two Q's: water spots & rinseless wash possibilities?

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mynetdude

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It gets hot here during the summer, everybody says wash the vehicle in the shade which of course is common sense; during certain times of the day its hard to park in the shade as there's no room it'd be literally hugging the outside wall of my house. Also I find that I can see details better in the sun than I can in the shade anyway (but it causes water spots!!!)

Anyway I got some Groit's glass polishing pads and Duragloss 755 and actually it works pretty damn good! BUT there's a spot or two that won't come out of the window and I have polished JUST that spot over and over (at least 3x) and nothing :( (no matter how much pressure I apply)

Now I need to remove water spots from the chrome trim or whatever but I am not sure if I should use Duragloss 755/glass pads on that but I really need to find a polish that will remove the water spots from the paint and the chrome at the same time rather than separately. I don't need to worry about waxing; the truck is brand new and isn't even a year old yet (from the factory).


Now because water spots are caused from baking in the sun or from letting water stay on the surface for too long (I know this can happen in the winter) I'd like to possibly switch to a rinseless wash but I can't possibly see that being a good thing as you need soap to remove all the dirt, mud, grit and road grime all I can think of is how it will scratch the paint.

But I'm starting to like the idea of doing a rinseless wash because it can be done almost anywhere, no water (or very little) and I still need to be able to do it in the shade/sun somewhat I don't have access to a lot of shade; what are my options for doing rinseless? Will it be safe to do on chrome and wheels?
 
For the water spots on the glass you may have to try a acidic
glass water spot remover like Meguiars water spot remover(in the red bottle you can get at pepboys) try it by hand first then if no budge then do it by machine, is your chrome actual metal or is it the plastic with chrome wrapping paper aka flux chrome either one you could try something like Carpro spotless thought
with plastic chrome you could use something like meguiar m105 or m205(meguiars ultimate compound and or polish) if the defect don't seem to be remove then leave it before you burn through the chrome plating, and when doing you can basically clean all areas of the vehicle if not too dirty though leave the lower part of the vehicle, and or wheels for last
 
Rinseless is great for hard water and heat. I avoid using a foam cannon/gun in the summer and 2 bucket washing. Rinseless washes are made to encapsulate dirt and if you keep your wash media well lubricate and using high quality microfibers it works great.
 
Consider a waterless wash too, pinnacle has a great one. Thats one of my favorite products.
 
jamesboyy said:
For the water spots on the glass you may have to try a acidic
glass water spot remover like Meguiars water spot remover(in the red bottle you can get at pepboys) try it by hand first then if no budge then do it by machine, is your chrome actual metal or is it the plastic with chrome wrapping paper aka flux chrome either one you could try something like Carpro spotless thought
with plastic chrome you could use something like meguiar m105 or m205(meguiars ultimate compound and or polish) if the defect don't seem to be remove then leave it before you burn through the chrome plating, and when doing you can basically clean all areas of the vehicle if not too dirty though leave the lower part of the vehicle, and or wheels for last
Click to expand...

When I was looking to get an acidic wash for the windows I couldn't find any and I kept reading about how dangerous it was to use professional acidic wash systems and all that crap (well duh!) and I didn't know that meguiars had it cuz they are my favorite brand to use its simple, easy, etc.

so m105 or m205 safe for the paint as well? I'm assuming this is a rubbing compound, I'm confused which is better? Compound or polish or is just one or the other less abrasive than the other?

af90 said:
Rinseless is great for hard water and heat. I avoid using a foam cannon/gun in the summer and 2 bucket washing. Rinseless washes are made to encapsulate dirt and if you keep your wash media well lubricate and using high quality microfibers it works great.
Click to expand...

So to well lubricate the wash media use the rinseless gel or whatever it is and get it lubricated before putting it on the vehicle? Generally I start at the top to bottom, the media is usually pretty saturated by the time I get halfway down on a small vehicle but on a large vehicle I'm not even halfway down and its already saturated.

StangFan25 said:
Consider a waterless wash too, pinnacle has a great one. Thats one of my favorite products.
Click to expand...

Pinnacle, hmm are there any resources that talk about rinseless washes which ones do what and which ones have more steps and what not?
 
Just looked at the meguiars hard water spot remover, says it works with paint, glass, hard plastic, etc but it IS acidic... I'm not so sure I want to put acid on plastic. the chrome is flux/plastic at least until I get a different grille (the replacement is $800 for the one I really want, but I'm waiting for the 2015 F150s to come out before I modify this truck any further so I'm trying to keep it as close to showroom quality (winter is going to tarnish that really fast cuz the 2015s won't show up until January)
 
actually I see 105 is tougher than 205

if I use 105 do I need to use dawn dish soap to remove the wax layer and then do 105 then clay then wax it again? (not on the windows obviously, but on the paint/chrome-flux-plastic).

And for my yearly waxing should I do the same? Remove with dish soap, do 105 all over and then clay and then add wax again?
 
Yes meguiars water spot remover is acidic though you use it wisely and on areas you feel best suited for it that is also why I suggested meguiars m105 and m205 cause those you can use on fake plastic, though be warned that you cannot work this material too much as you may burn through it meguiars m105 is more abrasive than meguiars m205 though its best to have both, and while I would not use something like dish soap to but rather carpro eraser to remove any left over residue from polishing lastly wax only last about 3 months if luck sealant will last about 6 months or so therefore if not into the waxing or sealing mode then its best to have your truck coated in a paint coat and around spring/summer time when you remove the winter gunk if you want yes that would be a time to compound(m105) and polish (m205) or just do a one step process removing most defects while saving some " skin " clear coat for later and when removing your lsp (last step product) like waxes etc its best to use a soap like chemical guys citrus wash or if you wanna go about it waterless/rinseless then do so but after claying use the carpro eraser to throughly wipe the paintwork
 
jamesboyy said:
Yes meguiars water spot remover is acidic though you use it wisely and on areas you feel best suited for it that is also why I suggested meguiars m105 and m205 cause those you can use on fake plastic, though be warned that you cannot work this material too much as you may burn through it meguiars m105 is more abrasive than meguiars m205 though its best to have both, and while I would not use something like dish soap to but rather carpro eraser to remove any left over residue from polishing lastly wax only last about 3 months if luck sealant will last about 6 months or so therefore if not into the waxing or sealing mode then its best to have your truck coated in a paint coat and around spring/summer time when you remove the winter gunk if you want yes that would be a time to compound(m105) and polish (m205) or just do a one step process removing most defects while saving some " skin " clear coat for later and when removing your lsp (last step product) like waxes etc its best to use a soap like chemical guys citrus wash or if you wanna go about it waterless/rinseless then do so but after claying use the carpro eraser to throughly wipe the paintwork
Click to expand...

Is carpro the only eraser to get?


So how is it supposed to be done?

Wash the vehicle

strip lsp with an eraser

compound/clay?

then use m205

erase & clay again?

then wax?


I'm thinking I may wait a couple more weeks before I do a wax job but I plan to use a synthetic wax then a carnuba wax on top of that to give it a little more protection from the winter elements.
 
your process should be as followed

-wash
-dry
-clay
-carpro eraser/rubbing alcohol
-Compound, and or polish
-carpro eraser/rubbing alcohol
-then wax or seal

Another eraser would be rubbing alcohol(either straight or diluted) and you don't clay bar the surface after you have did paint correction also before you attempt a paint correction be sure to do test spots with different pads to find a combo that works best also since you have a truck look into a clay substitute like nano skin eraser

take a look
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ow-mix-ipa-inspecting-correction-results.html
 
jamesboyy said:
your process should be as followed

-wash
-dry
-clay
-carpro eraser/rubbing alcohol
-Compound, and or polish
-carpro eraser/rubbing alcohol
-then wax or seal

Another eraser would be rubbing alcohol(either straight or diluted) and you don't clay bar the surface after you have did paint correction also before you attempt a paint correction be sure to do test spots with different pads to find a combo that works best also since you have a truck look into a clay substitute like nano skin eraser

take a look
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ow-mix-ipa-inspecting-correction-results.html
Click to expand...

You do not have to dry the car if you are going to clay.
 
jamesboyy said:
your process should be as followed

-wash
-dry
-clay
-carpro eraser/rubbing alcohol
-Compound, and or polish
-carpro eraser/rubbing alcohol
-then wax or seal

Another eraser would be rubbing alcohol(either straight or diluted) and you don't clay bar the surface after you have did paint correction also before you attempt a paint correction be sure to do test spots with different pads to find a combo that works best also since you have a truck look into a clay substitute like nano skin eraser

take a look
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ow-mix-ipa-inspecting-correction-results.html
Click to expand...

Ah ok I see, once you've done the paint correction (using eraser/rubbing alcohol) claying should never be done again until I'm ready to repeat the whole process... got it.

I also have a Camaro so I figured claying would be suitable for both vehicles; what's the difference between clay and nano skin eraser?

and I assume when you say paint correction this is done during the eraser process? What am I looking for in a pad exactly, what am I supposed to avoid since you say to test different pads for the proper combo?

Thanks a lot for the advice/help :)
 
Eandras said:
You do not have to dry the car if you are going to clay.
Click to expand...

you're right I suppose not; that makes sense I didn't think about that till you mentioned it meguiars suggested I use quick detailer to lubricate the surface being clayed but it couldn't hurt to let the water stay on the surface since the polish is going to take the water spots off hopefully.
 
While you are correct there is no need for drying if you going to clay, though since you have a lot of real estate(big truck) its best to dry so in case those water spots don't remove during paint correct though that's why its helpful to have carpro spotless water spot remover, as for clay and nanoskin they are basically the same thought nanoskin cuts claying time in half while giving you a ease of mind if you drop it cause all you have to do is rinse it, and go back to claying, paint correction is done after you wipe the paintwork down with carpro eraser/alcohol
What you looking for in paint correction is the least aggressive pad/product choice that will remove most/some of the defects on your paintwork without burning through the paint
 
I do Duragloss rinseless (not waterless) all the time in overhead 95 degree hot Florida sun. Just do a panel at a time. Before drying, spray the panel with duragloss aqua wax and you've applied sealant at the same time. Nothing could be as easy and as effective. If I ever have had any water spots, vinegar usually takes them off before I do the rinseless.
 
jamesboyy said:
While you are correct there is no need for drying if you going to clay, though since you have a lot of real estate(big truck) its best to dry so in case those water spots don't remove during paint correct though that's why its helpful to have carpro spotless water spot remover, as for clay and nanoskin they are basically the same thought nanoskin cuts claying time in half while giving you a ease of mind if you drop it cause all you have to do is rinse it, and go back to claying, paint correction is done after you wipe the paintwork down with carpro eraser/alcohol
What you looking for in paint correction is the least aggressive pad/product choice that will remove most/some of the defects on your paintwork without burning through the paint
Click to expand...

Nanoskin replaces the claybar? Hmm ok good to know, too bad I already bought the clay but you're right I can't imagine claying the truck its huge.

So I should probably use m205 and a light cutting or light finishing pad since neither of my vehicles would have major imperfections; for a vehicle with more imperfections I may want a heavier cutting pad and/or stronger abrasive unless I should just get a finishing polish and only use m205 for water spot corrections and a medium cutting pad for water spots.
 
glen e said:
I do Duragloss rinseless (not waterless) all the time in overhead 95 degree hot Florida sun. Just do a panel at a time. Before drying, spray the panel with duragloss aqua wax and you've applied sealant at the same time. Nothing could be as easy and as effective. If I ever have had any water spots, vinegar usually takes them off before I do the rinseless.
Click to expand...

I've tried all the typical remedies; vinegar wouldn't do it, nothing would and then I got duragloss 755 it does a hellva job for the most part but it still leaves a lot to be desired even after polishing the window a few times over.

I'd rather go for a waterless rinseless option, I don't wash my vehicles during the winter season other than maybe wipe down the road grime that builds up when it gets to be too obviously visible and again in the spring I don't bother the roads are too wet but late spring is when I do a major wash and then I do it at least 3-6 times during the summer and then one good major wash again in the fall (luckily for me I just washed the truck less than a month ago, so it should be an easy wash not so much for the Camaro).
 
mynetdude said:
Nanoskin replaces the claybar? Hmm ok good to know, too bad I already bought the clay but you're right I can't imagine claying the truck its huge.

So I should probably use m205 and a light cutting or light finishing pad since neither of my vehicles would have major imperfections; for a vehicle with more imperfections I may want a heavier cutting pad and/or stronger abrasive unless I should just get a finishing polish and only use m205 for water spot corrections and a medium cutting pad for water spots.
Click to expand...

Your plan sounds about right though only a test spot will determine what will work best for that particular paint system.
Some may work good with meguiars m105 and white or green pad while others may respond to meguiars m205 and orange pad
 
when doing the eraser process do I use the nanoskin/claybar or do I use microfiber? I see that claying/nanoskin is the step BEFORE doing the eraser so hence I'm asking.
 
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