Turtle Wax Bug/Tar Remover Clear Coat Burn

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BlackRam

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Hey everyone-
My coworker as a dodge charger. He bought it brand new. He parks under trees (first mistake) so this weekend he bough some tw bug/tar remover and applied by hand. I am still trying to see what applicator he used, but it appears that he burnt through the clear. the reason i saw this is because the spots look dull. it is a grey car, the spots feel like weirdly smooth. i do not have pics yet (they look just like that other thread about cc burn on the white honda) but with the limited info i have so far, is it possible by hand to burn through the clear with this product?

thanks guys
 
As update, he bought a 2 sided sponge at autozone, one side was rough and one side was smooth. he used the rough side and really put some force behind the rub. looks like if so, he either opti coats it (which is maybe becuase of the lack of knowledge in even maintenance) or a respray? any other options, or opinions on any of this?
 
A little premature to talk about a respray--I would attempt to polish the dull spots back first, don't you think?
 
Setec Astronomy said:
A little premature to talk about a respray--I would attempt to polish the dull spots back first, don't you think?
Click to expand...

This is what I would say. A rough sponge can't be any more harsh than a wetsand. I would try an intensive polish like SF2500 on a white pad first, then step up to M105/FG400 or similar on an orange pad.
 
thanks setec/wdmaccord - absolutly, trying to help this guy out. i have a gg6 and my other coworker has a megs da - so maybe a white pad with either fixer or uber compound? (those are the compound i have as well as finishing polishes, etc). so what - do the spot as well as the surrounding area to "blend it". if it is dull - how though would polishing fix it - unless of course he did not go through the clear - trying to understand - thank you
 
Shiny paint gets dull if you abrade it...if you use even 3000 grit sandpaper you will get a nice dull spot. That doesn't mean you're through the clear.

I would start with a polish, not a compound. If that doesn't bring back the shine, as wdmaccord suggested, then go to a compound and back to the polish to finish.
 
perfect- thanks for the course of action - if this does not work (i want to be prepared) - then what is plan b?


Setec Astronomy said:
Shiny paint gets dull if you abrade it...if you use even 3000 grit sandpaper you will get a nice dull spot. That doesn't mean you're through the clear.

I would start with a polish, not a compound. If that doesn't bring back the shine, as wdmaccord suggested, then go to a compound and back to the polish to finish.
Click to expand...
 
If he has just dulled the clear, the polish should make an improvement. Maybe you want to do a "Mike Phillips" and put a tape line across the defect, and polish one side so you can compare.

One of three things will happen:

1. The finish will improve, and with more polishing look fine.

2. The finish will improve, but looks like "shiny scratches". That would suggest the use of a compound, followed by a polish to refine the finish.

3. Polishing/compounding makes things worse (more dull) which would indicate breach of the clearcoat.
 
awesome!! - thank you very much for all the knowledge and insight,

Setec Astronomy said:
If he has just dulled the clear, the polish should make an improvement. Maybe you want to do a "Mike Phillips" and put a tape line across the defect, and polish one side so you can compare.

One of three things will happen:

1. The finish will improve, and with more polishing look fine.

2. The finish will improve, but looks like "shiny scratches". That would suggest the use of a compound, followed by a polish to refine the finish.

3. Polishing/compounding makes things worse (more dull) which would indicate breach of the clearcoat.
Click to expand...
 
wdmaccord said:
This is what I would say. A rough sponge can't be any more harsh than a wetsand. I would try an intensive polish like SF2500 on a white pad first, then step up to M105/FG400 or similar on an orange pad.
Click to expand...

Incorrect

What kills you with these types of rough sponges, is that the material is not uniform like a quality sandpaper and therefore the depth of scratches can be much deeper than what you would see with materials intended for paint refinement.
 
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