3 batteries in 2 years, any ideas?

Every VAG car I've seen pulled off a transporter has a solar panel on the dash until it gets PDId. Batteries go flat if not charged, simple fact.
 
SameGuy said:
I don't even think I'd go through all of that now that we know the flashlight is not on a switched circuit. The battery-charger-battery circuit isn't particularly efficient and will present a relatively large parasitic draw. I'd bet it's in the neighborhood of 200 mA even if the flashlight is charged.
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Well, the results are in, the flashlight draws 0.21 volts ... SO, in order to 'fix' the problem, the shop took out the inline fuse and 'lost' it instead of just taking the light out of the charger. Irritating, yes but since I'm going to rewire the system, not a real major thing.
 
swanicyouth said:
I don't think a Suzuki is getting emails from a cloud. Most (all?) of those things are off with the ignition being turned off. Sirius updates and is live with the key - and keyless entry find have been around since the 1980s
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Sorry, I was imprecise with my language, I'm talking about proximity key systems. And my car doesn't sent me any emails while it's in the garage, but if I've missed one it sends me one as soon as I take it out. I kind of doubt my telematics provider is trying to call the car, isn't it more likely the car is trying to call out to report in?

Regardless, my experience WITH MY OWN telematics and proximity key car is that it tends to kill the battery, and the dealer didn't say that was abnormal. It's partly IMO because batteries suck today. And no, this doesn't apply to the OP's Suzuki, we digressed into a general parasitic battery drain discussion. Over and out.
 
Don M said:
My car has gone through three batteries in the last two years. The only 'drains' to the system that I know of are the clock/radio memory and a streamlite flashlight charger hooked up in the trunk.

Any ideas?
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How do you know? Did you measure the current drain?

And how do you know your alternator's voltage regulator is working properly. If it is, you should see at least 14.0V to at most 14.4V at the battery with the engine off idle...say 1500 to 2000 RPM.

There is a reason I have a voltmeter installed in all of my vehicles. So that I know exactly what my battery and charging system is doing. Its the best bit of non-bling you can install.

BTW, I get 15+ years out of my standard flooded lead acid batteries.

Voltmeter-S.jpg
 
For the time being, I'm going to wire the light up to the ignition side, then when I get a chance, I'll wire up a volt meter or amp meter to the system and put the light back on the battery side.
I've had too many years of no problems with the battery side hookup to just blindly follow one mechanic's opinion.
 
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