Dr Colorchip??

DaveT435

DaveT435

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I got on the highway not knowing they were grinding up the road before resurfacing. I started hearing an ungodly sound, like tiny peddles hitting the front of my car. What actually was hitting the front of my car were tiny shards of ash fault.

I slowed down to distance myself from the vehicle in front of me so they would be on the ground before I got to them, unfortunately cars started passing me on both sides so I had no choice but to drive the three miles to an exit.

I hope you can see it in the pictures. There are a couple bigger scratches and about 100 tiny holes in the paint, like the paint had been poked with needles. Most are through the clear.

I hope you can see what I'm talking about, some of the larger ones look like dark spots (black plastic bumper cover) and some look like little white dots. I assume these only went deep enough to hit the primer.

I know Dr Colorchip says it can repair road rash, but the examples I saw of road rash are much bigger scratches and chips.

Has anyone ever used Dr Colorchip to try to repair something like this?? Hope you can see what I'm talking about in the pics. Some of them didn't go all the way through the paint, but there are probably 100 of these all over the front of the car.

I thought about wet sanding to smooth them out as much as possible, but then I still have the issue of missing clear/paint.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


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The #1 chip repair guy in LA uses Dr. Colorchip
 
Hi Dave,
Damn that's a bummer, I especially know how well you take care of your vehicles.

I agree, about all you can do is use something like the Dr C Chip unless you're wishing to go further and have the entire front clip resprayed.

Any chips-pits to the windshield?

I know in Dr C-Chips instructions and with such numerous light damage, I think they suggest just wiping the paint over large areas with a t-shirt dabbed with some of the paint, then spread, then going to work with the Sealact Leveling Solution afterward.

This might be one method, or to just use it conventionally, using the small Microfiber Applicators included in the kit.

I've found with my own kit that to clean the little MF Applicators, or other things like the Threads on the Glass Bottle and Cap, that Naptha (lighter fluid) works.

Oddly, some others might say this supposedly is not the solvent for this particular formulation of Paint, but I myself have found it works.

The one reason one wishes to keep the threads on the Paint Bottle clean is that after awhile the cap can become difficult to remove.

IMO, you will NOT get 100% results in hiding the damage, but it sure will look a heck of a lot better than it previously did, and the paint should offer future protection against corrosion-rust, and future products possibly making such small divots more noticeable. (I do know you are more the Coating type person though)

What you may notice after the C-Chip process, is a slightly duller finish than your factory paint. Even after polishing. Reckon there's little to be done about that.

In your particular instances of the damage you note, it maybe might be wise to order not only the complete kit, but also perhaps an additional bottle of the clear for the lesser damage in which maybe some areas just only look like pock marks in the clear?

The one beauty of the Dr C Chip product, is that one can begin to level within a mere 1/2 dozen minute's time, rather than waiting days upon end for touch up paint to fully dry. It also has a better tendency to stay put on vertical panels versus factory-duplicolor touch up which can run-sag.

Yes, there's the factory touch up option, but then there's "the Blobs", and I've personally found systems like Langka not all that easy to address such Blobs. And wet sanding after can be chancy-risky.

Hope this helps Dave,
Mark
 
Thank you everyone. My concern was that a lot of the holes are so small the product may not stay in them.
 
Hi Dave, I would say "smaller is better", as I know I've touched up some ultra small little ticks in the Tahoe's Paint with this system, and they literally disappeared, meaning I had an ultra hard time re-finding them, even with an eyeball just a few inches from the paint.

Once the paint is applied, then leveled it will pretty much stay put, even with DA'ing with Polishes.

The tricky part, and the learning curve with the Sealact Solution and such slight damage, it that the solution with the applicator towel be just merely, and very lightly wiped across the chip area. Almost with zero pressure applied, just letting the Solution act to dissolve any excess paint.

It's a pretty neat system, and I myself have no regrets purchasing my kit.
Mark
 
MarkD51 said:
Hi Dave,
Damn that's a bummer, I especially know how well you take care of your vehicles.

I agree, about all you can do is use something like the Dr C Chip unless you're wishing to go further and have the entire front clip resprayed.

Any chips-pits to the windshield?

I know in Dr C-Chips instructions and with such numerous light damage, I think they suggest just wiping the paint over large areas with a t-shirt dabbed with some of the paint, then spread, then going to work with the Sealact Leveling Solution afterward.

This might be one method, or to just use it conventionally, using the small Microfiber Applicators included in the kit.

I've found with my own kit that to clean the little MF Applicators, or other things like the Threads on the Glass Bottle and Cap, that Naptha (lighter fluid) works.

Oddly, some others might say this supposedly is not the solvent for this particular formulation of Paint, but I myself have found it works.

The one reason one wishes to keep the threads on the Paint Bottle clean is that after awhile the cap can become difficult to remove.

IMO, you will NOT get 100% results in hiding the damage, but it sure will look a heck of a lot better than it previously did, and the paint should offer future protection against corrosion-rust, and future products possibly making such small divots more noticeable. (I do know you are more the Coating type person though)

What you may notice after the C-Chip process, is a slightly duller finish than your factory paint. Even after polishing. Reckon there's little to be done about that.

In your particular instances of the damage you note, it maybe might be wise to order not only the complete kit, but also perhaps an additional bottle of the clear for the lesser damage in which maybe some areas just only look like pock marks in the clear?

The one beauty of the Dr C Chip product, is that one can begin to level within a mere 1/2 dozen minute's time, rather than waiting days upon end for touch up paint to fully dry. It also has a better tendency to stay put on vertical panels versus factory-duplicolor touch up which can run-sag.

Yes, there's the factory touch up option, but then there's "the Blobs", and I've personally found systems like Langka not all that easy to address such Blobs. And wet sanding after can be chancy-risky.

Hope this helps Dave,
Mark
Click to expand...

Hey Mark,
I think I may have to do some wet sanding before using this product. most of these spots are tiny and the main reason you see them is the paint around them is raised if that makes any sense.
 
DaveT435 said:
Hey Mark,
I think I may have to do some wet sanding before using this product. most of these spots are tiny and the main reason you see them is the paint around them is raised if that makes any sense.
Click to expand...

Makes total sense Dave, I know exactly what you're speaking of.

As you can imagine, this is where exacting care, and patience will be needed. I'm far from expert with taking wet-papers to paint, and I fubarred a few small spots on my Kia's Hood once doing such, but not much caring about such, the hood on the Kia is totally peppered with stone chip damage.

Again, no expert in this field Dave, but as you're wet sanding, you might actually start removing even more of the precious color base? Some would maybe say to apply a small dot of wet paper to a pencil eraser? I've never tried this?

Another option might be one of those little Meg's Sanding Blocks, most Paint Shop Supply Houses carry them. I have one in 2500 Grit, but again, expertise is required.

I know Mike Phillips once spoke about these little Sanding Blocks, offering tips on use, filing off the corners-edges-etc so they won't gouge the paint finish.
Mark
 
Dr. colorchip now has a squirt 'n squeegee repair kit that is designed to work on road rash. I purchased a kit a few weeks ago and used it on my wife's 130k DD.
I had never used any of their products before and was pleased with the results.
There is a definate learning curve, but if I can figure it out so can you.
The end results were not perfect, but compared to the oem paint pens and brush bottles I have used before the Dr. colorchip was superior.

Good Luck.
 
rotzilla said:
Dr. colorchip now has a squirt 'n squeegee repair kit that is designed to work on road rash. I purchased a kit a few weeks ago and used it on my wife's 130k DD.
I had never used any of their products before and was pleased with the results.
There is a definate learning curve, but if I can figure it out so can you.
The end results were not perfect, but compared to the oem paint pens and brush bottles I have used before the Dr. colorchip was superior.

Good Luck.
Click to expand...


I saw that. I contacted AG to see if they could get it for me.i didn't get any response yet. I may have to get it directly from dr Colorchip. it looks like the squeegee will leave a lot less paint where you don't want it making the leveling and gloss much better
 
DaveT435 said:
Hey Mark,
I think I may have to do some wet sanding before using this product. most of these spots are tiny and the main reason you see them is the paint around them is raised if that makes any sense.
Click to expand...

Don't don't don't touch that sandpaper! take it from someone who made that mistake! You"ll burn through that factory clear way before you level any chip. My advice, fill those chips with what ever system you like, none of them will look perfect. If you want perfection you"ll need to have it resprayed. $2100 to fix sanding damage to my front clip, hood, and fenders BTW.
 
I understand what your saying and appreciate the input. I do have some paint and body experience and all I'm trying to do is knock off the part that is above the the clear coat. Tiny raised spots, it will amount to one or two times over it with the paper.
 
View attachment 30621
DaveT435 said:
I understand what your saying and appreciate the input. I do have some paint and body experience and all I'm trying to do is knock off the part that is above the the clear coat. Tiny raised spots, it will amount to one or two times over it with the paper.
Click to expand...

Hi Dave, what do I know, I'm fairly low on he food chain as far as being expert, but I sort of touched on this before, and again recently a few more folks have chimed in about resorting to some sanding methods.

Seems there's an agreement, and as I figgered, wet sanding will only succeed in removing more of your precious paint.

I know you'll hate doing this with all that expensive GTechniq C1 and EXO on board, but you might wish to first only try a'clayin, and a'polishin first, see where that maybe gets you to smooth the surface?

I know you're sick over this, I would be too.

I can tell you horror stories with vehicles I've owned from now till Christmas.

Here's one you'll love. For a period, I had to rent a garage for my 1967 Stingray Convertible. One day going to open the overhead garage door to the garage, the fat ass ##### owner "Joyce" had her Pee Wee Herman Bike parked up against the inside of the Overhead Door. It was leaning against the door evidently. How freaking stupid!

You guessed it, when I opened the door, that freaking 192 lb POS bike fell on the front, and hood of the car.

Believe me when I tell you, I rolled that bike outside, and kicked out every freaking spoke out of the wheels, and slammed it 4 times to the ground in the alley in a fit of rage. She never rode that bike again.

Had their been Dr C-Chip back then, I might've been able to more easily rectify the damage done. I had to go to a paint supply house and have some paint custom mixed. My '67 was freshly re-sprayed in '69 Can Am White.

One of 3 dozen horror stories I can tell you about.
 
Dr. Color Chip "ROCKS" I've done a few and it never let me down.
I now just refer my customers to them so they can learn and do it themselves. It's extremely easy to use
 
Detailing by M said:
Dr. Color Chip "ROCKS" I've done a few and it never let me down.
I now just refer my customers to them so they can learn and do it themselves. It's extremely easy to use
Click to expand...

Thanks, all I have to do is knock down those tiny spots of clear sticking up. Have you used the squeegee on tiny holes? I'm still waiting to hear back from AG if they can get me that kit.
 
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