Before I begin with Porta Cable

[greenwa1]

Mike, I just purchased your Black Fire detail kit with the Porta Cable polisher. I've watched the videos which were great but I have a couple of questions before I get started that I hope you can help me with.

1. I have cars with different levels of paint from ones that have scratches (the reason that I brought the kit) to ones that have new paint some clear coated and some not. How should I treat these paints that don't require scratch removal?

2. Because I have different paint varieties and colors do I need different pads for each car or can I use the same pad on different cars?

3. How do I clean the pads for the Porta Cable once they get really dirty?

Thanks for the help with my questions and I look forward to using the products that you offer!

 

[MarkB]

Different pads have different cutting ability. From heavy to none. Always start with the least aggressive. And always do a test spot first
Watch Mike Phillips video on YouTube. How to clean pads on the fly.
Also, a great place to start is autogeek.net. Lower left corner, detailing facts, tips & tricks

 

[MarkD51]

Hi, and welcome.

MarkB has giving some good advice. Watching many of Mike's Vids, and his comments will help immensely.

As for cleaning pads, yes, cleaning on the fly like Mike demonstrates works very good, but it only works to a point.

That at some point, whether the dirtiness of the paint, or the over excess of polishing products built up in the pads, etc, they then should be removed, and swapped out for a clean pad.

It's a good reason to then have a decent number of the various pads on hand, this way time is saved, and you then worry about the pad cleanup after the polishing job is completed.

It would not be unusual to go through an average of 4-5 pads of a specific type for a average sized vehicle with a one step polishing.

Another good reason to have a good quantity of pads on hand when you work, is that each individual pads sees less work, and wear and tear. Heat is an enemy to the foam Pads and overworking them will shorten their lives.

Two step polishing methods may require even more Pads on hand.

As Mike P would always teach, to work as clean as possible. The cleaner you work, it will be an aid to achieving the very best results.

As for when all is done, and what is the best products and methods, I've recognized that the specifically made Pad Cleaners by the like of Pinnacle, Wolfgang, XMT, Blackfire, etc., usually do work much better IMO than many off the shelf All Purpose Cleaners, they cut through the dirts, and other Polish ingredients better, and often are not as soapy, meaning easier to rinse clean. Yes, they usually cost more money, but IMO are worth it.

But one can use good All Purpose Cleaners to good effect as well, spray, let sit, then thoroughly rinse, and I always air dry, setting the pads on something like a clean bucket grit guard.

Once fully dry, I then place them inside zip lock bags so they stay as clean as possible while in storage.

 

[greenwa1]

Thanks to both Marks for the great answers. I watched the cleaning pad on the fly on utube and it was very helpful. I didn't know it would take an average of 4-5 pads on an average car, interesting.

I'm new to all of this and reading up on as much information as I can. Appreciate all of the help, Happy Holidays to everyone!

 

[MarkD51]

Thanks to both Marks for the great answers. I watched the cleaning pad on the fly on utube and it was very helpful. I didn't know it would take an average of 4-5 pads on an average car, interesting.

I'm new to all of this and reading up on as much information as I can. Appreciate all of the help, Happy Holidays to everyone!

Hi again,
The amount of pads you may use per given paint correction is not something that is set in stone.

But, if I'm looking at the correct kit you bought, it appears that it comes with a 5" Urethane Backing Plate (this is good), but only one of each Pad.

Once a test spot is done, and you get confirmation of what product and what pad is working on a test area, the usual common consensus is to repeat the same processes on the rest of the vehicle.

With only one specific pad type in your arsenal, you're gonna come up short.

One could of course divide such work up in parts, meaning one doesn't necessarily have to correct paint in one go. A third or half "could be done", but I know most don't really like working this way. I know I don't.

Once you get going with the washing, claying, possible Iron-X decon, drying, masking trim, and now you're all set to polish, it's good to get through that correction step, without having again to possibly re-wash, etc.

Unless you're working on basket cases, the orange and white LC 5.5" flat pads are ones that will be commonly used for most corrections on fairly decent paint finishes that aren't total junk yard jobs.

You can then fine tune their cutting abilities with the aggressiveness of the polishes or compounds then used. A compound with the white pad will cut and remove deeper sleeks scratches quicker than a finishing polish with the same white pad.

Either pads I mention will work for paint correction, whereas the softer blue, red or black pads have no cut, are more used for applying waxes or sealants-glazes.

As I mentioned in my previous post, the more pads of any given type on hand, the better, that with light useage per pad as you go, then swap for clean every couple-few panels, these pads can then last quite a few many uses. Yep, they aren't cheap IMO, and that's one reason why I say having more on hand than you think you'll need will actually be cheaper, and beneficial in the long run.

Again hope this helps. Much of what I say has been taught to me and learned by the myriad of wiser, more experienced other members here.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Mike, I just purchased your Black Fire detail kit with the Porter Cable polisher. I've watched the videos which were great but I have a couple of questions before I get started that I hope you can help me with.

1. I have cars with different levels of paint from ones that have scratches (the reason that I brought the kit) to ones that have new paint some clear coated and some not. How should I treat these paints that don't require scratch removal?

Unless they are brand spanking new they probably have at a minimum some level fine or shallow swirls and scratches, perhaps just light marring from washing, drying and wiping. Even if they are brand spanking new chances are good the dealership inflicted some level of light or shallow scratching.

If they've been parked outside for any length of time since you bought them, for example if you drive them to work and they are parked outside while you're at work, then they could have some level of road grime, air borne dirt and pollution, etc.

For all the above reasons it's a good idea to at a minimum do a light machine polishing to undo any light damage and get the paint down to a clean base, that is bare naked paint.

See the pictures in this article to see what I mean and keep in mind the car in these pictures is a Garage Queen and it still needed polishing but most people wouldn't know it needed polishing until I placed a tape-line on the cowel and then only polished one side.


Here's why you need to polish paint...



So to answer your first question...

For your cars in good to excellent shape.

1. Wash and dry
2. Chemically decontaminate - this is an optional step.
3. Inspect for above surface bonded contaminants using the Baggie Test. If the paint feels rough or has bumps then using detailing clay or a product from Nanoskin to remove the contaminants.

4. Machine polish using a fine cut polish and then wax the cars in good shape.

5. The cars in bad shape take a medium cut polish or a compound to them, then re-polish with a finer polish or a finishing polish and then wax.

2. Because I have different paint varieties and colors do I need different pads for each car or can I use the same pad on different cars?

First here's what I type on the forum all the time,

More pads is better

Paint polishing is done best when you can switch to a clean, dry pad often. How often I'll let you and your budget decide but trying to buff out one car with 2-3 pads is extreme. Trying to buff out 2-3 cars with 2-3 pads is more extreme.

Here's a few reasons why...

1. As you work around a car your pads become wet or saturated with product. This is natural as your products are liquid and foam absorbs liquids. When pads become wet they don't rotate as well nor do they work as well when it comes to any abrading or cleaning action.

2. Trying to use a single pad for too long actually wears out the pad prematurely. Pads will laster longer overall if you use more pads for a single car and then clean and dry the pads for the next detailing project.

A good rule of thumb is in a perfect world a dedicated pad for each panel.

A panel = a door, or a fender, of a hood, etc.

In a less perfect world, a pad for 2 panels.

In an even less perfect world, a pad for 3 panels and so on...

The paint polishing process goes faster, you do better work and get better results when you use more pads to buff out a car than less pads. That's not marketing, that's just how the paint polishing process works.


In my how-to book I recommend a number of ways to approach the detailing process, one of the ways is to only tackle a panel or two at a time. This could be a day or a weekend, regardless, after buffing out the panel take and wash your pads and let them dry and then you can tackle the next panel or set of panels with clean, dry pads.

3. How do I clean the pads for the Porter Cable once they get really dirty?

How to clean your foam pad on the fly

Thanks for the help with my questions and I look forward to using the products that you offer!

Sorry for the late reply. Been kind of busy offline with other projects.

 

[MarkD51]

Thanks Mike,

It appears then I have said no wrong from my advice, thank you for chiming in Mike! (although perhaps my terminology was more in a layman's terms).

You teach us well Mike, and I think we try our best to help other folks in your absence, knowing that at times you are busy.

 

[MarkD51]

I've noticed this too, and I'm sure all others have too Mike, about what you say of saturated Pads then bogging down a DA Machine, (with of course the exception of the Forced Rotation Flex DA Machine.)

This becomes real evident on my little Griots 3" DA, that I've noticed after just a short use on a small area, rotation becomes pretty much non-existent.

One of the reasons I recently have gotten a 3" (2-7/8") Backing Plate as well as having 3.5" and 5" Backing Plates for the Porter Cable DA.

I think for my own use, I'll dedicate the little Griots for either Headlight Correction, or for just very small areas-touch up work where the larger DA is much harder to maneuver.
Mark

 

[Blade]

In my how-to book I recommend a number of ways to approach the detailing process, one of the ways is to only tackle a panel or two at a time. This could be a day or a weekend, regardless, after buffing out the panel take and wash your pads and let them dry and then you can tackle the next panel or set of panels with clean, dry pads.

I should have read your book, Mike. I came to this process on my own after spending 12 hr days working on my cars. I do this for fun and after 5 or 6 hours of polishing and seeing only half the job is done, every step or movement became a chore to the point that I started rushing things just to get 'er done.

To the OP: I'd follow Mike's suggestion especially if you don't have enough pads. Breaking down the process per panel, instead of the whole car at a time, not only allows clean pads to start with, but also renewed energy and enthusiasm, which might be gone or depleted if you tackled the entire car all at once. Those last few panels or sections may not get the same attention to detail as the initials ones after 10 hours on the job. I actually enjoyed the whole experience when drawn out over a few days like that.

 

[dlc95]

Thanks Mike,

It appears then I have said no wrong from my advice, thank you for chiming in Mike! (although perhaps my terminology was more in a layman's terms).

You teach us well Mike, and I think we try our best to help other folks in your absence, knowing that at times you are busy.

And that is why I really like this forum. There are a LOT of great people posting here, but Mike Phillips is why I signed up.

I will admit, that by nature I like to explore varying avenues, but when all else fails, you need to "address the foundation" ( - Steve Smith, former Journey drummer). Mike's tutorials are the foundation for me.