Nanoskin Pad Marring, What did I do wrong?

[antti@561detailing]

nanoskin mitt comes also with same instructions...use it on the glass first...does anyone have experience with speedy prep towel...does it do the same thing?

 

[YankeeFan]

ed:


Done.


The clay marring 'per se' went away after 1-2 passes... however, this paint needed almost 3 steps in every section to finish in an acceptable manner.

Nice, bright work light, who makes it?

Thanks,
Howard

 

[Klasse Act]

Seems like marring is sometimes a result no matter what you do but what I always do when doing paint decontamination is use A LOT of clay lube, especially since I just make it up from rinseless wash!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online

 

[parttimer]

Speedy prep towel will mar as well.

Sent from my LG-E970 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Tato]

Hello Howard.

Glad you liked it. Once upon a time (kkk) - 3 years ago, I've filled my home with led bulbs (still have them).

Many of those bulbs I've ordered in bulk, some I've ordered more than needed, so they are just almost everywhere around the house for general needs and spares.

Unfortunately, it's not easy to find those gorgeous Light Stands you can get almost everywhere on US, we still have available mainly the Halogen option, which heat generation is not interesting for the kind of work we do. The price is also somewhat prohibitive.

That said, we have to improvise. Culturally talking, this is what you may hear being called 'The Good Brazilian Way' heheheh

Take a brief look:

From left to right, you may see 2 led stands, the best I could get here in terms of convenience of use. But they alone can't solve my problems.

I rely a lot on swirl finder light (a flashlight), I use it every time; then you can see a 'Cool white flat bulb' (~5500-6000K); on it's side you may see my 'Warm white home made 'handlight', and the 'Dual socket system' I may use to mix the bulb options if needed.

Up above, you may see a tubular led bulb (cool white) - (I also have a substitute in warm) fixed to a Microphone stand.

Far right, you may see the bulb you liked. It's fair bright, I admit more than I thought when I ordered. Please remember, this bulb was ordered 3 years ago, it must have evolved in some manner.

The stand is a 'table standard light stand', nothing 'special' about it. Although it's firmly build and possibility of positioning the lamp in many ways makes it good for the job. (I've stolen it from my living room kkkk)

The bellow picture, is not the same car of the previous picture I've placed on this thread:

You can notice I'm using both the Warm flat light, and the Tubular Cool White (upper left). It's interesting to notice how defects shows differently based on lamp's shape, size, and distribution of leds.

It's noticeable the diference the shape of lamp and kind of leds can make in the highlight of defects appearance.

One more below:

Based on severity of defects, I believe the 1-step polish proposed took care of the job.

Tough to beat, but for a DD and the intended, I liked the results.

*The pictures above weren't taken for a thread or customer demonstration, just part of my personal archive so they are not the most beautiful you may see and may relate to different angles and parts (not in an exact sequence).

Decided to share since they were related to the light you asked.

Hope that helps,

Kind Regards.

 

[YankeeFan]

Hello Howard.


The stand is a 'table standard light stand', nothing 'special' about it. Although it's firmly build and possibility of positioning the lamp in many ways makes it good for the job. (I've stolen it from my living room kkkk)


You can notice I'm using both the Warm flat light, and the Tubular Cool White (upper left). It's interesting to notice how defects shows differently based on lamp's shape, size, and distribution of leds.

It's noticeable the diference the shape of lamp and kind of leds can make in the highlight of defects appearance.


Tough to beat, but for a DD and the intended, I liked the results.

*The pictures above weren't taken for a thread or customer demonstration, just part of my personal archive so they are not the most beautiful you may see and may relate to different angles and parts (not in an exact sequence).

Decided to share since they were related to the light you asked.

Hope that helps,

Kind Regards.

Thanks so much for the detailed explanation of the lights you use, appreciate it!

Howard

 

[Roikins]

Hello Howard.

Glad you liked it. Once upon a time (kkk) - 3 years ago, I've filled my home with led bulbs (still have them).

Many of those bulbs I've ordered in bulk, some I've ordered more than needed, so they are just almost everywhere around the house for general needs and spares.

Unfortunately, it's not easy to find those gorgeous Light Stands you can get almost everywhere on US, we still have available mainly the Halogen option, which heat generation is not interesting for the kind of work we do. The price is also somewhat prohibitive.

That said, we have to improvise. Culturally talking, this is what you may hear being called 'The Good Brazilian Way' heheheh

Take a brief look:

From left to right, you may see 2 led stands, the best I could get here in terms of convenience of use. But they alone can't solve my problems.

I rely a lot on swirl finder light (a flashlight), I use it every time; then you can see a 'Cool white flat bulb' (~5500-6000K); on it's side you may see my 'Warm white home made 'handlight', and the 'Dual socket system' I may use to mix the bulb options if needed.

Up above, you may see a tubular led bulb (cool white) - (I also have a substitute in warm) fixed to a Microphone stand.

Far right, you may see the bulb you liked. It's fair bright, I admit more than I thought when I ordered. Please remember, this bulb was ordered 3 years ago, it must have evolved in some manner.

The stand is a 'table standard light stand', nothing 'special' about it. Although it's firmly build and possibility of positioning the lamp in many ways makes it good for the job. (I've stolen it from my living room kkkk)

The bellow picture, is not the same car of the previous picture I've placed on this thread:

You can notice I'm using both the Warm flat light, and the Tubular Cool White (upper left). It's interesting to notice how defects shows differently based on lamp's shape, size, and distribution of leds.

It's noticeable the diference the shape of lamp and kind of leds can make in the highlight of defects appearance.

One more below:

Based on severity of defects, I believe the 1-step polish proposed took care of the job.

Tough to beat, but for a DD and the intended, I liked the results.

*The pictures above weren't taken for a thread or customer demonstration, just part of my personal archive so they are not the most beautiful you may see and may relate to different angles and parts (not in an exact sequence).

Decided to share since they were related to the light you asked.

Hope that helps,

Kind Regards.

Hello Tato
How you been ? Busy ?
I'm still didn't finish the project Mostly because weather related, however I washed my car with 3 different ways , the foam spray gun and I use the DP extreme foam formula , with regular water pressure, then as you suggested I used soap with no wax in it, I found the Chemical Guys Citrus wash the best , I did use two pocket hand wash after the foam wash. Then it's started raining, as it always happens when I wash my car
Later I ordered the pressure washer foam bottle and decided to try that with my brand new Karcher pressure washer , it's kinda neat, it's on wheels and following you , very easy to use http://www.amazon.com/Karcher-Follow-1800PSI-Electric-Pressure/dp/B00J00J0WK
Of course I got the Menzerna SF4000, and addition the pads I showed you , I got the LC CSS gray pad. But I found that the Cobra Grey and Meguiars yellow can be used for the Menzerna as well ?
The reason I am writing here, when I made the orders from Autogeek, I ordered Mikes Complete guide to a show car shine.
And reading it I found out about these speedy prep towels , Opti- Eraser, and Nanoskin autoscrub pads , which I never knew existed))
So I did make a order for all three of these products and Nanoscin glide lubricant the big can of course Also I noticed the new tire cleaner and coating from DP, which is brand new product , did order that as well.
After reading these posts I am starting to doubt if I did the right choice trying to replace clay with one of these products.
As I understood that one black car you did had already swirl marks in there?
I don't have any swirl marks, but reading this, it could be possibility that I will make a swirl marks to the clear coat?
My clear coat is strong, as I did the test how you suggest, maybe I use just the towel not the pad, as I understand it's the most aggressive , I ordered all of these products in fine grade.
If I am going to use one of these then maybe I need something else instead of Menzerna?
Or better not use these products at all , as it can add some additional labor and the time I save not using clay, I will have to do more work with something additional to get rid of the swirl marks?
Also if I don't have any swirl marks, may be these products won't add any, if I use the right way and do a lot of lubricating?
It's been almost 5 months since you posted this, did you had a chance to use one of these products again for other cars? And the outcome was the same as this black car?
Does anyone else using these products?
Would like to hear feedback if someone does.
Thank you in advance


Sent from my using Tapatalk

 

[Tato]

Dear, how are you? This thread seems the proper place for your question.

Nice to hear you did well with the cannon, and let me know about Tire Coating!, I'm very inclined to try.

Also Glad you grabbed SF4000, it's a 'Sir Polish'.

If you're going to do one step polish after claying - at least, there's no mistake using Nanoskin, it works great and it's much faster than claying.

Even conventional clay offers some risks of marring, as best practice whenever I clay I polish or at least use an AIO / cleaner wax / 1 machine step to get rid of marring. Touching the finish to remove contaminants will likely mar the surface to some extent...

Marring vs Smooth Surface

The odds of claying is marring the surface, but the smooth, squeaky clean and reflective look you achieve with proper claying outweighs some marring by far.

Also, the clay marring / nanoskin marring can look bad sometimes but don't be fooled, it's a superficial marring that will go away with 'just a touch of a finishing polish'.

That said, after claying you're covered if you'll be doing the Menzerna 4000, it'll not only remove all clay marring but refine your whole finish, evenly, to a high gloss. Yes you can use all your pads with Menzerna, do the test spot and see which will work better.

The pics I've posted on this thread are somewhat on 'extreme side', to help exemplify the clay marring.

You see, this is a picture before even touching the car, not only horrible swirls but already marred:

This one is after claying with fine nanoskin, there's some added marring added by the claying step, like said, don't worry if you worked nanoskin correctly.

This picture uses a very 'critic' light, which allows to fully notice the marring, but added to existing ugly defects


After, defects and marring removed. As a side note, marring goes away after the first / 2nd pass.


**Don't forget to break your nanoskin on glass first, that means, Use it on glass first to remove the protective layer it brings when new. After working all glass you're good to go and use it on paint.

During process, you'll notice it's very straight forward and intuitive. You'll feel surface harsh, feel contaminants, and in few passes it'll go smooth.

Glide it, don't SCRUB. Use plenty of lube.

You'll also may be able to SEE contaminants going away, like overspray spots, etc.

Please, do not hesitate to ask if you need further help,

Kind Regards.

 

[Roikins]

Dear, how are you? This thread seems the proper place for your question.

Nice to hear you did well with the cannon, and let me know about Tire Coating!, I'm very inclined to try.

Also Glad you grabbed SF4000, it's a 'Sir Polish'.

If you're going to do one step polish after claying - at least, there's no mistake using Nanoskin, it works great and it's much faster than claying.

Even conventional clay offers some risks of marring, as best practice whenever I clay I polish or at least use an AIO / cleaner wax / 1 machine step to get rid of marring. Touching the finish to remove contaminants will likely mar the surface to some extent...

Marring vs Smooth Surface

The odds of claying is marring the surface, but the smooth, squeaky clean and reflective look you achieve with proper claying outweighs some marring by far.

Also, the clay marring / nanoskin marring can look bad sometimes but don't be fooled, it's a superficial marring that will go away with 'just a touch of a finishing polish'.

That said, after claying you're covered if you'll be doing the Menzerna 4000, it'll not only remove all clay marring but refine your whole finish, evenly, to a high gloss. Yes you can use all your pads with Menzerna, do the test spot and see which will work better.

The pics I've posted on this thread are somewhat on 'extreme side', to help exemplify the clay marring.

You see, this is a picture before even touching the car, not only horrible swirls but already marred:

This one is after claying with fine nanoskin, there's some added marring added by the claying step, like said, don't worry if you worked nanoskin correctly.

This picture uses a very 'critic' light, which allows to fully notice the marring, but added to existing ugly defects


After, defects and marring removed. As a side note, marring goes away after the first / 2nd pass.


**Don't forget to break your nanoskin on glass first, that means, Use it on glass first to remove the protective layer it brings when new. After working all glass you're good to go and use it on paint.

During process, you'll notice it's very straight forward and intuitive. You'll feel surface harsh, feel contaminants, and in few passes it'll go smooth.

Glide it, don't SCRUB. Use plenty of lube.

You'll also may be able to SEE contaminants going away, like overspray spots, etc.

Please, do not hesitate to ask if you need further help,

Kind Regards.

Olá, como vai você,Bom ouvir de você,Espero que tenha tido um bom descanso hoje
Thank you very much as always for the advice, you explain it so well, that no one else can You could be a good teacher
I understood now , after I wrote you I found more posts about it , as well from Mike itself.
I just got scared at the beginning when I saw your post with the swirl marks
Like I wrote ordered the biggest can they have with the lubricant specially designed for these things, but looks like regular clay lubricant works as well.
I saw that you spray the whole panel with the lubricant, is that better than spray just the section you are working at?
I'll try all three products I ordered , but I think the safest would be towel and the fastest the pad for DA polisher?
I saw you have the big working lights, you mentioned it gives a lot of heat, right, I bought 1000W working lights and it's so hot around them, you replaced the original bulbs with HID lights?
I will receive the order with the new DP coating Tuesday, depends on weather I'll do it same day, if not then next day, will give you a pics and feedback how it works and how it looks.
Also I saw that you use first the CG citrus shampoo and then the DP extreme foam , or I misunderstood, first I did the extreme foam with pressure washer and then the CG Citrus Based hyper wash with two pocket hand wash.
Regarding the windows it's better use the DP High performance glass restorer or the same Menzerna? Anyway I'll do the test spots , it's time to see and compare myself what works better
Thanks again for the advice, and I'll let you know about the tire coating.



Sent from my using Tapatalk

 

[JSFM35x]

I never had that marring. First you should break the pad in on glass. I use ONR mixed to QD strength. I wet the panel and the pad asm run over a cleaned panel. Then dry and move on. Looks like the panel dried as you buffed.

It should polish out. Good luck.

 

[Roikins]

Got it, thanks. I read about the braking up , just thought I could use the low pressure foam gun filled with lubricant concentrate to spray whole panel , like whole hood, and then while working spray some more. With pad is easier work than with towel?
Thanks


Sent from my using Tapatalk

 

[Tato]

I prefer the towel!

For Glass, take a look at this thread, me and Brondon put together tips on using CarPro Spotless.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/86521-best-way-clean-water-spots-glass.html


I follow it with PBL Polish, which you have plenty (explained there).

Kind Regards.

 

[Roikins]

I prefer the towel!

For Glass, take a look at this thread, me and Brondon put together tips on using CarPro Spotless.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/86521-best-way-clean-water-spots-glass.html


I follow it with PBL Polish, which you have plenty (explained there).

Kind Regards.

Thank you as always my is not that bad, I think it will come off either with the prep towel or Nanoscin pads and then with DP high performance glass restorer would be clean, if not, I'll go that route

Thanks


Sent from my using Tapatalk

 

[allenk4]

My guess is the clay lube: Cheap clay lubes have silicone in them.

I firmly believe (my opinion) that your car was not marred by the pad, but by the clay lube.

BULLOCKS!

The Forum will give you a pants pulled down spanking for that one

 

[allenk4]

Anyone else have thoughts on my idea of it being the clay lube?

Also pardon me, I don't know what nanoskin is. is it a jeweling pad?

You might consider changing your online signature...."Perfection in Detailing...
...Professional Products "

 

[allenk4]

Spiralout:



Ah, I see now.. it's "rubber polymer". That's funny, I ocassionally use flat rubber pieces to remove various tire sling contaminants (light rubbing with soap only though). I would imagine that any particles on the paint would just get caught in the "rubber polymer" pad and spin with it, marring the paint drastically. I've never tried it, but that's an educated guess.

Do you have a picture of one of these devices?

I am interested

 

[allenk4]

Spiralout:



Ah, I see now.. it's "rubber polymer". That's funny, I ocassionally use flat rubber pieces to remove various tire sling contaminants (light rubbing with soap only though). I would imagine that any particles on the paint would just get caught in the "rubber polymer" pad and spin with it, marring the paint drastically. I've never tried it, but that's an educated guess.

You may be giving yourself too much credit

 

[allenk4]

Just pulled off the "Quad"

Just as fun on an old thread as a new thread

 

[Roikins]

Do you have a picture of one of these devices?

I am interested

Sent from my using Tapatalk

 

[Roikins]

[

I rely a lot on swirl finder light (a flashlight), I use it every time; then you can see a 'Cool white flat bulb' (~5500-6000K); on it's side you may see my 'Warm white home made 'handlight', and the 'Dual socket system' I may use to mix the bulb options if needed.

Up above, you may see a tubular led bulb (cool white) - (I also have a substitute in warm) fixed to a Microphone stand.

Far right, you may see the bulb you liked. It's fair bright, I admit more than I thought when I ordered. Please remember, this bulb was ordered 3 years ago, it must have evolved in some manner.

The stand is a 'table standard light stand', nothing 'special' about it. Although it's firmly build and possibility of positioning the lamp in many ways makes it good for the job. (I've stolen it from my living room kkkk)


You can notice I'm using both the Warm flat light, and the Tubular Cool White (upper left). It's interesting to notice how defects shows differently based on lamp's shape, size, and distribution of leds.

[
It's noticeable the diference the shape of lamp and kind of leds can make in the highlight of defects appearance.



*The pictures above weren't taken for a thread or customer demonstration, just part of my personal archive so they are not the most beautiful you may see and may relate to different angles and parts (not in an exact sequence).

Decided to share since they were related to the light you asked.

Hope that helps,

Kind Regards.[/QUOTE]


Looks good set of lightning, I have that flashlight as well for swirl marks, I got the almost same look the yellow lights , only difference is that I have original halogen, they heat up so much, only thing is I have the tripod , also some portable light , mostly I use them that I could work after sunset , now just trying to find a way to change those halogens with LED's or something
View attachment 31090View attachment 31091


Sent from my using Tapatalk