In praise of Sonax BSD

EVOlved said:
No problem. Always glad to share. You are on the right path I see you getting into CarPro as well.
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Definitely some of the better product I tried so far ;)
I sold most of my stuff recently and switch
Looking forward to try their ech2o lol
 
I actually gave bottles of Sonax BSD to my parents and siblings as I know they rarely wax their vehicles, and with it's ease of use they do not have an excuse to leave their paint unprotected. They all love using it.
 
I have to believe that BS is not a detailer as the name implies but rather a spray wax/sealant. It may be a watered down version of NPS for all I know but it acts, looks and is priced like a quality spray wax.

It is thicker coming out of the bottle than any quick detailer I've ever used and for that reason I have not used it as a minor dirt cleaner like I have other QDs. Unlike most QDs, I would never consider putting BS on anything but a spotless and clean car. I have never used it as a drying aid but that might make the spreading and buffing a little easier. Like its big brother NetShield, it has a tendency to grab the towel, although not quite as much as NS.

The beading is great and I like the looks, especially on my "Diamond White" Mercedes paint. What I consider a bonus is that the car does not hold dirt and minor road grime and always looks clean. This is an excellent product, as are all the Sonax products I've tried, but it is a "spray wax", not a QD.
 
I agree that is is a spray wax/sealant and has to be topped by another LSP if someone wants very glossy paint. Also, is thick and a little grabby but offers good protection. I have also tried the other QD of Sonax which called Turbo Glanz and I think it is a more friendly new version of BSD.
 
alexxxx89 said:
Are you using a dedicated MF detergent? You should also boil your MFs regularly based upon soil level and frequency of use. I use Micro Restore and it is great. MFs are fluffy and not grabby.
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No, I just use regular detergent. Never tried the MF detergents.

The biggest offender was Eagle 1 wax-as-you-dry. While it worked well, it ruined a couple of my MF drying towels. Like I said in the previous post, it basically waterproofed them. This happened a long time ago, but I seem to remember trying to boil them, but it did not help. In hindsight, had I washed them in hot water immediately after drying the car, maybe they could have been saved.
 
alexxxx89 said:
Are you using a dedicated MF detergent? You should also boil your MFs regularly based upon soil level and frequency of use. I use Micro Restore and it is great. MFs are fluffy and not grabby.
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What? 'splain please ;)
 
nick the greek said:
I agree that is is a spray wax/sealant and has to be topped by another LSP if someone wants very glossy paint.



Why would you have to top a spray wax/sealant with a lsp? So, you would apply BSD and top with SPNS?
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I find it's always a good idea to wash towels right away, especially those used with LSPs, as allowing them to dry sets the product into the towel just as it would on the paint.
 
aim4squirrels said:
I find it's always a good idea to wash towels right away, especially those used with LSPs, as allowing them to dry sets the product into the towel just as it would on the paint.
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This is hard at least for me to do bc I have high capacity HE washer that often doesn't sense a 3 or 4 towel load.
 
aim4squirrels said:
I find it's always a good idea to wash towels right away, especially those used with LSPs, as allowing them to dry sets the product into the towel just as it would on the paint.
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We have crazy water restrictions in California so this wouldn't work. I take a 3 gallon bucket and put the hottest water that comes out my tap with a squeeze of MF cleaner and a small scoop of OxyClean. This seems to work good for me, then after 3 or 4 days of sitting in there I have enough for a full load and wash them. Perhaps my method doesn't really do anything at all, but it at least to me seems to help.
 
Slightly off topic but still following along. Does anyone have an opinion of the differences of the liquid Oxyclean or the powder? I've had the powder not completely disolve in the HE washer so I mainly use the liquid.
Please move to the appropriate section if needed.
Thanks
 
KB in MD said:
Slightly off topic but still following along. Does anyone have an opinion of the differences of the liquid Oxyclean or the powder? I've had the powder not completely disolve in the HE washer so I mainly use the liquid.
Please move to the appropriate section if needed.
Thanks
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Like detergents, use liquid and not powder.
 
KB in MD said:
Thanks for the link.
I used to use some of his methods but they don't work with todays HE (or at least our LG) front loader machines. You can't do a reset during a previously started wash because it drains all of the water and starts over even if you're going from a small load to a large load.
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No problem mate :)
We learn something everyday
 
KB in MD said:
Thanks for the link.

I used to use some of his methods but they don't work with todays HE (or at least our LG) front loader machines. You can't do a reset during a previously started wash because it drains all of the water and starts over even if you're going from a small load to a large load.
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Front loaders can be a pain. You could try adding the vinegar into the bleach section of your detergent dispenser. Or do a separate rinse only cycle with a cup of vinegar added to the drum. Since it's an HE you shouldn't be worried about the extra water use.

I bought a huge HE top loader and haven't looked back. Better cleaning, no seals to keep clean and never smelly. The only downside is that it's so big and uses weight sensors to determine how much water to use that super small loads are no longer possible.
 
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