Newbie With Oversize Polish Job

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Freewill

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Hello. I'm new to the art of paint polishing, but I've polished a lot of metal and some plastic parts in the past.

Last winter I ran my motor coach too close to some branches and picked up some 38 foot long Arizona pinstripes along one side. These aren't gouges or deep scratches - the clearcoat is not damaged except cosmetically.

I plan to pick up a Flex DA polisher along with some pads and chemicals. This will be a 2 or 3 step process.

It would be great to hear any advice or "gotchas" from folks with more experience before I start.

The coach looks like this.
 
I thought most of the big RVs had vinyl wraps, or maybe its just the really nice ones like yours are painted.

This is a case where a test spot is crucial to determine the best combination of product and pad. I wouldn't want to do anymore then one step on that. But that also depends on your goal.
 
Thanks for the replies. This photo is a few inches of the damage. You can't really feel the scratches - at least not with my tool-hand fingers.

I'm pretty sure this coach has sprayed-on clearcoat. There is a small area that has been repaired and re-painted that appears to be plastic wrapped. That area is different from the rest of the coach, and looks like crap BTW.
 
geekdout said:
I thought most of the big RVs had vinyl wraps, or maybe its just the really nice ones like yours are painted.

This is a case where a test spot is crucial to determine the best combination of product and pad. I wouldn't want to do anymore then one step on that. But that also depends on your goal.
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The goal is to reduce or eliminate the scratched appearance. Not going for a show car polish here. It would be great if the area I polish ends up looking like the rest of the coach, otherwise I may end up with a REALLY big polish job. Its not my intention to polish the entire coach if I can help it.

So your advice to work with a test spot is well taken, because I know it will be a bit tricky to get the area I polish to blend with the existing finish. I assume that getting the match will require just the right product and pad for the last (or possibly only) step.

Any suggestions for which pad(s) and product(s) to buy and try are very welcome!

Thanks.
 
Ok, just a few things initially come to mind, if you're used to polishing metal and (some) plastics, the big difference is the finite thickness of paint, so you don't have the option of taking off large amounts of material.

As far as the polished area not matching the rest of the coach, that really depends on the condition of the rest of the surface, if it's in good shape, it should match fine, if it's dull, etc. the polished areas will certainly stand out.

Those scratches look pretty deep to me--don't expect to be able to remove them fully, but you should be able to minimize the appearance. Also, I'm with the other poster in advising you be sure what kind of surface you're dealing with, in that picture it does look like it could be some sort of decal or wrap, but it's hard to tell.
 
m100 and lake country foamed wool pads should knock it out. if need be sand down with 2000 grit
 
Did you try rubbing compound?Why go through all the complications (pad,speed, product) keep it simple with a light hand
 
kevvyj said:
Did you try rubbing compound?Why go through all the complications (pad,speed, product) keep it simple with a light hand
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Scratches and "rubbing compound" are always a recipe for newb disaster.

The OP has 38' of scratches, I don't know about you but my "hand" is going to be awfully tired after that. The OP has the right idea using a machine, and it will be simple once he evaluates his surface and chooses the right polish/pad.
 
About the existing finish - I have another problem where a small (4" diameter) piece of fiberglass got knocked out of the rear end cap. I can see all the layers of glass and finish coats. Its a real thick and hard finish, several layers, and clearly not vinyl.

The scratches have little or no depth. The branch ends that caused them had been rubbed round by all the other vehicles that got scratched the same way. Think of a small pencil eraser, but harder. I can't feel them or catch a fingernail on them. Even as thin as the clearcoat is, there appears to be enough material to polish. (He said, hopefully.)

I have thought about hand rubbing, but I have 5 rigs and wanted to start using a power polisher on them anyway. In fact, I will practice on my old truck before using the Flex on the coach's finish or the newer cars. Its a skill I've wanted to gain for a while anyway.
 
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