Another "please verify my process" thread

[93ls1rx7]

Hey folks I was getting read to make a post and I saw one by knuckles that gave me some good ideas but I have some additional questions because my car isn't quite as cherry as his!

I’m planning to do an exterior detail on my 2008 Midnight Blue Metallic 911 turbo this weekend and I wanted to ask the forum to review my process to see if I’ll need any tweaks or additional products. The car has been garaged since I have owned it but the previous owner didn't take as much care As I have. The car has about 29000 miles and the paint has never had any correction work. There is a good amount of light spider webbing that needs to be corrected, a few scratches and one spot where the previous owner got either a bad water spot or left some bird droppings and it has slightly etched the paint. I’ll be doing all the correction and waxing in the shade but it not in a garage. Temps will be mid 70’s.

1. Wash and rinse wheels/tires and around the wheels on the paint then spray with some IronX, let sit, agitate and rinse. They are carbon ceramic rotors so they shouldn't be bad.
2. Spray car, wash with MF mitt and some Pinnacle bodywork shampoo, rinse, and dry with MF.
3. Clay bar car with Griots speed shine spray for lube.
4. Wash and dry again
5. Mask any area I don’t want to hit with DA polish.

Now this is where I need you guys to check out my polish and pad selections

6.Griots DA + LC Bevel Orange pad with mezerna SIP 1500 in test area to determine if it is agressive enough to remove the scratches and the water/bird dropping etching.
7. DA rest of car accordingly and remove SIP 1500 polish with fresh MF cloths.
8. DA the car again with some Mezerna SP 4000 on a LC beveled white pad and remove with MF cloth.
9. DA the car a third time with Mezerna SP 4500 on a LC beveled blue pad and remove with MF cloth.
10. Apply a thin layer of Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant with a LC blue foam pad working in crosshatch pattern working a couple of panels at a time then buff off with fresh MF towels.
11. Wait at least 2 hours and apply a coat of Griots best show wax to protect the paint and add some additional depth.
12. Remove masking for final wipe down with detailing spray and fresh MF.

Are my pad selections correct?

Am I making to many steps?

Is the wax worth it after the DGPS?

This will be a Saturday and Sunday job. If I only get through the SIP tomorrow and have to have the car sit out over night, should I rehash the car again before starting to polish or is a quick detail spray wipe down good enough?

Thanks guys and thanks to knuckles for some ideas already!

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Now this is where I need you guys to check out my polish and pad selections

6.Griots DA + LC Bevel Orange pad with mezerna SIP 1500 in test area to determine if it is agressive enough to remove the scratches and the water/bird dropping etching.

7. DA rest of car accordingly and remove SIP 1500 polish with fresh MF cloths.

8. DA the car again with some Mezerna SP 4000 on a LC beveled white pad and remove with MF cloth.

Good so far.

9. DA the car a third time with Mezerna SP 4500 on a LC beveled blue pad and remove with MF cloth.

If you're wanting to squeeze every drop of gloss and shine out of the paint then go for it. My guess is after the first two steps the paint going to look awesome and if you moved on to the LSP step you'll be just as happy.

10. Apply a thin layer of Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant with a LC blue foam pad working in crosshatch pattern working a couple of panels at a time then buff off with fresh MF towels.

Good except you don't have to "work" a non-cleaning LSP. All you want to do is make a few passes over each square inch of paint.

I go over this in Part 2 of the live broadcast video for the 1957 Chevy I added to Post #7 this thread yesterday.

Yeah... we've buffed out a few cars...

Start watching part 1 at the 2:07:00 time mark and then pick up at the beginning of the video in part 2.

I'm explaining how to machine apply a finishing wax and the process is the same for any non-cleaning wax or paint sealant. Be sure to shake the Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant really well and then pour some out direction onto the face of the pad and with a Griot's Garage polisher use the 2 speed setting.

Remember - at this stage of the game you're not trying to remove defects just do a really great job of spreading out a thin layer of product.

11. Wait at least 2 hours and apply a coat of Griot's best show wax to protect the paint and add some additional depth.

See what I wrote about topping here,

Topping - Definition - How to Top also called Topping

12. Remove masking for final wipe down with detailing spray and fresh MF.

Remove masking tape when applying the Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant and be VERY careful as you move the pad close to anything now un-taped.

Why?

To let the oscillating pad and the sealant remove your tape lines.



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[conman1395]

SIP is so aggressive for Porsche paint. Do you have PF2500? I've done paint correction on Porsche's before and PF2500 with an orange pad did a lot of correction by itself. I only used SIP for spots that didn't get corrected by the PF2500.

 

[93ls1rx7]

Thanks a million for the advice Mike. Do you thin the SIP on and orange pad is to aggressive for Porsche paint? White pad instead?

I don't have any pf2500. I have 400 which is for my truck and way to aggressive, the SIP 1500, the 4000 and 4500. I was worried the SIP might be to aggressive but i read and read and read and figured it would be ok. Maybe use it with a white pad instead to lessen the aggresiveness?

 

[refreshauto]

Mike Phillips gave you the winning formula. cant add more to that

 

[cardaddy]

SIP-1500 with an orange or white pad isn't that bad, even on Porsche paint, (as long as it's not black). I'd try it with a white pad first, if you don't get the correction you want, THEN switch to the orange pad.

Also, when working 1500, do the first 4~5 section passes, then pull the pad from the paint, do a light misting with DI water on the pad, turn the speed up about half a setting, (start say @ 5 then turn it up to 5.5) then do 2~3 more section passes.

Quite often that polish alone is enough to go straight to your LSP.

Not sure though that I'd do both 4000 AND 4500. They both have pretty much the same gloss factor, with 4000 having more cut. Personally I like 4000 better as it's more useful in a wider array of paints. Another way to eek out that last bit of gloss is to start a Menz product with one pad, then finish it down with a second, less aggressive pad. Sort of a 1.5 level of correction (where instead of two products and two pads it's one product with 2 pads). With 4000 for instance you might start with a white or even a green pad then finish it down with a blue or black pad.rops:
Autogeek Menzerna Compounds Comparison Chart

All that being said, it may very well be that 1500 doesn't have *enough* cut to get you where you want to be. In that instance, FG400 may get you there just fine. Do be careful though that you start with the least aggressive pad and work your sections from there.

Megs D300 and 151 are decent choices to consider as well. Just be careful with how much cut (in the pad) you use with that paint.

 

[conman1395]

^^ Yeah I've only worked on black Porsche paint