burning paint?
Click to expand...

I've learned on my own using the Makita 9227C and I had no experience what so ever, but I am no fool either. So, me personally, I believe it's overhyped, but I always believe I can learn do anything, just as good as any professional, well most anything. There are some things I just don't want to do. So, I put the time into learning. I've always had the mentality that the only difference between me and a professional, is they get paid to do it.

I let my brother use the Makita from time to time on his black car and he has not clue about it's potential destruction capabilities and all he's done is put swirls in his paint using a wool pad. Don't get me wrong, I would not recommend it to anyone. I always steer them to the PC DA.

Yes, I think a DA is warranted as someone else mention, you can use it after some major abrasive correction with the rotary. I have not used my rotary because the paint on my vehicles, except the pickup truck, is in great shape. However, I am going to use the pickup as a test mule and do a side by side paint correction comparison with the Makita and Rupes 21, just for giggles. The paint is hazed/oxidized, but I don't really care about the paint on this vehicle.

BillyJack said:
...I don't even wax by hand anymore...
Bill
Click to expand...

Can you say that really loud one more time. I don't do any work by hand anymore; well I still remove the polish and wax by hand.
 
I think i will probably get a DA but still use the rotary on quick one steps. I can buff out a whole car pretty fast with a one step product and a rotary. I will still do this for fast production type customers. I will use the DA for more serious compounding that I have less experience with. Thanks everyone for your opinions and knowledge. I have learned a lot on this forum in a short period.
 
I learned with a rotary, I bought a griots and preferred my rotary over it, however after buying a rupes 15, I stopped using my rotary with larger pads and keep it around for surgical polishing, and sometimes for pillars and headlights.
 
The danger is much overblown but the finishing issues are not. Rotaries can be very difficult to finish with especially on soft paint.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AG Online
 
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