How to use the Dr. ColorChip Paint Chip Repair Systems

Mike,

Thank you for the detailed how to on the Dr. ColorChip system.

I recently evaluated a clients vehicle and found numerous rock chips around the car , from tiny to kind of large rock chips. The issue is that, there is rust on the metal.

How would you clean and prep the area to be touched up? IronX? 2000 grit wet dry sandpaper on a pencil eraser? Then clean with IPA? And proceed as usual?

I see that you mentioned to first polish the vehicle before performing chip repairs.. Will the chips affect or harm the polishing pads at all?

You mentioned your experience at Meguiar's where the bill was 60-75$. Since I will be ordering a ColorChip package and they normally are ~50$, how do I base the cost of work ontop of that 50$? Would I charge them for the cost of the supplies since it's dedicated to their vehicle, and keep the color for possible future same color cars?

Thank you!
Stephan
 
Mike,

Thank you for the detailed how to on the Dr. ColorChip system.

I recently evaluated a clients vehicle and found numerous rock chips around the car , from tiny to kind of large rock chips. The issue is that, there is rust on the metal.

How would you clean and prep the area to be touched up? IronX? 2000 grit wet dry sandpaper on a pencil eraser? Then clean with IPA? And proceed as usual?

Yes to all of the above but keep in mind if you use Iron X be sure to rinse very thoroughly after using it and chances are as the bare metal dries a little rust flashing will return so you'll still have to remove this trace rust before applying the touch-up paint.



I see that you mentioned to first polish the vehicle before performing chip repairs.. Will the chips affect or harm the polishing pads at all?

Nope... not even an issue...

You mentioned your experience at Meguiar's where the bill was 60-75$. Since I will be ordering a ColorChip package and they normally are ~50$, how do I base the cost of work on top of that 50$? Would I charge them for the cost of the supplies since it's dedicated to their vehicle, and keep the color for possible future same color cars?

Thank you!
Stephan


Two ways to go about this...

1. Make the customer order and get their own Dr. ColorChip repair kit. The cost incurred is their cost and part of owning a rock chip free car. This is the best approach.


2. Start a dedicated business doing rock chip repair and purchase the business start up kit from Dr. ColorChip. Check with Dr. ColorChip about this option.


When I do this, and I have two cars coming up, I simply share the website with the customer and tell them to get the kit for their paint code on their car.



:)
 
Nice to see that this system isn't just a gimmick, and that it actually works. I just ordered a kit today. Thanks for the writeup.
 
Hey everyone. Newb here. Sorry to bring up an old thread, but, I have a question about layering Dr. Colorchip.

When you layer, do you do the entire process (paint, dry, wipe, repeat as necessary) or are you applying multiple layers and then wiping at the end?
 
Hey, just a follow up, crazy how it's a year later...

Thank you for posting the Dr. Color Chip videos on You Tube! They have helped a lot and I will check to see about their mobile detailer package!

Stephan
 
Sorry I just found these posts...


Nice to see that this system isn't just a gimmick, and that it actually works. I just ordered a kit today. Thanks for the writeup.

You're welcome. How did it go for you?



Hey everyone. Newb here. Sorry to bring up an old thread, but, I have a question about layering Dr. Colorchip.

When you layer, do you do the entire process (paint, dry, wipe, repeat as necessary) or are you applying multiple layers and then wiping at the end?

You would apply multiple layers until you were happy and then do the wiping process.


:)
 
Are there any tips for using the system on curved panels? I found this video on YouTube, but it's really short and doesn't show the final result. The chips on my car are nowhere as large, about 1/2" in length, and are on the wheel arches and another where the fuel filler curves into the recess of the body like the previous owner nicked it with the pump nozzle.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50CmCujhRjI



I guess what I'm asking is if there's maybe a benefit to letting the paint set longer so it's harder or techniques to not pull all the paint out of the chip when wiping with the blending solution. I have the kit in my possession and am going to do the touch up soon.

Thanks in advance!
 
Are there any tips for using the system on curved panels? I found this video on YouTube, but it's really short and doesn't show the final result. The chips on my car are nowhere as large, about 1/2" in length, and are on the wheel arches and another where the fuel filler curves into the recess of the body like the previous owner nicked it with the pump nozzle.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=50CmCujhRjI



I guess what I'm asking is if there's maybe a benefit to letting the paint set longer so it's harder or techniques to not pull all the paint out of the chip when wiping with the blending solution. I have the kit in my possession and am going to do the touch up soon.

Thanks in advance!


You can let the paint dry longer, it won't cause problems.

You can use the Sealact to remove the paint it's just the longer it dries the more you'll have to rub and the more Sealact you'll have to use.

You could let the paint dry for a couple of days if you want.


:)
 
Mike, great article!
Quick question - I have a customer who wants rock chip repair completed on the front bumper and the hood. I will also be doing a full correction on the car as well.

I was planning on using the Dr. Colorchip system. Would I do this first after washing and decontaminating the vehicle and then wait for it to dry then start correcting the paint? Or would I do the entire correction first then apply Dr. Colorchip prior to LSP?

Hope that is not a silly question!
 
Mike, great article!
Quick question - I have a customer who wants rock chip repair completed on the front bumper and the hood. I will also be doing a full correction on the car as well.

I was planning on using the Dr. Colorchip system. Would I do this first after washing and decontaminating the vehicle and then wait for it to dry then start correcting the paint? Or would I do the entire correction first then apply Dr. Colorchip prior to LSP?

Hope that is not a silly question!

So this is what happens when you dont fully read. You answered my question in your intro paragraph! lol
 
So this is what happens when you dont fully read.

You answered my question in your intro paragraph! lol


:)


Good or bad... when I write an article I try to cover all the bases.

I think through all the questions I would have if I was interested in a topic and then answer them in detail. (no pun intended)


How did it turn out?



:dblthumb2:
 
For the user who not only wants to hide the chip but also correct the surface imperfection, could you still apply the traditional touch-up paint method with this product? I'm referring to slowly building upon the "crater" until a slight crown of paint is formed, then sanding the crown to level the surface and finish with a compound/polish.

If you're asking, "Why not just purchase the traditional touch-up paint for that method?", it appears that the touch-up paint applicator from the dealer does not match the OEM paint well for my car based on complaints from other users. Users on the forums have said that Dr. ColorChip's paint matches exactly.

Thanks!
 
For the user who not only wants to hide the chip but also correct the surface imperfection, could you still apply the traditional touch-up paint method with this product? I'm referring to slowly building upon the "crater" until a slight crown of paint is formed, then sanding the crown to level the surface and finish with a compound/polish.

If you're asking, "Why not just purchase the traditional touch-up paint for that method?", it appears that the touch-up paint applicator from the dealer does not match the OEM paint well for my car based on complaints from other users. Users on the forums have said that Dr. ColorChip's paint matches exactly.

Thanks!
 
For the user who not only wants to hide the chip but also correct the surface imperfection, could you still apply the traditional touch-up paint method with this product? I'm referring to slowly building upon the "crater" until a slight crown of paint is formed, then sanding the crown to level the surface and finish with a compound/polish.


Yes to the first part of the process you describe.

Probably "no" to the second part of the process you describe.


The thing that's hard about sanding down the touch up paint blob is that the touch up paint will sand EASY. If you get any sanding marks in the FACTORY paint, well it's HARD and it will be HARD to sand the sanding marks out of the factory paint.

About 99.9% of the time when someone tries this when they try to buff out the sanding marks they buff them out of the touch-up paint and then in order to buff the sanding marks out of the factory paint they CONTINUE BUFFING and then heat up all the paint and then the buffing pad will YANK the blob of paint off of the car.

Now you're back to where you started only you still have the sanding marks in the paint surrounding the blob. What will happen if you continue to try this is you will turn a mole hill into a mountain.

A better idea is to lower your expectations, fill in the chip and walk away.

I actually show this and explain this in the article that is the first page of this thread.


:)
 
Cool product. It works like a pro. BTW, if you have a windshield chip, please check out SPAM LINK REMOVED the most trusted windshield chip repair kit brand.
 
For those of you with multiple vehicles you can buy just a small bottle of paint at the Dr Colorchip website. I found this out after buying 3 complete kits. It’s a good way to save some cash.
 
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