New Black Car With DISO ... Please Help!!

NickNickNick

NickNickNick

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So I picked up my showroom kept, 2015 Crystal Black Silica Forester XT and noticed the dealer decided to take a buffing wheel to the entire car as part of their "prep." I was pissed when I noticed the wheel marks and major swirls but the damage was done and I'd rather fix it myself than let the dealer yahoo make it worse.
Knowing enough about detailing cars in my younger years, I know I can correct this with some effort but am getting acquainted to the new products and techniques.
After doing my research I decided to move forward with the following items:

  1. CG Mr Pink Wash
  2. CG Blue Clay and Luber
  3. Nanoskin Fine Wash Mitt
  4. WG Swirl Remover Twins
  5. Collinite 845
  6. Collinite 915
  7. CG M Seal Factory Sealant
  8. Hex Logic Orange Pads
  9. Hex Logic White Pads
  10. Hex Logic Black Pads

I already own a Shur Hold DA that I use to detail my boat with HL Orange pads twice a year.

Questions I have:
  • Being that the car is days old, do I need to use the clay or the nanoskin mitt to begin the swirl removal process? Which would be the best to use at this point?
  • In what order should I use the remaining products? WG Swirl Remover, then WG Finishing Polish, then M seal, then Collinite?
  • Do you recommend an IPA at any point?

I understand its tough to see the severity of the swirls without pictures but I will try to post some shortly. On a scale of 1 to 5 with 5 being the worst, I'd say its a 5.

Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated and thank you all in advance!

Nick
 
NickNickNick said:
So I picked up my showroom kept, 2015 Crystal Black Silica Forester XT and noticed the dealer decided to take a buffing wheel to the entire car as part of their "prep." I was pissed when I noticed the wheel marks and major swirls but the damage was done and I'd rather fix it myself than let the dealer yahoo make it worse.
Knowing enough about detailing cars in my younger years, I know I can correct this with some effort but am getting acquainted to the new products and techniques.
After doing my research I decided to move forward with the following items:

  1. CG Mr Pink Wash
  2. CG Blue Clay and Luber
  3. Nanoskin Fine Wash Mitt
  4. WG Swirl Remover Twins
  5. Collinite 845
  6. Collinite 915
  7. CG M Seal Factory Sealant
  8. Hex Logic Orange Pads
  9. Hex Logic White Pads
  10. Hex Logic Black Pads

I already own a Shur Hold DA that I use to detail my boat with HL Orange pads twice a year.

Questions I have:
  • Being that the car is days old, do I need to use the clay or the nanoskin mitt to begin the swirl removal process? Which would be the best to use at this point?
  • In what order should I use the remaining products? WG Swirl Remover, then WG Finishing Polish, then M seal, then Collinite?
  • Do you recommend an IPA at any point?

I understand its tough to see the severity of the swirls without pictures but I will try to post some shortly. On a scale of 1 to 5 with 5 being the worst, I'd say its a 5.

Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated and thank you all in advance!

Nick
Click to expand...


The car may be "days" old to you, but when was it actually built and how was it transported to the dealership? I doubt it was in a covered trailer. Therefore I would definitely go clay/nanoskin after a good wash (if you want, do the baggie test first - wash the car and place your hand in a plastic sandwich bag, then run it across the paint. If you feel any bumps or rough areas, then you definitely need to clay). After that, use a light to medium polish/swirl remover on a test spot. If that clears up the DISO, then continue on with that product for the rest of the car, if not move up to the next level of swirl remover that you have or a more aggressive pad. Once the DISO has been removed to your satisfaction, then apply the Collinite, step back and enjoy the view
.
 
In addition to the advice already given, I'd do a test spot with the finishing polish on a polishing pad first to see if that works before going down to the swirl remover. Subi paint is very soft and easy to correct. No need to use a more aggressive polish if it isn't needed.

The difference between using the 845 and the 915 may depend on the look you're after. You can't go wrong either way. I use 845 on my black VW and it's amazing. However, 915 has more carnauba in it and folks have said it provides a warmer wax gloss vs more glass-like shine of the 845. I'm tempted to pick up some 915 to give it a shot.
 
Sorry to hear this....

Factory clearcoats are thin to start with. When they put hologram swirls "into" the paint think of these as "cuts" in the paint. This is removing perfectly good paint.

In order for you to remove the cuts in the paint you have to remove even more perfectly good paint. The idea being to remove enough paint to level the very top surface with the lowest depths of the cuts/scratches in the paint.

That's a shame and a waste of perfectly good paint all because the dealerships simply don't care about you or your car, just your bank account.

I'd return it for a car they have not "touched".

Send them the link to this thread.

If you decide to keep it, here's a tip...


Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation


The Shurhold DA Polisher is probably the weakest dual action polisher I've ever used as compared to the Porter Cable, Griot's and Meguiar's versions.

Thin pads rotate better and from memory Hex Logic pads are thick. Wet pads don't rotate very well either, so as you work around the car thick foam pads become wet or saturated with product and you lose rotation which means you lose correction which means you're spinning your wheels.

We just got in the new Meguiar's THIN foam discs and these would leverage every ounce of power out of your Shurhold.

:)
 
Everything you need right here! Welcome (back) to the obsession and good luck with your efforts!
 
Thanks for the info!

Mike,
I hear you on the Shur Hold power and makes sense that this machine is extremely popular with marine fanatics as fiberglass dosent always require the higher amounts of power.

That said ... I ordered a Porter Cable 7424XP Perfect Starter Kit to add to my arsenal.

Desertnate,
Great idea - I'd rather stop at polish if possible and use the swirl remover at a later date.

Now the issue is finding a window of opportunity to get a quick fix in before the weather gets locked here in New York (not Buffalo thank God!).

Thanks again,
Nick!
 
NickNickNick said:
Thanks for the info!

Mike,
I hear you on the Shur Hold power and makes sense that this machine is extremely popular with marine fanatics as fiberglass doesn't always require the higher amounts of power.
Click to expand...

Actually, whether fiberglass needs a lot of power depends upon the condition and what you're trying to do.

Fiberglas gel-coat in bad condition takes a boat-load of power. (pun intended :D )

A new boat with a fiberglas gel-coat in new condition doesn't require much power as all you want to do is machine wax it with a finishing wax.

Most of my boat detailing work is doing extreme makeovers on severely neglected boats and at this point in life my default fix is to simply machine wetsand severely oxidized gel-coat boats because it's the fastest way to correct them with the least amount of muscle.


:dblthumb2:
 
Thanks for the reply - I am in Staten Island, NY.
Whats amazing is there aren't many professional detail shops local to me ... might be time to think about a side biz down the road :xyxthumbs:
 
I think there is someone from Staten Island lurking around here...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
:welcome: to AGO Nick!:buffing:

Good to see you went ahead and ordered he PC, (although I'd have suggested the Griot Garage for several reasons, better performance, more power, lifetime warranty). In any event... the PC *should* (with the right pads) be enough to work with that soft 'subee' paint. ;)

You know of course the difference between keeping up ANY color car but black is that they (all the rest) are a "hobby" whereas keeping up a black vehicle, (especially one with soft paint) is a "career". :laughing:

The Wolfgang Twins are a mighty duo indeed. I'd normally say get Uber compound 3.0 but with your soft paint you might not even need it. (Think you've already gotten one comment on that btw.) Remember.... do your test spot, do your test spot, DO your test spot!

Best way to get that done (after all the decontamination, rail dust, micro-particle removal) is to tape off the hood into say 6 squares. Then prime your LEAST AGRESSIVE pad, start with your LEAST AGRESSIVE polish, speed 4~5, slow arm speed, medium arm pressure, then do 4 section passes. Next to that square move to a little MORE aggressive pad, same polish, same machine speed, arm speed, arm pressure, and same amount of passes. One "test spot" (square) will have better results than the other.

If neither are as good as you like move to your next, more aggressive compound. Use the same two (type of cut) pads (not the SAME pads as they have the wrong product in them already) and then try the 'test spots' in two more squares on your hood.

The thing is..... by the time you do a few test spots you'll start to see what works, what doesn't, what is going to get close, and what will take you to the point where you'll be either able to be LSP (Last Step Product) ready OR where you'll move to your finishing polish and THEN be LSP ready.

I know that Wolfgang talks about one of their polishes as a "glaze" when in actuality it's a polish, then there is yet another polish as well.
In any event, you'll be able to either get it done with a single product and be ready for sealant, or a combo of 2 product, and/or switching out pads during the working cycle of a product to get it to finish down LSP ready. :dblthumb2:


Also they have the new AIO Wolfgang product that has been getting GREAT reviews.

While on that line of thought.... Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 is SERIOUSLY GOOD STUFF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Yes it cost more than Colli 845, but it's REALLY good. (And I don't even have any here now, yet do have 845..... go figure.) :rolleyes:

To expand on the claying process/need to clay. I'd say get a small bottle of IRON-X snow foam soap, or just plain old IRON-X and go over that new car with it. There *IS* rail dust in it, you can count on that. IRON-X is the best way to tackle that problem, hands down.

From there you can actually clay it (Nanoskin it) with clean soapy water as your lube if you like. For that matter.... you can get a Nanoskin 5½" pad for your buffer and use THAT to do your vehicle(s). Then just use regular clay for up by the edges. Or the smaller Nanoskin hand held foam backed pads. (Which are GREAT!):dblthumb2:

Good luck, and make sure to post some photos as you go.... nothing like seeing those DISO's getting taken care of on fresh black paint. :D
 
I would've refused delivery of the vehicle. told them to stick such right up their asses, and either order-get me another, or it's bye bye.

Time for this country and it's people to grow a pair. Maybe this country will then come out of it's dope induced cloud of rat-shyt.

When I bought my 94 Lincoln, there was a crapload of DISOs right in the middle of the hood. I remarked about such, and the manager told me "Oh, we can take care of that"! I told him "Not on your life"!
"Touch the car with your "detailers" and I walk right out the door"!

I ain't BS'ing either. Business is business, money is money. And such I play no games with.
 
I dropped a $20K check, and a trade (which of course they took me on) with a $40K+ Lincoln. I took the next day off work, detailed, and the car was immaculate.

Drove into work at 1pm, like I owned the place, and my "buddies" were pulling out screwdrivers out of their pockets, making like they were going to carve the car up, just cause I busted their Cojones.

Welcome to Chicago, that's where I was at at the time, what a wonderful city, huh?! There, the more you spend, the faster they'll screw it up.
(rant off)
 
Hey Nick, welcome to AGO, I am from Staten Island. I sent you a PM, I do detailing part time, so I am currently closed for the winter. Too many office parties and family functions. If you are willing to wait, I can fix you up next year. Whatever you do, do not go to a car wash on SI to fix it.
 
NickNickNick said:
That said ... I ordered a Porter Cable 7424XP Perfect Starter Kit to add to my arsenal.


Nick!
Click to expand...


I don't have anything against the Griot's DA but here's what I do know, anytime I use what I call a simple DA or an entry level DA I always reach for the Porter Cable first.​

As long as you're using thin pads like the LC 5.5" Flat pads or the new Meguiar's 5/5" flat pads this tool will always get the job done and for the most part they never break.

Millions of cars have been de-swirled using only the PC. If they don't have enough power for what a person wants to do then chances are probably very good it's not a different DA they need it's a rotary buffer or a Flex 3401.

Stick with thin pads in the 5" diameter range as thick pad just absorb and dissipate the power and use high quality compounds and polishes and the PC will tackle anything you should be tackling. It might take a little longer than it cold if you also had a direct drive tool but if you're not doing this for money the time difference isn't the key factor.


:)
 
Sorry for my earlier rants and rattling on. Hope all works out well for you.
Happy Holidays all.
 
Mark,
Its all good - no problem with the rant. It was quite funny as I know exactly where you were coming from.

Mike,
Thanks for the extra info.
I want to order the LC 5.5 pads - you mention the "thin" pads though I dont recall seeing that mentioned in the descriptions. Can you point me to a model or product number?

Thanks again all and I wish you Happy Holidays!

Nick
 
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