Wheel well coatings

I use Meg's All-Season Dressing, but the Hydro2 and DLUX are interesting suggestions.
 
Instead of spending a lot of money on DLUX or C5 for your wheel wheels why don't you try one of those OTC products that are out now like 'Wipe On'. Amour All has that trim restorer that supposed to last 100 washes. TW has a similar product. They all seem to be urethane based. They would be a smaller investment.
 
I would be skeptical. I was never a fan of armour all. Maybe the products are better now

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They're semi permanent coatings. They don't bead water or last as long as like DLUX or C5, but for $10-20 they should last longer than Hyper Dressing or Bare Bones would. I experimented with Wipe On on trim before on a freebie detail and it works fine. Just don't leave it wet like the directions. Looks better if you wipe the excess off with a MF. The MF will turn hard when it dries. Would be perfectly fine for wheel wells. All you want is for it to darken the liner so the wells not noticeable. Any more than that is a plus.

I normally will use Carpro PERL because it wipes on so easy and spreads quite far. I have also used UTTG and AF Revive on wheel off details. All 3 will keep the wheel wells cleaner looking for longer.
 
frankprozzoly said:
The car is new and I want a more permanent product on the trim now that winter is upon us.
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This is a daily driver I take it? Why bother worrying about plastic wheel well liners and protecting them when salt is more of an issue on metal parts.

Up here where we get real winters and they use lots of salt, we have a product called Krown which I know works having used the product since 1990. We keep our cars 15+ years and they are rust-free when selling them.

As for plastic fender liners, after cleaning them the first time, I used Meguiar's #40 Vinyl & Rubber Cleaner & Conditioner. I spray it on the parts and let it soak overnight before wiping off any excess.

These fender liners are over 15 years old...
IMG_1768-L.jpg
 
FYI Bare Bones is the worse. It's solvent/silicone/oil based and turns you fender wells into a sludge fest.
 
I haven't had an issue with barbones, no streaking at all. I have plastic and an underbody coating in my wheel wells. Only use once every couple months and touch up with silk shine.

I let it soak, for 10 min, then wipe excess off.
 
allenk4 said:
My prep for DLUX:

- Spray liberally with cheap APC (LA Totally Awesome)

- Scrub with black MF mitt with car wash soap

- Rinse and repeat steps 1 & 2

- Spray liberally with 70% IPA diluted 1:1 with distilled water

- Allow to dry completely

- Apply DLUX liberally using the supplied low nap MF and foam block


It may sound.like a lot of effort up front, but when do your 1st wash after application and you hit the WW with a blast from the hose, it is all worth it
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Great advice allenk4 thanks. I've actually been using the Meguiars hyper dressing as well for wheel wells but the DLUX sounds like a great new option for longer lasting results.

I currently have the meguiars APC, that should work just as well as the totally awesome and the Detailers cleanse-all exterior cleaner right?
Before buying the Meguiars All purpose cleaner, many years ago I was using the purple stuff (autozone) and I just hated the cleaners that leave the white dry film behind.
 
swanicyouth said:
FYI Bare Bones is the worse. It's solvent/silicone/oil based and turns you fender wells into a sludge fest.
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KMdef9 said:
I haven't had an issue with barbones, no streaking at all. I have plastic and an underbody coating in my wheel wells. Only use once every couple months and touch up with silk shine.

I let it soak, for 10 min, then wipe excess off.
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:agree: Unlike swanicyouth, I've been using Bare Bones for years with great results. I go through about 3 fender well washing before coating with Bare Bones.
 
Mirror Finish said:
This is a daily driver I take it? Why bother worrying about plastic wheel well liners and protecting them when salt is more of an issue on metal parts.

Up here where we get real winters and they use lots of salt, we have a product called Krown which I know works having used the product since 1990. We keep our cars 15+ years and they are rust-free when selling them.

As for plastic fender liners, after cleaning them the first time, I used Meguiar's #40 Vinyl & Rubber Cleaner & Conditioner. I spray it on the parts and let it soak overnight before wiping off any excess.

These fender liners are over 15 years old...
IMG_1768-L.jpg
Click to expand...

Krown looks like a business. It's not a product you can buy and put on yourself? Its a daily driver and I keep it pretty clean. I just thought of using something that's a little stronger than hyper dressing.

What kind of car is that in the picture. Looks cool

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For a area that gets abuse, never thought of a coating. I have used them all. Griots/bare bones/megs all season etc....

The best for me is megs hyper dressing at 4:1 SOWA No drips runs or uneven areas. I looked a long time for a no mess, spray on walk away product. Found it. :props:
 
I love hyper dressing. It looks awesome. The cons are overspray and it has to sit for awhile to dry unless you wipe after spraying. I think you get a nicer look if it drys overnight

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Of course you could just use the old wholesaler trick and spray them with a cheap shaker can of black Krylon. ;)
 
FWIW I have less than an inch between my wheel arches and tires; no way I'm getting up in there without removing the wheels, and no way anybody can actually see the condition of the wells. But when I rebuilt my suspension early this summer I had the plastic liners out and brought them back to pristine condition with heavy duty Meg's APC+ and a stiff brush plus a power washer. It didn't occur to me to waste product before reinstalling them because they are truly hidden.

Or do all of you perform these steps because it helps you sleep at night?
 
frankprozzoly said:
I love hyper dressing. It looks awesome. The cons are overspray and it has to sit for awhile to dry unless you wipe after spraying. I think you get a nicer look if it drys overnight

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Yes. After it sets up it leaves a perfect finish. Thats the beauty of it. No applicators or mess. Ever try it on a engine? WOW. Same results. After you clean the engine, it does not even have to by dry. SOWA. After it sets, it leaves a perfect looking engine. And being water based, it's SAFE under there. HYPER DRESSING. One product that i would not want to be without. :xyxthumbs:
 
SameGuy said:
FWIW I have less than an inch between my wheel arches and tires; no way I'm getting up in there without removing the wheels, and no way anybody can actually see the condition of the wells. But when I rebuilt my suspension early this summer I had the plastic liners out and brought them back to pristine condition with heavy duty Meg's APC+ and a stiff brush plus a power washer. It didn't occur to me to waste product before reinstalling them because they are truly hidden.

Or do all of you perform these steps because it helps you sleep at night?
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Thats the difference between a SUV/TRUCK & Cars. The wells on a suv/truck can be seen. It really gives that final POP dressing the wells afer a wash. Agree. On a car, they are less noticable if at all.
 
Good point. On some cars they are noticeable, too (ie wife's 2002 Accord sedan). I'll hit 'em with HD at tire change in about a month.
 
Krown is a business. A better choice would be a generous coat of Fluid Film, or as a second choice, Waxoyl. The wet woolly mitten smell of Fluid Film dissipates fairly quickly, but the protection stays put and lasts all winter for a LOT less money than a commercial "Rust Check" type treatment.

My mom's Corolla gets an annual rustproofing treatment (commercial) and while there is little to no rust on her 12 year old car, I can't tell you what a PITA that stuff is when I'm cleaning or fixing her car. They spray it everywhere and it is thick and attracts dirt; they don't properly clean off the old layers when re-applying the following year so it builds up. Her car was overheating this summer, and when I popped the hood, oh jeezus. About a half inch of the black grease on 90% of her rad. Took all day to get it clean. The car feels like a four cylinder Lincoln Town Car because they spray indiscriminately over plastic wheel well liners and under trays. They drill holes in doors, jambs and other enclosed sections and fill the cavities then install plugs. The car must weigh 500 lbs more than stock.
 
I'll look at fluid film. I plan to jack the car up and get under there to clean before winter

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