Just a tip on posting photos: Please hit the [Enter] key after each one, so we don't have to horizontally scroll!
That's a great tip... a tip I find myself sharing from time to time. It's really pretty simple too. Also works great when writing text to break huge chunks of text into smaller bites to make it easier to read.
I edited the OP's first post, I think everyone will find it easier to read now.
To the OP...
I've been answering questions about fillers all forum life now and like Bob mentioned Meguiar's is as about a pro-grade as you can get, even their Consumer Line.
Most people get their information about fillers from the Internet and we all know everything you read on the Internet is true.
Here's the dealio... all compounds and polishes that work and I define the word work to mean they can remove defects and leave the paint looking better than when they were used, use some type of lubricating fluid so the abrasives don't simply SCOUR the paint. That would defeat the entire purpose of why you and I polish paint and I think it's the key point that is lost among all those that without a clue talk about fillers.
The lubricating fluids, whatever they may be, in the compound or polish not only lubricate the surface so YOU get great results but the side effect is they can leave themselves behind, (normal), and thus act to fill in very fine defects.
There are actual "fillers" used in products for the purpose of filling and even if Meguiar's Ultimate Polish were to contain fillers for the purpose of filling that doesn't mean the product still won't remove defect and leave the paint looking better than when you started.
It should be noted that this product is a very fine cut polish and the person using it shouldn't have HUGE expectations that it will perform like a compound because it won't. That's call part of the learning curve that each of us travels to become educated on the products we use in this industry so that not only can we choose and use the appropriate product for the job at hand but so that we can talk or discuss intelligently these same product.
As to your defects...
and will be performing a full correction on the entire car with DA.
However, I'm a bit hesitant of sanding or using an aggressive compound due to the "POSSIBLE" low level of clear in the scuffs.
If you're concerned about removing too much clear where this section of the car has already been damaged then simply compound the area lightly as this will improve the appearance to the point where it will be harder to see where the paint was originally damaged and then learn to live with what's left.
Also, should it be treated as "BLACK" when correcting, or could I get away with a more aggressive combo considering the metallic and it being GM paint?
Treat as clearcoated black as black show everything.
Here's what I recommend and have been recommending on the Internet since at least 1993 or
1994...
Do a Test Spot.
That is take the product you're thinking about using over the entire car and test it out in one small section. Usually the hood or trunk lid. You want to test on an area that's going to have the most damage and that's normally a horizontal surface and also a surface that is easy for you to inspect and determine the level of success or in the case of some compounds and polishes, failure.
Use a tape-line but don't buff directly on the line. I'll share my article on that topic in my next reply.
Once you dial in a process that works to your satisfaction in one small area then duplicate this process over the rest of the car. The theory being that if you can make one small area look good then you can make the entire car look good.
Looking for suggestions on product/pad combo for scuff repair and the entire vehicle. Most of the swirls pictured are nearly invisible under normal lighting conditions, and would also like to preserve as much clear coat possible.
105/205/Griot's one step/some old Meg's UC/UP (I'll probably never use)/ Ammo Leveling Fluid/ Ammo Jeweler's Polish
New Meg's black 5" foam discs/ 5" Meg's MF cutting pads/ LC flat orange, white, blue
That's a pretty good selection of products. I've never used any of Larry's products so I can't comment on those but Meguiar's pioneered SMAT or Super Micro Abrasive Technology and both their M105, M201, Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish products are work stellar for most paints and most people.
I'm a foam pad guy and don't use a lot of microfiber pads but I don't have anything against them I just like using foam over fiber on dual action polishers.
That said, out the the products you listed I would buff the damaged section and the entire car would be,
For the Test Spot
Test M105 or Ultimate Compound and an LC Orange Flat Pad on your DA Polisher on speed 6 for about 6-8 section passes. Be sure to mark the back of your backing plate you can can visually monitor and insure good pad rotation as you buff the section.
Wipe off the residue and inspect.
If you're not getting the results you want fast enough then try the Microfiber pads and same products but use a lower speed setting as Meguiar's recommends 4800 OPM for their MF discs.
If you want to take it even a step further after testing the compound if you like the results then test your follow-up polish with the white foam pad and then apply the wax and then inspect and this will be the true end results.
If you run into any problems just post here and everyone will help see you through to success.
Looking forward to your after pictures.
:dblthumb2:
