problem with Megs 7 glaze

goatman65

goatman65

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I just used 105/205 on 2 yr old lacquer and thought I would put down some #7 glaze then follow it with Souvern wax. I tried a small area by hand using a new foam pad and no pressure,basically just wiping it back and forth a few times. Then while it was wet I tried to wipe it off with a mf towel.
Most of it would not come off. I actually had to use a little 105 to remove the glaze. It also seems to leave the paint hazy. I know #7 is good stuff,i have been using it since the 1980s.[not the same bottle]

I also tried applying/wiping off with different mf pads,towels and terrycloth but it sticks like glue. So what causes it to not come off? I see guys,including Mike will even leave it on overnight. Maybe I should let it dry?
 
What are you working on?


#7 is a semi-drying oil, that is it doesn't really dry. The top surface will skin kind of like pudding but it's very oily and you actually don't want it to dry as there's no benefit to you or the paint to let it dry.

It's supposed to be wiped on, worked in and then wiped off.

For paint that has been compounded and polished you would use a very thin coat and work panel by panel. That is apply to a door and then remove from the door before moving on.

Most of my work and most of my writing is about using #7 to save dead paint. It doesn't sound like you're trying to save, dead antique paint.



I can't remember every having the type of issue you're describing but I don't use #7 very often on new paint.


:dunno:
 
According to Mike Phillips, you need to RUB the #7 into the paint, HEAVILY ... Using a lot of #7 and saturate the paint with it, just using a little bit and "tickling" the paint isn't going to work.

Here is a long article by Mike that details how to use #7 on old faded paint. Long, but a really good read.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/25304-secret-removing-oxidation-restoring-show-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html

Here is a quote from the article:
#7 is a semi-drying oil, that is it doesn't really dry. The top surface will skin kind of like pudding but it's very oily and you actually don't want it to dry as there's no benefit to you or the paint to let it dry.

It's supposed to be wiped on, worked in and then wiped off.

For paint that has been compounded and polished you would use a very thin coat and work panel by panel. That is apply to a door and then remove from the door before moving on.
Click to expand...
 
A couple more tips I recall from Mike... Use a towel to break the surface film that has semi-dried and use another towel to buff. If you have hard to remove areas use some more #7 to re-dissolve it and buff it off.

Great product for older single stage paint. I used to apply #7 OVER my LSP just before a show to make the paint look dripping wet. I'd re-apply my LSP after the show but the wet look was an eye catcher. Again, this was on older SS paint. Not much to be gained on most newer CC paint, IMO. The red MR2 in my sig was one of the SS cars that really liked #7.
 
Dang Mike, you beat me by 6 minutes with the same post ... :laughing:




Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
What are you working on?


#7 is a semi-drying oil, that is it doesn't really dry. The top surface will skin kind of like pudding but it's very oily and you actually don't want it to dry as there's no benefit to you or the paint to let it dry.

It's supposed to be wiped on, worked in and then wiped off.

For paint that has been compounded and polished you would use a very thin coat and work panel by panel. That is apply to a door and then remove from the door before moving on.

Most of my work and most of my writing is about using #7 to save dead paint. It doesn't sound like you're trying to save, dead antique paint.



I can't remember every having the type of issue you're describing but I don't use #7 very often on new paint.


:dunno:
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the tips. I 'll try different techniques and if I still have problems then i'll just skip it and go to the wax.
 
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