squeeling rear wheel?

What do guys think about these parts?

Centric Premium Rotors - Free Shipping on Premium Centric Rotors for Cars, Trucks & SUVs
or
Centric Premium High Carbon Rotors - Best Price on Centric High Carbon Blank Brake Rotors

The pads Im still trying to figure out. I heard good stuff about EBC but their red stuff is insane expensive. Atleast from auto anything. Green stuff is about 60-70 a set.

Their rep recommended these..

Posi Quiet Brake Pads, Posi Quiet Ceramic Pads, Posi Quiet Brakes - Videos, Installations & Reviews

I want something with strong grip but doesn't shed much dust.
 
I used those on my Audi A4. Both those rotors (not the high carbon) and pads. No problems at all. The brakes never squealed. Stopping was average (but I was used to premium stop on a dime pads before that). Dusting was very low. For the money, you probably won't find anything better.
 
Well I think I definitely did the brakes in now. I took my car to the local bi weekly drag race and now it squeaks at 40+ and some on the highway. Much more obnoxious at low speeds now as well.

Its still doing the thing though where if I turn left it gets bad (steer left making the car roll towards the bad side) and the sound is totally gone turning right. Gonna pull the tire tomorrow and take a look.

Setec Astronomy said:
I use the Centric rotors (some apps they seem to have just the regular and some only the high carbon) and Akebono Pro-Acts.
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Those pads look interesting. I like that they advertise as low dusting. How is the stopping power?
 
timaishu said:
Those pads look interesting. I like that they advertise as low dusting. How is the stopping power?
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They have a "performance" pad that has a little better stopping power with a little more dust. I haven't found the Pro-Acts to be any different than the OE pads as far as stopping power. I think my friend found them to be a little better.
 
So, you have an unknown mechanical problem with the car that you're trying to diagnose over the internet (at a detailing forum, no less) and you decide to drag race your vehicle?

Please take your car to a mechanic and stop endangering not only your life, but more importantly the lives of the people you line up next to at the strip, and every intersection in the area in which you live.
 
Actually with the difference in the sound turning it sounds like you may have a bearing issue as well...assuming the brakes are bad...
 
aim4squirrels said:
So, you have an unknown mechanical problem with the car that you're trying to diagnose over the internet (at a detailing forum, no less) and you decide to drag race your vehicle?

Please take your car to a mechanic and stop endangering not only your life, but more importantly the lives of the people you line up next to at the strip, and every intersection in the area in which you live.
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DaveT435 said:
Actually with the difference in the sound turning it sounds like you may have a bearing issue as well...assuming the brakes are bad...
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Well, I guess we'll see, and DaveT I know you're a tire shop guy, but really, every symptom the OP has posted is an audible wear indicator symptom. IMO/IME he doesn't have an "unknown mechanical problem" and isn't "endangering his life", he's just got a worn rear brake pad. We should know shortly.
 
A sound that gets worse on one side when turning is often a wheel bearing. But the description of the noise doesn't match up. I had 4 wheel bearings go bad over 5 years and never did it sound like that. It's almost certainly a pad issue.

I wouldn't recommend ceramic pads if you do any racing. Get sintered (semi-metallic) pads instead. You kinda have to decide which is more important... stopping power or low dust. You can't have both without spending big bucks.
 
Took wheel off. Brake pads have lots of life left, wear indicators are miles from the rotor(unless I am looking at the wrong thing.). At this point Im gonna take it to my mechanic and have him diagnose for me I think. If he says its the brakes. I will DIY it for learning purposes, otherwise I will let him fix whatever else is wrong. I don't see anything obvious.

I will take a pic once I get the caliper off.
 
Check the heat shield to make sure it's not rubbing on anything moving.

Did you try wiggling the wheel side to side while I was off the ground? That would be a sure sign of bearing problems if it moves.

Beyond that, I suppose it could be the parking brake or guide pins. There's not much else there to work with. Btw, have you checked the CV boot??
 
brettS4 said:
Check the heat shield to make sure it's not rubbing on anything moving.

Did you try wiggling the wheel side to side while I was off the ground? That would be a sure sign of bearing problems if it moves.

Beyond that, I suppose it could be the parking brake or guide pins. There's not much else there to work with. Btw, have you checked the CV boot??
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No cv boot(fwd). Was a little wobble, but I attributed that to me loosening the lug nuts(will check when I put the wheel back on). So far Im at a standstill. Im using my brothers matco impact gun at full torque and I cannot get the top caliper bolt out. No easy way I could find to get to it so I am using an angle impact attachment and I have it angled as far as it can go and its not hitting it fully square on unless I hold the extension rod with a little force. Gonna check the Nissan forums and see if they found an easier angle to hit it that I don't see.
 
Why do you want to take the caliper off? Snap a picture of the window in the caliper so we can see the rotor and the pads, and where you see the wear indicators away from the rotor. Can you see the back of the rotor? Is it smooth? Is the front?

Hard to believe you have "plenty of pad left" even on the back, after 50K miles, although not outside the realm of possibility.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Why do you want to take the caliper off? Snap a picture of the window in the caliper so we can see the rotor and the pads, and where you see the wear indicators away from the rotor. Can you see the back of the rotor? Is it smooth? Is the front?

Hard to believe you have "plenty of pad left" even on the back, after 50K miles, although not outside the realm of possibility.
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Just to get a better view. Not necessarily take it off, just take out one bolt and loosen the other so I could rotate it off rotor. I am aware of the peep hole and I could see the pad, but since it looked like a bit of pad was left, I wanted a better view.

Anyways I broke the note loose with a shorter breaker bar and me basically using my entire body weight until it broke loose. I will take some pictures now..
 
Ok, if it was me I wouldn't have disturbed it unless I was going to change the pads and cut the rotor, after 50K they are likely pretty grooved into the rotor.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Ok, if it was me I wouldn't have disturbed it unless I was going to change the pads and cut the rotor, after 50K they are likely pretty grooved into the rotor.
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Hmmm. Didn't consider that but you have a point. Well whats done is now..

Anyways, here are some pictures. Couldn't quite get a ruler in there, but I am guessing maybe 5mm of thickness.

IMG_20150214_101733286_zpsbu3z6dtd.jpg

IMG_20150214_101350511_zpsf5421nxl.jpg

IMG_20150214_101733286_zpsbu3z6dtd.jpg
 
You're right, you've got plenty of pad, no need for a ruler, they still have the groove in the middle. That should go back together fine, the rotors aren't grooved, at least the side I can see. Is the back of the rotor as smooth as the side shown in the pics?

The other thing to look for is if one of the pads is wearing in a taper.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
You're right, you've got plenty of pad, no need for a ruler, they still have the groove in the middle. That should go back together fine, the rotors aren't grooved, at least the side I can see. Is the back of the rotor as smooth as the side shown in the pics?

The other thing to look for is if one of the pads is wearing in a taper.
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No, the rotor is grooved on the front facing side. You just cant see in the picture..

I will check for a taper, didn't think of that. brb..

EDIT: Really hard to tell due to the head shield covering the back, if its grooved or not. Cant see a taper either.

At this point, I am going to put everything back together and take it to my mechanic for a proper diagnosis. If it was obviously the brakes, I would go ahead with my plan of new rotors and pads and do it myself as a project and learning experience. Ill let my mechanic make the call on this one.. If he says brakes, I will get a quote from him and ask how much it would cost if I supply the parts (he is big on OEM, and OEM Nissan rotors are rubbish, pads are decent though, but the whole OEM kit is expensive) and have him do the labor for just the rear. If its too much, I will do the rear myself. If its not the brakes, I will let him, take care of whatever it is.
 
When I say grooved, what I mean is a depressed area where the pad has been riding, not small grooves. Maybe a better description is a "wear land". It's just sometimes hard to get the pads back in the exact same place when that happens, and then the pads sit on the rust and don't seat back in properly, but yours don't look that way.
 
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