Meguiars DA MF Correction system help

Grifffx4

Grifffx4

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So, I got my Meg's DA MF Correction system in yesterday.

I was anxious to test the products out so I tried it on a co-workers trunk lid at lunch. It's a 2012 Black Ford Fusion with a history of surface abuse. The car was bought used but had spent it's early miles as a rental. To get to the point, it was full of RIDS. A few weeks ago I took most of the swirls out with D151 but it still was only 50%. If you asked me it looked as if someone washed it with a sponge that was dropped in the dirt.

So I did the deck lid and tried the D300 first. It worked well. I found it left some haze and holograms but got 90% of the RIDS. I also tried D105 on the right side to see if it could get all of the RIDS and it did 98% so I was happy. Both left holograms though.

Did I do anything wrong? Is it normal to leave the haze/holograms?

I know a polish will get it out as the D301 did great to hide most of the holograms but I still see fine compound swirls.

I was under the impression this 2-step system left a better finish. I still love it but just wondering if it is the fact that I'm a newb, it's black paint on a Ford?
 
If you pack up dried compound/spent paint in the fibers, you can cause marring. Did you fluff the fibers regularly? I'm guessing not since you did this at work.

Also, depending on the paint and color, it's possible you might leave some hazing; I've never noticed it but heck even Meg's says that's why you follow up with D301 or D302.
 
The MF discs get saturated with paint and spent product very quickly. You can improve the finish dramatically by frequently blowing out the MF disc in between passes and once before your final pass with the compounding step.

Sent from my N9810 using AG Online
 
Well, this is after one section pass. 3 firm pressure and two lighter pressure to each section. I used both cutting pads to do the trunk lid only so it was basically one ~2x2 section per pad. This is all I did. It was basically a test spot in a sense.

Maybe I used too much product to prime the pad? I circled product around the edge and did a cross through the middle. Used my finger to spread it evenly and then add some more to the edges that fibers didn't get product. Then I put two pea size drops on opposite sides of the pad to spread on the paint and start the section.
 
I tried getting some pics but the iPhone is incapable to get that detail.

However, after looking again the finish looks great. I guess the D301 made it look better than I thought. Its not show car but def near perfect.

Does the D301 simply hide the haze or does it have some abrasive to polish down and wax at the same time?
 
Grifffx4 said:
Well, this is after one section pass. 3 firm pressure and two lighter pressure to each section. I used both cutting pads to do the trunk lid only so it was basically one ~2x2 section per pad. This is all I did. It was basically a test spot in a sense.

Maybe I used too much product to prime the pad? I circled product around the edge and did a cross through the middle. Used my finger to spread it evenly and then add some more to the edges that fibers didn't get product. Then I put two pea size drops on opposite sides of the pad to spread on the paint and start the section.
Click to expand...

I'd say not enough product for one. Most people on here seem to go to a foam pad and finishing polish after using MF to correct. Have seen a few get to LSP ready finish with FG400 and MF though.

I'm guessing you were in the sun too since you did it a lunch? That would cause issues too.

One other question: Are you using the cutting pad or HEAVY cutting pad?
 
I think 301 is a very light polish. In the kit it says it can be used with just the polishing pad to correct light swirls. I have yet to use it though. I was very happy with d300 though.
 
I backed it into a warehouse so it was out of the sun.

I used the DMC5 & DMF5, not the heavy cut pad.
 
Grifffx4 said:
So, I got my Meg's DA MF Correction system in yesterday.

I was anxious to test the products out so I tried it on a co-workers trunk lid at lunch. It's a 2012 Black Ford Fusion with a history of surface abuse. The car was bought used but had spent it's early miles as a rental. To get to the point, it was full of RIDS. A few weeks ago I took most of the swirls out with D151 but it still was only 50%. If you asked me it looked as if someone washed it with a sponge that was dropped in the dirt.

So I did the deck lid and tried the D300 first. It worked well. I found it left some haze and holograms but got 90% of the RIDS. I also tried D105 on the right side to see if it could get all of the RIDS and it did 98% so I was happy. Both left holograms though.

Did I do anything wrong? Is it normal to leave the haze/holograms?

I know a polish will get it out as the D301 did great to hide most of the holograms but I still see fine compound swirls.

I was under the impression this 2-step system left a better finish. I still love it but just wondering if it is the fact that I'm a newb, it's black paint on a Ford?
Click to expand...

A 2-step is usually considered compounding followed by polish.


I am confused by this sentence. The Megs MF System is actually a three-step system:

- D300 Compound
- D302 Polish
- D301 Finishing Wax

Any compound/pad combo can leave haze on some paint types/finishes.



D300 followed by D302 has finished down very well in my experience. Sometimes on softer paint you can go from D300 straight to D301 Finishing Wax with a polishing MF as the MF pad itself provides a fair amount of cut, even though the D301 has no cut.
 
Ok, I must be confused. The kit I bought only has 300 & 301 and directions for a 2 step. Now I've seen the 302 recently but was under the impression that was optional or a late release for those having issues getting the results advertised. Just going by the demo video I thought 300 to 301 would do the trick...more specifically 300 would finish down better. Again I'm green so I'm probably just wrong or not doing something right...or have the wrong impression.
 
Grifffx4 said:
Ok, I must be confused. The kit I bought only has 300 & 301 and directions for a 2 step. Now I've seen the 302 recently but was under the impression that was optional or a late release for those having issues getting the results advertised. Just going by the demo video I thought 300 to 301 would do the trick...more specifically 300 would finish down better. Again I'm green so I'm probably just wrong or not doing something right...or have the wrong impression.
Click to expand...


You are not confused.....D300(compound) D301(finishing wax)comes in the kit. It was designed as a 2 step system.

D302 is polish which is just like 301(without the wax). this is a recent offering from Megs for guys like me that did not like the durability of the finishing wax.
 
Oh ok, I see.

So 301 & 302 do have some cut?
 
I had this happen to me. I've yet to figure out exactly caused this. I am thinking the Meguiars Microfiber pads not used as designed . Meaning more user error.

So here is what happened, I compounded using the compound and regular meguiars cut microfiber pad on my Rupes 21 with a 6" backing plate . Probably around speed 5 and medium pressure.

I then used the polishing pad and polish combo on my Rupes. At around speed 3 . And light pressure.

I then though I'd be finished and the paint was jet black single stage btw.

I then looked at it using my Sun gun and saw Holograms! I was like what the heck??? Didn't know this was possible??? :dunno:

I didn't bring any other pads or polishes so what I did was just decrease my speed, arm pressure and speed of the passes dramatically.

I went down to speed 1, just enough pressure to might contact, so very little pressure and did the passes a lot slower.

Not sure how this paint would have reacted with a foam polishing pad, but I used what I had and made it work.

However, my guess is this paint needed a final polish to finish out correctly using this combo.

So try doing a final polishing step.
 
This is a good read on how to properly use the DAMF system. I highly recommend you read it so you know how to properly use it and clean your pads.

Using Meguiar's D/A Microfiber Correction System

D301 is more a cleaner/finishing wax. It is used as part of the 2 step DAMF system to remove DA haze and leave protection behind.

D302 came along as this was intended to keep the user using the DAMF system insted of switching back to foam polishing pad. It is used to remove DA haze which can occur when using D300 + MF cutting pads. It is also intended to work with soft paint.

DA haze happened to me with D300. I just followed up with M205 and foam and it was removed. D302 has very little cut. You can actually use it with a foam finishing pad to add more gloss to the paint.

You can read more about D302 polish here.

DA Microfiber Polish
 
When this happened to me With my jet black BMW I tried remove the hazing with a orange light cutting foam pad and D301. It worked! I also tried with a soft polishing foam pad and it was even better. Tried Ultimate polish and 3M ultrafina and the soft foam polishing pad and the result was similar to D301. Now I've done almost the whole car with the third step and the hazing is gone. So for some paints especially black the MF system needs to be finished off with a foam pad to get the haze free shine.
 
dad07 said:
You are not confused.....D300(compound) D301(finishing wax)comes in the kit. It was designed as a 2 step system.

D302 is polish which is just like 301(without the wax). this is a recent offering from Megs for guys like me that did not like the durability of the finishing wax.
Click to expand...

Repeat....D301 has NO cut.

It is not D302 with wax added.

When used with a MF pad it will cut, but the cut is provided by the MF pad not the D301.

This was told to me directly by Mike Philips of Meguiar's.



You may be thinking of D151
 
allenk4 said:
Repeat....D301 has NO cut.

It is not D302 with wax added.

When used with a MF pad it will cut, but the cut is provided by the MF pad not the D301.

This was told to me directly by Mike Philips of Meguiar's.



You may be thinking of D151
Click to expand...

I am not thinking of D151........and Mike Phillips doesn't work for Meguiars any more nor did he when this system hit the market.
 
D301 does indeed have some light cut. As previously stated in this thread, it is not a 3 step process of D300, then D302 then D301. It is D300, then either D301 or D302. Both D301 and D302 have very light cut, all you really need to remove haze. Also, pay close attention to the machine speed. On a Griots, or G110V2, use speed 4 for the cutting, and speed 3 for the finishing with this system. I would think using a Rupes and speed 5 would really heat things up too quickly, and with the throw of the Rupes, you could probably get away with less speed which would produce less haze.
 
dad07 said:
I am not thinking of D151........and Mike Phillips doesn't work for Meguiars any more nor did he when this system hit the market.
Click to expand...

Typo...meant Mike Stoops

I think Art Hernandez was there as well at Thursday Night Open Garage

The product descriptions for D301 on AGO store and Meguiar's online do not mention abrasives either
 
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