Brand new Jeep Wrangler. How should I detail it from the start

Gusto2465

Gusto2465

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So I ordered A 2015 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport in Tank green November 2014. It arrives today. I've detailed numerous vehicles but they have always been used. This is my first brand new vehicle and I wanted to start it out right. What steps do you think I should take to get the paint in amazing shape and to prevent any contaminants down the road. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 
i would start with a good inspection, if it's been through the dealer's detail department you will need to fix what they left behind. Opti-coat is the first thing that comes to mind if you want long lasting protection.
 
Congrats on the new vehicle! Agree with Matt, a good inspection will let you know if there is any current damage. As far as preventative, frequent washing with good washing techniques followed up with quality waxes and sealants is my advice. Enjoy the new Jeep!
 
Congratulations on the new ride, but like stated coat the vehicle in a permanent coating such as CQuartz or take it to a Opti coat pro dealer, and if you have the funds to splurge then ill also apply coatings to all surfaces after a good inspection and or wash and claying and if you have some on hand iron x the paintwork too as a preventive measure
 
Gusto2465 said:
So I ordered A 2015 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport in Tank green November 2014. It arrives today. I've detailed numerous vehicles but they have always been used. This is my first brand new vehicle and I wanted to start it out right. What steps do you think I should take to get the paint in amazing shape and to prevent any contaminants down the road. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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Same way you would with a used.
1. Inspect
2. Correct paint accordingly
3. Protect

The difference, there's usually less crud to get through and deal with on a new car.
 
dont forget about interior protection! all hard surfaces, and soft.
 
What color is it? Hard top? Hard top painted? Is the trim painted? Leather inside?
I used to own one, so I can advise a bit.
 
First and foremost don't let the dealers detailers touch it, they willl most likley do more harm than good and will create more work for you. Personally I wouldn't even let them wash it. When I purchased my GC it came off the truck in front of me and I told them to pull the protective plastic off and leave it as is.
 
Wash
Decon (I would Iron-x and clay or clay substitute)
Inspect
Test spot
Correct
IPA or equivalent wipedown
Coat (I recently bought OPT gloss coat to try but there are other good ones like CQuartz)
 
EVOlved said:
Wash
Decon (I would Iron-x and clay or clay substitute)
Inspect
Test spot
Correct
IPA or equivalent wipedown
Coat (I recently bought OPT gloss coat to try but there are other good ones like CQuartz)
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Sorry to interrupt, when should the Iron X be used, before or after claying? I have speedy prep towel, flex prep pad and 2 month old car, with no water spots and swirl marks.
Thank you in advance.


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Roikins said:
Sorry to interrupt, when should the Iron X be used, before or after claying? I have speedy prep towel, flex prep pad and 2 month old car, with no water spots and swirl marks.
Thank you in advance.


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I always use after claying. Get the top coat completely clean with the clay then iron x to get all the iron and remaining! Crap in the paint.
 
Congrats on the new JKU!
After regular cleaning, decon & paint correction if needed, you should consider coatings specially if you're going to use the JKU for what it's built for (pavement is optional:cool:)..
Opti-Coat or CQuartz for paint and wheels, Opti-Glass for glass, Dlux for trim and Tuf Shine for tires..:props:
 
Prophizee said:
I always use after claying. Get the top coat completely clean with the clay then iron x to get all the iron and remaining! Crap in the paint.
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Got it , thank you very much for the advice, now I know how to do it.
Thanks again.


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Roikins said:
Got it , thank you very much for the advice, now I know how to do it.
Thanks again.


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I actually do it the other way but either way it will get its job done!!
 
EVOlved said:
I actually do it the other way but either way it will get its job done!!
Click to expand...


Ahaa, OK, thanks, so it really doesn't matter, good to know.
Thanks again. Because of you guys, I really would like to thank all of you , I got so much more knowledge in last few months, that I never knew in my whole life.
That things like these exist and it's not just wash the car with one pocket and leave it to dry :))
And apply some unknown speedy spray wax once in a while :)))
Thanks again.


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I just read trough the link you sent makes sense learn something new everyday awesome. Thanks firecorgi
 
With the older acid based iron fallout removers, you were to use the fallout remover first and then clay. The fallout remover does not dissolve all of the particle, but makes it smaller so that it is loose in the hole/pore it used to penetrate the clear. Then the clay barring will be more able to pull the particles out instead of shearing them off leaving a portion still penetrating below the clear coat. It makes sense to me.

I've always used the IronX/etc in the same fashion as the acid based ones where used.
 
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