Best Products and Techniques for Older Paint

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Sharpie1

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I currently own a 1983 Mercedes-Benz 300D. The car has a paint color of light ivory and is the original paint on the car. The overall appearance of the paint is good – however there is some cracking noticeable when examined closely. I drive the car often (at least 3-4 days per week) and I would like to preserve the originality of the car, including the paint, as long as possible.

I have been using Klasse acrylic paint sealer about every other time I wash the car – and I sometimes use Pinnacle Souveran wax over that. I apply the Klasse with a microfiber or foam applicator – then buff off with a microfiber cloth. I apply the Pinnacle Souveran wax similarly, but buff off with a random orbital polisher with a microfiber bonnet.

After doing more research, however, it seems this might not be the best combination. This is chiefly because it appears the Klasse is for newer paints – not a paint finish from 1983. A quote from the website indicates Klasse is “…for new cars and oxidation-free surfaces…”.

My goal is primarily to preserve and protect the original paint as long as possible. That said, what are some recommended products and/or techniques to best care for this type of paint?

Helpful comments from this knowledgeable community are appreciated.

Thanks…
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I'm curious why these particular products would be recommended. According to the product descriptions, they're designed to be used on brand new paint??
 
I just read a large article on this site about the #7 regarding its history and use to condition old paint and to remove oxidation. It would seem that using this product first, then following up with Collinite 845 would be a good way to go.

Am I right?
 
#7 has been around a very long time and was/is the sealant of choice for high end cars of 70's / 80's.

It's very safe, both on clear and one stage paints. It has minerals and lubricants. It will also hide minor cosmetic defects in paint.

It's an old faithful.
 
Do you have any pics?

Are you trying to remove scratches / swirls / other defects as well?
 
Sure - here are some pics of the paint on the car.
 
Ok, so you won't be able to remove all that cracking, but you could definitely make an improvement to most of it. There's some that looks much shallower, like fine scratches, which I reckon will come out.

I'd try to replenish the paint first with a good soaking or two of M7 first. Do a search for Mike Phillips' thread here about how to restore single stage paint using M7.

If you want to do any correction, you would then apply a compound and/or polish, then lock it all in with a sealant and/or wax.
 
davey g-force said:
Ok, so you won't be able to remove all that cracking, but you could definitely make an improvement to most of it. There's some that looks much shallower, like fine scratches, which I reckon will come out.

I'd try to replenish the paint first with a good soaking or two of M7 first. Do a search for Mike Phillips' thread here about how to restore single stage paint using M7.

If you want to do any correction, you would then apply a compound and/or polish, then lock it all in with a sealant and/or wax.
Click to expand...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...w-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html
 
paul_g said:
#7 has been around a very long time and was/is the sealant of choice for high end cars of 70's / 80's.

It's very safe, both on clear and one stage paints. It has minerals and lubricants. It will also hide minor cosmetic defects in paint.

It's an old faithful.
Click to expand...

Paul,

#7 isn't a sealant. Just a 'pure polish' that will easily wash off if not protected with an LSP.

Bill
 
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I thought this would be more appropriate than starting all over again.

I have acquired the Meguiar's #7 and I've applied it by hand to the car. I have also previously used Klasse AIO Sealer and Collinite 845.

Now that I've been studying more on paint correction and paint protection techniques, I realize I could be using more effective techniques.

That said, I have recently acquired the Porter cable 7424XP polisher. When it warms up, I'm considering doing the following to this car:

1 - Washing and claying (the car has never been clayed)

2 - Polish. I have purchased the Chemical Guys Hex-Logic pad set to use with the 7424XP (neither of which I have used before). I'd like to get a recommendation on a compound to use and a recommendation on which pad I should use in this step.

3 - Apply Meguiar's #7 Mirror Glaze (should I apply this with the polisher? If so, which pad?)

4 - Apply Klasse AIO (will this be an appropriate product to use at this step - or will this "remove" or undo the #7? Would a better product be best used at this step?)

5 - Apply Collinite 845 (for the best, most long-lasting wax for best protection.

Am I missing any steps here? Are there more appropriate products to use for this car with this paint?

Any helpful info would be appreciated.

Thanks again for your help.
 
Sharpie1 said:
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I thought this would be more appropriate than starting all over again.

I have acquired the Meguiar's #7 and I've applied it by hand to the car. I have also previously used Klasse AIO Sealer and Collinite 845.

Now that I've been studying more on paint correction and paint protection techniques, I realize I could be using more effective techniques.

That said, I have recently acquired the Porter cable 7424XP polisher. When it warms up, I'm considering doing the following to this car:

1 - Washing and claying (the car has never been clayed)

2 - Polish. I have purchased the Chemical Guys Hex-Logic pad set to use with the 7424XP (neither of which I have used before). I'd like to get a recommendation on a compound to use and a recommendation on which pad I should use in this step.

3 - Apply Meguiar's #7 Mirror Glaze (should I apply this with the polisher? If so, which pad?)

4 - Apply Klasse AIO (will this be an appropriate product to use at this step - or will this "remove" or undo the #7? Would a better product be best used at this step?)

5 - Apply Collinite 845 (for the best, most long-lasting wax for best protection.

Am I missing any steps here? Are there more appropriate products to use for this car with this paint?

Any helpful info would be appreciated.

Thanks again for your help.
Click to expand...
The Klasse WILL remove the #7 . Use 845 after #7.
 
Is there a recommended paint sealant which could be used after the #7 and before the Collinite 845? I'm going for max protection.

Also - on step 2 mentioned above, any advice on that one?
 
That is lacquer checking for sure. I worked in a body shop in the mid nineties. We had an 83 Benz turbo diesel come in, like yours. Guy dropped 4 grand for a repaint (Gold metallic). It had 565,000 miles on it. I saw it out a couple years later at a restaurant..................peeked at the odometer..........................guess what, 735,000 miles on it. Cars are not built like that anymore.
 
Sharpie1 said:
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I thought this would be more appropriate than starting all over again.

I have acquired the Meguiar's #7 and I've applied it by hand to the car. I have also previously used Klasse AIO Sealer and Collinite 845.

3 - Apply Meguiar's #7 Mirror Glaze (should I apply this with the polisher? If so, which pad?)

Am I missing any steps here? Are there more appropriate products to use for this car with this paint?

Any helpful info would be appreciated.

Thanks again for your help.
Click to expand...

Apply the M07 by hand and apply it with some "passion", really working into the paint. I've used either a soft terrycloth or mf cloth to apply, depending on the level of correction needed, terry being more aggressive. Let it soak into the paint, overnight if possible. One of the benefits of M07 is that the oil content acts as a moisturiser, making the paint more workable with the polish you choose as the next step. I still like Meguiar's "old school" polishes as the next step, such as M80, M09 or M03, depending on the level of cut needed, but any good polish or swirl remover will work. I also like to do one more thin hand app of M07 prior to my LSP, this time removing it immediately rather than letting it soak. Finish with a non-cleaning wax of your choice.

Bill
 
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