So you are saying that 1/2 degree of camber will cause a car to pull?
I've never seen camber cause a pull, caster is what will cause a pull.
The factory alignment specs for my car give a +/- factor of 3/4 degree camber.
So I haven't seen anyone comment on changing the offset of wheels over the factory wheel.
My cars factory wheels are sucked 1 3/4" in from the edge of the fenderwell and it looks terrible. I have wheels on order with less offset that will put them flush with the fenderwell giving me a wider track and absolutely no rubbing with factory alignment specs. I just don't see why that should be illegal.
Maybe you haven't taken Hunter's suspension and alignment classes, but I have. The industry standard for the difference when you start considering adjustment is 1/2°. It's the difference between side to side that can cause a pull.
Caster differences can also make a car pull. The car will pull to the side of more negative caster. Again, it's the DIFFERENCE between each side that causes the pull. However, when one alignment angle (or ride height) is altered to a significant degree, it can effect the angles on each specific side - not necessarily in an even manner.
Changes in camber can also affect caster causing the car not to handle as well as designed or make the steering feel twitchy or slow (depending if the caster is too negative or positive). Lowering can also stress or change the load on control arm bushings and other suspension bushings - causing them to wear which can affect ALL the alignment geometry.
Generally, and it's been a while since I've been wrenching on cars for $, but - whenever I pulled a car on the rack that had the suspension "altered" to a significant degree - the standing alignment was a wreck.
Caster and camber are not adjustable on all cars on all axles (fixed rear has no caster). So, modifying certain aspects of the suspension can change any angle in an often unpredictable and unsymmetrical manner and correction may not be even possible or cost effective.
These are what we used to call "set the toe and let it go" - because often caster/camber was wacked on these cars (one side or both - or just rear camber/toe) and one or both of the angles may not have offered factory adjustments. In some cases aftermarket adjustments are available, but once the suspension is modified to a significant degree - it's hard to predict if even with the factory specs the tires still roll down the road with the correct alignment geometry.
That is why cars are engineered with certain tire sizes, certain types of bushings, and certain alignment specs. The manufacturer has a significant interest invested to test these things and make sure it all works together with the proper blend of handling, safety, and tire wear. Of course slightly modifying one aspect likely won't cause a major problem. But, slight modification is not what I would call "Hellaflush" - the topic of this thread.
While I can't speak for any other car (I used to work for Ford, but know a lot more about modern BMWs); it's a pretty well accepted notion that a little bit of drop probably won't hurt much. However, when you add a LOT OF drop, combined with bigger wheels with larger offsets (or spacers), AND add super low profile tires to compensate for the huge diameter wheels - most BMWs handle like crap - and camber goes negative. To what extent and on what side is anyone's guess.
To be honest, most coil overs are crap as well. The ease of adjusting the ride height is sacrificed for a pretty harsh ride. There are some good coil overs out there - but most cost $$$$.
But, it seems most people into "lowering" and "Hellaflush" are more concerned with a certain look than any of this - which is fine. But, please don't think you have more resources, education, experience, and testing ability than the team of engineers that designed your car's suspension and alignment geometry.
