New house = hard water = water spots

I like the approach of using rinseless and a presoak with waterless to add extra lubricity. I may have to try that. I've foamed a few cars with this hard water and that is proving to be pretty bad. Even though the foam is super slick and adds lubricity it will already spot by the time I get to the wash mitt.

I'm renting my house so I'm not sure how easy it will be (and if it will be approved) to redirect some of the water systems to different spigots. Although, the owner gladly let me renovate the garage :)

What are you guys doing for the wheels then if not using the hose?
 
Adams detail spray and gary deans detail juice seems to be my two go to sprays for drying, Adams is amazing at getting rid of spots, and gary deans is great for clay lube, and drying. You can also make deans as strong as you want.
 
Tector said:
I used a similar approach to Setec only I just went with two spigotsIf you have hard water you will probably end up with a water softener at some point. It sure beats scrubbing those calcium stains you get with hard water on all your plumbing fixtures, wash machine, dish washer etc.
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Those deposits do not help your appliances (like washer, refrigerator if you have a water out, shower heads, water heater).
 
Brunkel said:
I can't spend a fortune on filtration systems so

I'm wondering what other options I have?
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Maybe some ONR?
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HighEndDetail said:
I would add a ounce to two ounces.

"Add 1 ounce of ONR to wash water made with your regular car wash. No Rinse Wash & Shine’s advanced polymers and lubricants offer more surface protection and slickness than ordinary car soap alone. It acts as a water softener and conditioner to improve the quality of the water that touches your vehicle to provide the ultimate safe wash".
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Bob
 
FUNX725 said:
Maybe some ONR?
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Bob
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Yeah I tried adding a bit of ONR to my wash buckets but didn't help much. I will use onr for rinse less washes though if I go that route.


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That's my best advice is switching to rinseless during the summer months in particular when its hot out. Keep the temperature in mind both in the air and on the paint. Work in small panels and don't allow the water to dry.
 
Your most economical solution is the CR Spotless system. If your water is that hard you will likely blow through that inline filter in no time at all. The CR Spotless works well (its not a complete solution , you will still have to dry your car by hand or blower) and lasts for a decent amount of time.
 
Brunkel said:
Yeah I tried adding a bit of ONR to my wash buckets but didn't help much. I will use onr for rinse less washes though if I go that route.


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yeah because you are still rinsing your car with hard water. Most decent quality shampoo's will already have water softeners added in the formula. Adding ONR is just redundant and kind of kills the shampoo's suds and slickness (by feel) IME.
 
mg6045 said:
Thats awesome ! My next house will have a similar setup. How often are you replacing your resin filters ?
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Eh? Water softeners regenerate automatically using salt, unlike deionizers where you replace the resin. The reason is softeners do ion exchange, while deionizers do ion removal.
 
mg6045 said:
Your most economical solution is the CR Spotless system. If your water is that hard you will likely blow through that inline filter in no time at all. The CR Spotless works well (its not a complete solution , you will still have to dry your car by hand or blower) and lasts for a decent amount of time.
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Yeah those are the systems that get into that price range I did not want to go into. The cheapest one is around $300 and says it produces 150 gallons. That still seems like a lot of filter replacements if your doing a 2-bucket wash each time and using 10+gallons.

I think you're right though about going through those inline filters pretty fast. Maybe my best bet is to get the water softener and re route the water to my driveway spigot?


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Possibly a waterless wash like optimum no rinse or chemical guys ecosmart. No water needed and the ecosmart has worked great for me with no scratching or maring as long as you use good microfibers. Just a thought.

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Brunkel said:
Maybe my best bet is to get the water softener and re route the water to my driveway spigot?
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You said you rent, right? Depending on where the outdoor faucet piping is, maybe you can get a plumber to cut into that line and connect your softener just for that with hoses, so you can remove it when you leave. Just keep in mind the softener will need an electrical outlet and a sink or floor drain for regeneration, and you've got to be able to get to it to put salt in the tank. If you just use the softener for that, it won't consume very much salt at all.

PS I kind of went thru all this, bought a CR Spotless, too much consumables, nuisance, etc. bringing it outside all the time, then I went to running a hose out the door from the indoor soft water, then finally got my driveway faucet hooked up to the soft water.
 
Getting a softener just for the garage sounds interesting. You said it's different than the spotless. Would the softener eliminate spots completely. I'm gonna price one at Lowes. Maybe buying distilled by the gallon would be cheaper for me. I try keeping the car clean enough to maintain it with rinseless washes

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A water softener is different than a deionizer. A softener exchanges hardness ions for sodium (or potassium) ions, so you will get spots on your car, they just won't be hard water spots, and should clean off easily.
 
I think distilled isn't free of all minerals but it's probably better than the local water

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I'll drink out of those gallon jugs sometimes while cleaning the car. I guess I better stop. I never claimed to be that smart

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frankprozzoly said:
I'll drink out of those gallon jugs sometimes while cleaning the car. I guess I better stop. I never claimed to be that smart

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Lol. I've done that as well. It's OK to drink some DI water. I wouldn't drink like a gallon of it though - you'll dilute out your electrolytes and prolly start seizing.
 
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