Dr. ColorChip

[SYMAWD]

My 2014 Honda Civic Si already has some paint chips on it, so I bought Dr. ColorChip in hopes of fixing them or making them look better. I had a medium sized one on the passenger side fender and a small, medium, and large one on the hood.

Here's what I started with:


Color matched paint. Paint color is Orange Fire Pearl and the match was pretty much 100%:


Dabbed, then spread:


Removed with SealAct:


I then repeated the process hoping for a more level result and this was the best I could get:


And here are the ones on my hood with the smallest now nearly impossible to see:


From a normal viewing distance:


Also got all the salt off of it today with a rinseless wash performed before the Dr. ColorChip process. All chips were cleaned with IPA.


Overall, it is an idiot proof way to minimize your paint chips, but I feel as if using traditional touch up paint, wet sanding, and then polishing would yield a more level result. It seems like no matter how many times you repeat the process, the Dr. ColorChip paint won't build up on itself to eventually level out with the original finish.

 

[MarkD51]

It might take a number of repeat processes back and forth to get a better leveling of the touch up. A PITA I know, but probably worth the effort, especially if the chips are in a quite visible area.

The learning curve is of course how long to let the paint sit before coming behind with the Sealact solution. The longer it sits, the more effort needed to level and you'll use more Sealact solution, but perhaps the upside is, is that the paint then won't remove out of the chip area as easily. It's a trade off.

I'd imagine temps will play a part too as far as drying times are concerned.

 

[goldenlight]

why not pick up a heat gun for $20 bucks.

 

[SYMAWD]

It might take a number of repeat processes back and forth to get a better leveling of the touch up. A PITA I know, but probably worth the effort, especially if the chips are in a quite visible area.

The learning curve is of course how long to let the paint sit before coming behind with the Sealact solution. The longer it sits, the more effort needed to level and you'll use more Sealact solution, but perhaps the upside is, is that the paint then won't remove out of the chip area as easily. It's a trade off.

I'd imagine temps will play a part too as far as drying times are concerned.

It was about 33 degrees F and the paint still dried in minutes. I might try adding more a few days later. The chip on the fender I repeated the process about 4 times.

 

[EvolutionDetail]

I tried doing Dr.Colorchip, but for the life of me i just can't get it correct.
Is either the paint didn't dry when i try blend.
or when i do it takes the paint back off lol.

Also did u use their provided white cloth for blending? When i used it, it scratched the crap out of my paint.

 

[MarkD51]

I tried doing Dr.Colorchip, but for the life of me i just can't get it correct.
Is either the paint didn't dry when i try blend.
or when i do it takes the paint back off lol.

Also did u use their provided white cloth for blending? When i used it, it scratched the crap out of my paint.

I did try a little experimentation with other cloths like a simple cotton t-shirt to level with the solution, and it didn't seem like it worked as well as what Dr C-Chip provides.

I've never had scratching issues, as after a bit of experience just wipe as lightly as possible to level. I'll remove any smearing around the chip first, then almost with no pressure at all let the Sealact Solution do the work.

When I used it on my white Tahoe, I waited then quite a long time, perhaps a week or more before I then finally came behind with Claying, and DA Polishing. Figured by then the touch up would be good and cured, and not be effected by the polishing processes.

 

[SYMAWD]

I tried doing Dr.Colorchip, but for the life of me i just can't get it correct.
Is either the paint didn't dry when i try blend.
or when i do it takes the paint back off lol.

Also did u use their provided white cloth for blending? When i used it, it scratched the crap out of my paint.

The white cloth does cause minor marks, but nothing a light polish won't take care of. You really don't need much pressure.

 

[SYMAWD]

Changed my technique a bit thanks to some tips here and another forum and the results were much better. One more application and I should be good.

 

[Sicoupe]

^ looking good SYMAWD

 

[cardaddy]

Changed my technique a bit thanks to some tips here and another forum and the results were much better. One more application and I should be good.
http://s1014.photobucket.com/user/SYMAWD/media/IMAG0496_zpsbgrbf0fy.jpg.html

Now your talking!:dblthumb2:

I've found you can get better leveling by not using your thumb as the 'dabber'. You know those plastic cards you get in junk mail, stuck to a letter with goo... credit card size but thinner? Either those or a plastic business card. Those will work without going down into the chip. Both are preferable to a real credit card because that puppy is just too stiff and hard.

One thing on those that come in the mail.... they are stamp cut and you'll find that one side tends to have a sharp edge from where they are stamped, and the other side is more rounded/smooth. Nothing a bit of 3000 grit can't cure, but it's not necessary if you just feel the card first.

Sure, Dr. Colorchip has their own rubberized mini squeegee, and if you have one, that'll work too.

 

[Kyle_Elantra]

Can you post the steps you took for the "updated" process? What did you change about your technique?

Those results look MUCH better than before.

 

[SYMAWD]

Can you post the steps you took for the "updated" process? What did you change about your technique?

Those results look MUCH better than before.

I applied it by dripping a blob of paint into the chip by putting paint on a toothpick and letting it slide off. I then allowed a 30 minute dry time. With one more application, I think it will be perfect.

 

[Belphegor]

Thanks for posting this Symawd! This and Mike's thread regarding Dr. Colorchip have enforced my confidence in buying my own kit.

 

[MarkD51]

With Langka versus Dr ColorChip, I never had any success with the Langka, as within 1-2 swipes too many, you'd knock the paint right out of the chip, and I tried and tried many times. Perhaps a system I just never got the hang of?

Plus the long wait times for factory touch up paint to dry, running on vertical panels, guessing when the right time was to use it, etc.

But what I did like about Langka was another use I sort of stumbled upon, and that was to remove fubarred old previous touchups with factory touch up paint without having to resort to wet sanding, or the sanding blocks.

Yeah, a little bit of work rubbing, but much safer IMO without worry of rubbing through clear coats, and even the color coat. Been there and done that!

 

[allenk4]

.

But what I did like about Langka was another use I sort of stumbled upon, and that was to remove fubarred old previous touchups with factory touch up paint without having to resort to wet sanding, or the sanding blocks.

!

Good info

 

[brettS4]

I never had any luck with langka either. But I'll need to do something about my hood this spring, so it looks like I'll pay a visit to the Dr.

How much paint comes with the kit? I have at least a dozen chips and I suspect half of them will require multiple coats.

 

[MarkD51]

I never had any luck with langka either. But I'll need to do something about my hood this spring, so it looks like I'll pay a visit to the Dr.

How much paint comes with the kit? I have at least a dozen chips and I suspect half of them will require multiple coats.

The Kit ordered here through Autogeek comes with a 1 oz bottle of Paint, plenty of Sealact Solution to level most average touch up jobs (4oz) A few small Paintbrushes, a small Cloth similar in nap texture to a white Cotton T-Shirt, a small Microfiber Towel, and 1 or 2 Nitrile Gloves in a Box with Instructions. One ounce of Paint will be plenty to finish your current touch up tasks as well as for any that may come along in the future.

Videos can also be easily found online at places like Youtube, and also here too.

One can order individual items online at Dr Colorchip's Website also. IMO the complete Kit is about the best bang for the dollar spent, as everything is included.

 

[MarkD51]

And speaking of which, I'm taking a break right now, was doing some Dr. C-Chip touch up on my 2001 Kia Spectra in Magenta Pearl Metallic.

First I'll say, the car is of course 14 years old, and when you get up close to the car, especially the Hood, you'd swear I followed behind a Gravel Truck for 500 miles, yep, that bad. Just peppered on the hood, and chips basically on every other panel, beside some scratches.

It certainly isn't a new car, that's for sure.

So, I simply ordered just a 1oz bottle from Dr C-Chip direct as I had some Sealact Solution, and the other goods included from another previously bought Kit.

All I can say, is that I am more than wowed, I am totally flabbergasted, that many of these chips just simply disappeared, and I'm not talking that you cannot see them from a foot away, I'm saying that many I cannot even see from 2" away!

The color match was totally perfect, the Metallic in the paint is absolutely perfect.

I simply just dabbed the paint quickly with the small MF Applicator Brush, leaving ample paint and a blob over each chip. Never even bothered to smear, just kept going, and walked around the vehicle, hitting all upper panels for now.

I'll do a little more in a little bit.

Can't say enough good about the product.

I had trouble with the first order from them, for my White Tahoe, and evidently, it appears that there is actually 2 different hues-shades of Summit White over the years. So I believe the error was not their fault.

With a paint sample sent, they got the color right on the second time.

 

[SYMAWD]

So, due to the weather and when I work, an update will probably take about 2 months. Also, I got another test spot. This time on the driver's side front fender.