How would you go about leveling this out?

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Romey-Rome

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It's the hood line crease if you can't tell - the "no sanding" zone.

I've had success leveling out all my rock chips on the hood, but it hindsight, I should have not "blobbed" it here and left a little pit & skip the sanding. At the time I was just in blob-blob-blob mode with intentions of sanding later & didn't even think about it.

2006 BMW paint.
xjPYygk.jpg


Thanks!
 
Just be easy on it and don't hammer down on it and you should be okay. If you have already handled it on the hood, I think you will be fine.

HUMP
 
You can take that blob off with a Langka-type system or completely remove the touchup with some lacquer thinner (as long as the rest of the paint is factory).
 
Niblick said:
these are great for those types of sanding jobs

30mm Sanding Block for Spot Repairs with 5000 Grit Papers - Elite Car Care

it allows you to be much more accurate that using a sheet.
Click to expand...

Flattening that with 5000 grit would take quite awhile and may be more dangerous than starting with 2000, because of the amount of time sanding, number of strokes and the temptation to apply too much pressure.

I suggest taping a lot if the surrounding area off. You can't tape too close to the blob or your sanding block will hit the tape and not allow you to get it level.

The "Blob Eliminator" can be purchased separately on AGO ($20). I have no experience with it, but there are several good reviews out there on it.
 
allenk4 said:
Flattening that with 5000 grit would take quite awhile and may be more dangerous than starting with 2000, because of the amount of time sanding, number of strokes and the temptation to apply too much pressure.

I suggest taping a lot if the surrounding area off. You can't tape too close to the blob or your sanding block will hit the tape and not allow you to get it level.

The "Blob Eliminator" can be purchased separately on AGO ($20). I have no experience with it, but there are several good reviews out there on it.
Click to expand...

I think in this instance taping very close would be beneficial. Do the majority of levelling with the tape very close to protect the surounding paint, then once you are close to level, retape and finish the work to minimize the amount of sanding just adjacent to the repair.
 
Carefully place some painter's tape around the blobs. Think outside the box, get a hole punch for paper like you would find at Staples and punch one or two holes in the painter's tape and place it over the blobs so that only the blobs are exposed.

You could also probably do this with an Exacto Knife. Point being, protect the "good factory paint" from being sanded.

Then get a Meguiar's Unigrit Sanding Block in #3000 grit and dress it like I show in the article and even shape it if you like.

Then carefully, take your time and sand the blob to match the contour of the panel.

How to use Meguiar's Unigrit Sanding Blocks to remove runs and dirt nibs in paint


MegsSandingBlock030.jpg



When finished, carefully rub out your sanding marks and then store the block in a clean place for the future.

:)
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Sold! Er....not sold, I don't see the 3000 grit here in the Autogeek store, only 1000, 1500, and 2000.
Click to expand...


You're right... I think they discontinued a few and just have those three...

Good catch, I should have read my own article and looked at my own pictures.... :D



Meguiar's Unigrit Sanding Blocks are available in 3 different levels of aggressiveness.

#1000
#1500
#2000

MegsSandingBlock011.jpg




:dunno:
 
Whoa. Thanks for all the feedback!

Thus far, my process has been
2000
3000
Ultimate Compound
Ultimate Polish

I have the Meguiars 2000 block, but doesn't seem to bite like the 3M sandpaper. Maybe I was using too much water. It was just kind of floating while doing little.

I kind of figured Langka leveler only worked on their own paints. Not OEM touchup.

Think liquid method sound like the safest bet. I can always add more touchup if I take too much off. Not so with clear coat. This IS my first rodeo.
 
Romey-Rome said:
Whoa. Thanks for all the feedback!

Thus far, my process has been
2000
3000
Ultimate Compound
Ultimate Polish

I have the Meguiars 2000 block, but doesn't seem to bite like the 3M sandpaper. Maybe I was using too much water. It was just kind of floating while doing little.

I kind of figured Langka leveler only worked on their own paints. Not OEM touchup.

Think liquid method sound like the safest bet. I can always add more touchup if I take too much off. Not so with clear coat. This IS my first rodeo.
Click to expand...

The Langka system is based on using OEM touch-up paints
 
allenk4 said:
Flattening that with 5000 grit would take quite awhile and may be more dangerous than starting with 2000, because of the amount of time sanding, number of strokes and the temptation to apply too much pressure.

I suggest taping a lot if the surrounding area off. You can't tape too close to the blob or your sanding block will hit the tape and not allow you to get it level.

The "Blob Eliminator" can be purchased separately on AGO ($20). I have no experience with it, but there are several good reviews out there on it.
Click to expand...

it was actually just the block i was pointing out, you can get a variety of paper grades. this one just happens to come with 5000 grit. sorry, i should have made that clearer :xyxthumbs:
 
Romey-Rome said:
Whoa. Thanks for all the feedback!
Click to expand...

That's how this forum operates. Lots of help no mean or rude people...


Romey-Rome said:
I have the Meguiars 2000 block, but doesn't seem to bite like the 3M sandpaper. Maybe I was using too much water. It was just kind of floating while doing little.
Click to expand...

When doing this type of fine, precision work you want to work slow...

The #2000 grit blocks cut plenty fast for this type of work, just practice patience as the goal is to avoid doing this twice.


:)
 
I have to say, I love the look of those blocks! Might have to invest in a set :xyxthumbs:
 
Hmmm, a quick google search and it looks like they might not be available in the UK :-(
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
When doing this type of fine, precision work you want to work slow...

The #2000 grit blocks cut plenty fast for this type of work, just practice patience as the goal is to avoid doing this twice.


:)
Click to expand...

Yes. I will give it another try. I did not see the rounding corners bit when I first tried it. The sharp corners made me somewhat nervous around contours as it was making contact with the edges outside of my intended area.
 
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