How much Iron-X do you need for each detailing project?

spinz

spinz

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Today i finished using a bottle of 500ml Iron-X on a sedan (i washed the car first).

This was actually my first time using Iron-X and I wonder if this was an overkill?

How much Iron-X do you usually use for a sedan?

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I used about 400 - 450 ml on a dry car the other day. The car was an Audi A4 for size reference. I am not sure how you can use much less and get the desired coverage. Since this is not something you use for every weekly wash I am not sure the cost is that big a factor.
 
Used a full 500 ml on my two door longed truck. I clay it often so it wasn't in bad shape and I take a step back to make sure I get a full spray pattern for application
 
Do we have to wash (and dry) the vehicle prior to using Iron-X?
 
A lot is going to depend upon whether you apply to a dry car or a wet car. It strikes me that a lot of people apply to a bone dry vehicle, which is not the way that we would recommend to use our products, in this class. By applying to a wet vehicle, it is easier to get coverage and also means it is less likely to dry out. Of course, if you wish to do a full decon on a heavily contaminated vehicle, you would probably want to do a double application (in my experience anyway) and thus use quite a bit more.
 
Solomonn said:
Do we have to wash (and dry) the vehicle prior to using Iron-X?
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Directions:

1. Wash the car or wheels surfaces, make sure surface is in cool temp.

2. Shake well, spray on the surface.

3. Rub it in with damp sponge thoroughly.

5. Wait 5 min. while contaminants change its color to purple/red.

6. Wipe off with damp soft sponge.

Don't ’let the IronX dry completely on surface!

7. Rinse well or power wash the whole surface.

The vehicle is ready to clay now.
 
PiPUK said:
A lot is going to depend upon whether you apply to a dry car or a wet car. It strikes me that a lot of people apply to a bone dry vehicle, which is not the way that we would recommend to use our products, in this class. By applying to a wet vehicle, it is easier to get coverage and also means it is less likely to dry out. Of course, if you wish to do a full decon on a heavily contaminated vehicle, you would probably want to do a double application (in my experience anyway) and thus use quite a bit more.
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On the other hand, you don't want to apply to a dripping wet vehicle. Why let the water carry off the product before it has a chance to work?
 
Sicktred08fsi said:
On the other hand, you don't want to apply to a dripping wet vehicle. Why let the water carry off the product before it has a chance to work?
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Well yes, but by the time you put away the hose or your buckets, it will have dried a fair bit. It also depends on the precise product, our fallout removers are typically spray gels which tend to stick much more so than iron-x, so even when they mix with a fair bit of surface water, they wouldn't end up immediately hitting the floor.
 
I always seem to use a lot too. Once, I used almost a whole liter on a Denali. It made me consider Finish Kare's SIRR (roughly $15), a version of Iron-X.
Also, Iron-X has a gel version out now.
 
I asked the wet or dry question to Mike Phillips before in one of his write-ups and he suggested that it will work better on a dry vehicle as it won't get dilluted and run, basically giving you more dwell time on the vehicle for IronX to do it's magic. That is what I did, it wasn't sunny out and it was in the 40's so no worries about drying quickly.
 
I'll be using a pressurized sprayer next time. Doing an SUV I'll go through +16OZ (~500ml) easily. I spray the vehicle head to toe, rims, exhuast, etc.

I also recommend diluting the paste 5:1.
 
So the conclusion is - 450-500ml of Iron-X for a sedan (on dry paint) is normal? :)
 
KMdef9 said:
I'll be using a pressurized sprayer next time. Doing an SUV I'll go through +16OZ (~500ml) easily. I spray the vehicle head to toe, rims, exhuast, etc.

I also recommend diluting the paste 5:1.
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Do you find that the paste version is more cost-effective than the liquid version?
 
expdetailing said:
I always seem to use a lot too. Once, I used almost a whole liter on a Denali. It made me consider Finish Kare's SIRR (roughly $15), a version of Iron-X.
Also, Iron-X has a gel version out now.
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How do you find the gel version comparing with the liquid version?
 
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I only apply below the water line. The hood, roof, and anything above the door handles is a waste IMHO.
 
sweatthedetails said:
I only apply below the water line. The hood, roof, and anything above the door handles is a waste IMHO.
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My roof bleeds as bad as my bonnet. Also my glass sealant typically performs better after iron decon, so I think it worth doing the windscreen.
 
PiPUK said:
My roof bleeds as bad as my bonnet. Also my glass sealant typically performs better after iron decon, so I think it worth doing the windscreen.
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Yes i think it is a good idea to decontaminate the windscreen too but this will easily use more than 500ml...
 
When I got my wife he new Tiguan in July she wanted a certain color and the only one I could find was built in 8/2013. I was sitting on a lot in Ohio for almost 10 months. When I got it back to the dealer I work at I told them not to touch the car i would do it. I used almost a whole bottle of Dodo Juice Ferrous Dueller 500ml. The whole car turned purple. I think there are steel mils in the area of the dealer it was at a lot of airborne contamination and probably rail cars in the area. I swear by these types of products.
 
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