two Q's: water spots & rinseless wash possibilities?

Sounds great, enjoy shopping if anything else needed let us know
 
I'm confused on why eraser needs to be used at all?

If you aren't applying a coating, what's the point?

Claying should remove most of the LSP present. Compounding or polishing will definitely remove the rest.

Waxes and sealants don't need eraser and M105 or M205 should both come off when wiping it off after the polishing step. Heck, a leaf blower might be better suited to removing M105.

OP, by your posts you seem very new to correcting paint. Take the money you would spend on eraser and put it towards Mike Phillips ebook available here. You will get better results by reading that book than you could if you had every tool and chemical available to you in the detailing world and no experience.
 
aim4squirrels said:
I'm confused on why eraser needs to be used at all?

If you aren't applying a coating, what's the point?

Claying should remove most of the LSP present. Compounding or polishing will definitely remove the rest.

Waxes and sealants don't need eraser and M105 or M205 should both come off when wiping it off after the polishing step. Heck, a leaf blower might be better suited to removing M105.

OP, by your posts you seem very new to correcting paint. Take the money you would spend on eraser and put it towards Mike Phillips ebook available here. You will get better results by reading that book than you could if you had every tool and chemical available to you in the detailing world and no experience.
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Cool :) didn't know about the ebook; I'll get that too. Experience makes practice better. I've known bits here and there and gradually got into different phases of car washing as I got more comfortable with what I was doing, etc.
 
You're welcome. I'll say this too:

M205 is a pretty solid product. I have no complaints about it.

M105 on the other hand, can be a bit of a bugger. It likes to dust if it gets overworked or worked in extremes of outside temps and humidity. I would suggest Meguiars ultimate compound for a first timer, as it has almost as much cut and way longer work time. Much more forgiving.

You might even be able to get a great result with a one step product. It all depends on how picky you are and how seasoned your eyes are to seeing defects, and being able to tell if a finer polish would squeak out more gloss for you.

Wolfgang makes a line of polishes that were made in conjunction with Menzerna that are truly fantastic and easy to work with for new guys.

Uber Compound can cut really fast and leave a finish that most would consider wax ready, especially if you use it with foam pads. They also have finer polishes like total swirl remover and a finishing glaze that will definitely be wax ready when you're finished. Which one you choose depends on how bad the defects in your vehicles are.


One word of caution. When you get down to buffing, don't chase down every last scratch in the paint. Some of them will be pretty deep and you'd have to remove a good amount of clear coat to get them all out. It's not worth it on a daily driver as the clear coat is more valuable for the overall longevity of the paint than a flawless finish is. Mike calls them RIDS in his book: random isolated deep scratches. You need to let those be.
 
aim4squirrels said:
You're welcome. I'll say this too:

M205 is a pretty solid product. I have no complaints about it.

M105 on the other hand, can be a bit of a bugger. It likes to dust if it gets overworked or worked in extremes of outside temps and humidity. I would suggest Meguiars ultimate compound for a first timer, as it has almost as much cut and way longer work time. Much more forgiving.

You might even be able to get a great result with a one step product. It all depends on how picky you are and how seasoned your eyes are to seeing defects, and being able to tell if a finer polish would squeak out more gloss for you.

Wolfgang makes a line of polishes that were made in conjunction with Menzerna that are truly fantastic and easy to work with for new guys.

Uber Compound can cut really fast and leave a finish that most would consider wax ready, especially if you use it with foam pads. They also have finer polishes like total swirl remover and a finishing glaze that will definitely be wax ready when you're finished. Which one you choose depends on how bad the defects in your vehicles are.


One word of caution. When you get down to buffing, don't chase down every last scratch in the paint. Some of them will be pretty deep and you'd have to remove a good amount of clear coat to get them all out. It's not worth it on a daily driver as the clear coat is more valuable for the overall longevity of the paint than a flawless finish is. Mike calls them RIDS in his book: random isolated deep scratches. You need to let those be.
Click to expand...

Good points, I do prefer one step but I also don't see a point in one step if your objective is to deal with one specific problem.

I can see flaws if they are obvious, if they aren't I'm not going to see them and don't care plus I can't always see them that well.

I have a Camaro that isn't a DD but it has all kinds of dings/scratches already and I haven't had it a year IMO the paint is not as strong as they used to be on new cars 5 generations ago; I agree I am not going to mess with the clear coat unless I know how to put it back on and quite frankly I don't so if I want those scratches gone I'd have to do an overhaul of the paint/clearcoat and that's gotta be done by a pro.

I just can see obvious water spots on my pickup which is my DD and I want them removed although nobody is going to see it unless they walk right up to it but knowing that its there doesn't sit well with me.
 
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