Some DG Process Questions..Help Needed!

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BTLew81

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I think I am going to use some DG products on my wife's car. It doesnt get a ton of maintenance, so I think something durable like DG will work well.

I currently have a pretty fresh coat of Meg's UPW on the car. Will the 501/601 mix remove the lsp and prep for 105/601 if I use the 501 by hand?

I am pretty sure I remember that the 105/601 can be applied immediately over the 501/601 mixture. Do I remember correctly? Also, how long do I need to wait if I want to apply another layer of 105?

Any help, additional guidance, etc is appreciated.
 
The 501 is a powerful cleaner but does work better with a machine. If you don't have one, so be it, do it by hand. Yes, you can immediately follow the 501/601 mix with 105/601. You can add another layer and/or top it immediately as well.




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Thanks Richy. I have a machine, but cleaning pads is so tough with 501 that I prefer to use a hand pad and throw it away.

Trying to decide if I should use 501 and 105 or give the DG coating a shot.
 
I would use the 501 still to clean the paint. Especially if it doesn't see much maintenance. Then go ahead and try the coating. I haven't tried the coating yet but there's a very large and information filled thread dedicated to it.
 
Why would you use 501...a cleaner/polish AIO...and then follow up with 105 which is also a cleaner/polish AIO? :confused:

Why not pick one of the two (for the record, I have 501 and it is an awesome product) and then top it off with #111, which is a pure sealant? That would eliminate the redundancy.
 
105 is not an AIO in my opinion. It's far too mild. At least using 501 will clean the paint very well. If the OP already has 111 then I agree he should use that, but if he has 105 there's no need to go out and buy it.
 
conman1395 said:
105 is not an AIO in my opinion. It's far too mild. At least using 501 will clean the paint very well. If the OP already has 111 then I agree he should use that, but if he has 105 there's no need to go out and buy it.
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According to Duragloss it is.

One Step Wax - Recommended for all vehicles. Contains additional cleaning properties to remove mild oxidation and light surface scratches.
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16 oz. - Duragloss TPP (Total Performance Polish)

Duragloss Total Performance Polish is a cleaner and polish in one that improves and protects the paint surface for an incredibly durable finish.
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Duragloss Total Performance Polish (TPP) # 105

Applying #105 after #501 is pointless. It'll strip 501's protection (which is probably better than 105's to begin with) and simply replace it with it's own. If you're going to do that, you'd be better off using a dedicated cleaner/polish like Poorboy's Pro Polish 2 and then topping with a wax or sealant.

Using 501 and then 111 would give superior looks and durability to the 501/105 combo.
 
Has anyone used Duragloss 265. On the AG site, the most recent review is from 2013.
 
The 501/601 mix should be enough to make you very happy for a long while. The 501 has little stronger cleaners AND includes long-lasting protection. If you feel the need to do additional work, yes, 111/105 on top later will delight. Let the first treatment of any DG "cure" at least 24-48 hours before adding more. Even the "fast clean & shine" or "Aquawax" or even the new "Waterless Wash & Wax" will enhance the shine after cure.
105/601 is my go-to sealant protection...but my vehicles are relatively new.
I have a buddy that says #265 is his "secret sauce" for trim and plastic bumpers. He says the biggest advantage is that it doesn't turn yellow like competing brands.
 
Duragloss Total Performance Polish (TPP) # 105

Applying #105 after #501 is pointless. It'll strip 501's protection (which is probably better than 105's to begin with) and simply replace it with it's own. If you're going to do that, you'd be better off using a dedicated cleaner/polish like Poorboy's Pro Polish 2 and then topping with a wax or sealant.
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According to Duragloss and member Richy who knows about as much as the Duragloss inventors:

501 is heavy on cleaners, lighter on sealant.
105 is heavy on sealant and lighter on cleaners.

Richy says the 501 topped with 105 is all good with no negatives, both used with 601. He is a tester for Duragloss and one of the premier professional detailers on this forum. If he says something about Duragloss you can take it to the bank.

His quote from 2012: 105 has such a minute cleaning ability, it's almost negligible. 671 is the strongest, followed by 501. Trust us and the many who swear by the 501/105 combo and don't over-analyze it.

Another Richy quote from 2012 : I've written a lot on this site about 501. Its main merit IMO is its cleaning ability. You are not using it as a sealant per se, but as a paint cleaner. Don't think you need it? Hahahaha...ya, I thought so too before I used it the first time! Try it, you will love it. You will be disgusted at what the pad looks like after going over your clean paint, LOL. Go over that with 105 for true protection. For the ultimate, top it with Colli 845.

I've been here ten years folks......when Richy speaks I listen!
 
501 was designed for marine use on gel coat which is much harder to clean than auto clearcoats (requires stronger cleaning products). Hence its great cleaning ability.
 
Using Squeaky Clean has vastly improved the durability of 105 even using it with 601. I did Squeaky Clean followed by 105/601 back in December. It has been maintained with rinseless washes and DG rinseless mixed as a QD,and it has survived a ton of rain and pollen and road film.
 
AllenK said:
Using Squeaky Clean has vastly improved the durability of 105 even using it with 601. I did Squeaky Clean followed by 105/601 back in December. It has been maintained with rinseless washes and DG rinseless mixed as a QD,and it has survived a ton of rain and pollen and road film.
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Thanks for that. I have been wondering how that combo process would work. It makes sense. Tell us a little about the condition of your finish before you used the Squeaky Clean.
 
Jowillie said:
Thanks for that. I have been wondering how that combo process would work. It makes sense. Tell us a little about the condition of your finish before you used the Squeaky Clean.
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I used the combo on my daily driver HHR. I didn't clay beforehand,but I know the paint could've used it. It sits outside 24/7 so I know it has contaminant bonding going on. Even at that the Squeaky Clean helped. I have done nothing different except using the Squeaky Clean. The pollen and rain normally would've killed it or hurt the beading,but not using the SQ.
 
Jowillie, your friend who uses Duragloss 265, does he encounter issues the over spray on his finish? Such as drying quickly, not easily removed, staining.
 
Buster906 said:
Jowillie, your friend who uses Duragloss 265, does he encounter issues the over spray on his finish? Such as drying quickly, not easily removed, staining.
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He never mentions any problems. I have seen him spray his applicator or rag to apply, especially in tight places.
 
Not to highjack the thread (maybe we should start a new one) but, has anyone any experience with DG Track Claw? I have heard that it is harder, slicker and shinier than other DG products. It would seem that Track Claw/601 used as a Last Step Protectant would be the ultimate look. Maybe on top of #501/#601 or #105/601. I do understand that it would not last as long as TPP #105/601.
 
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