Need help with truck hood

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ccm

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I have a 2011 F150 that is housed outside so it is exposed to the elements 24/7. The truck is solid white and I wash and wax as needed but the wax on the hood quits beading pretty quickly after waxing. It has been about 2 to 3 months since I waxed the truck and when it rains the sides of the truck bead up just like it did the day I waxed it but the hood does not bead up at all. I have the same problem with the roof of the truck. I understand that since the hood and roof are horizontal surfaces the wax job will not hold up like the sides but I feel the hood and roof should do better than they are now. I wash with an over the counter car wash and wax with Collonite 845. I have clayed the truck several times, in the past, but it does not give me a longer shine on the hood and roof.

Any suggestions to prolong the shine on these trouble areas would be greatly appreciated.

Charlie
 
You might want to decontaminate the horizontal surfaces with IronX. Buff with a light polish if you have a machine, if not, use a paint cleaner and seal with two coats of 845.
 
Dude... If it sits outside 24/7 there's not much you can do other than finding some shade or shelter. If that is not possible then you'll just need to clean/polish/wax those surfaces more often.

Probably not the answer you were hoping for but it's a fact of life.
 
Clean/clay/decontaminate/ polish/car pro eraser. Whatever you can do to get your surface clean for sealant. I use Power lock. I am seeing 8 months on a prepped surface
 
Billy Baldone said:
Clean/clay/decontaminate/ polish/car pro eraser. Whatever you can do to get your surface clean for sealant. I use Power lock. I am seeing 8 months on a prepped surface
Click to expand...

Billy
Does your car stay outside 24/7?

Thanks for the advice.

Charlie
 
I've never gotten more than a couple months out of Power Lock down here in Florida with it outside 24/7. WG 3.0 and Blackfire WD both have proved themselves to me to hold up better under the hot Florida sun.
 
Use 476 or 915 on the hood and roof instead and compare.
 
I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado with a little over 200,000 miles on it. It is outside 24/7. I seal the paint in the fall and after surviving an Iowa winter, water still beads up on the paint surfaces.

I use Mequiars Mirror Glaze No. 21 Synthetic Sealant 2.0.

Roger T
 
ccm said:
I have a 2011 F150 that is housed outside so it is exposed to the elements 24/7.

The truck is solid white and I wash and wax as needed but the wax on the hood quits beading pretty quickly after waxing.
Click to expand...


Have you ever done any pre-wax work besides washing?

For example have you ever clayed the hood?

Have you ever polished the hood with a dedicated compound or polish by hand or machine?

Here's a simple test... after either washing or wiping the hood clean

First - Feel the paint on the hood with your bare hand.

Second - Feel the paint on the hood with your hand inside a sandwich baggie
​

Tell us what you find out?

The Baggie Test - How to inspect for above surface bonded contaminants

PaintCleaningByHand022.jpg






:)
 
Here's my guess....

You're using a finishing wax which means you're using a wax that has zero cleaning ability.

  • You're working on a truck that is 4+ years old.
  • The hood being a horizontal panel takes the brunt of abuse from the environment and it's probably in need of a thorough claying and polishing.
A finishing wax is meant to be used on paint that is new or like new. That means it's clear, clean, smooth and shiny already.


A cleaner/wax is for neglected paint. It will clean, polish and wax in one-step. Some people call cleaner/waxes AIO's but these words mean the exact same thing.


Sounds like you might want to switch over to a cleaner/wax to maintain your truck's paint. It's really the best way to go for a truck that is exposed to the world 7 days a week, 24 hours a day.

My truck won't fit inside a normal garage and thus it's parked outside full time. I use a cleaner/wax to maintain my truck's finish. Even after a week or two goes by after I machine wax the paint on my truck the pad turns an ugly brownish color. That's the DIRT that has embedded or impacted onto the paint coming off with the cleaners in the cleaner/wax.


Here's one of my all time favorite article I've ever written with some really good pictures that totally tell the story.

Here's why you need to polish paint...



:)
 
Definitely should clay the hood and all horizontal surfaces. That should make a good bit of difference.
 
Make sure when you clay, you use a baggie to inspect. I've encountered too many people who clay their car and think they're doing it well, only to baggie test it and find they didn't do a thorough job.
It should take a long time to clay your car. At least 45 minutes (most likely more).
 
Billy Baldone said:
Clean/clay/decontaminate/ polish/car pro eraser. Whatever you can do to get your surface clean for sealant. I use Power lock. I am seeing 8 months on a prepped surface
Click to expand...

I have some Power Lock on order.

Thanks

Charlie
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Have you ever done any pre-wax work besides washing?

For example have you ever clayed the hood?

Have you ever polished the hood with a dedicated compound or polish by hand or machine?

Here's a simple test... after either washing or wiping the hood clean
First - Feel the paint on the hood with your bare hand.

Second - Feel the paint on the hood with your hand inside a sandwich baggie
​
Tell us what you find out?

The Baggie Test - How to inspect for above surface bonded contaminants

PaintCleaningByHand022.jpg






:)
Click to expand...

Mike
You are correct, I have done no pre wax work after washing. I have clayed the entire truck. I have also done the baggie test after claying.

I appreciate your advice.

Charlie
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Here's my guess....

You're using a finishing wax which means you're using a wax that has zero cleaning ability.

  • You're working on a truck that is 4+ years old.
  • The hood being a horizontal panel takes the brunt of abuse from the environment and it's probably in need of a thorough claying and polishing.
A finishing wax is meant to be used on paint that is new or like new. That means it's clear, clean, smooth and shiny already.


A cleaner/wax is for neglected paint. It will clean, polish and wax in one-step. Some people call cleaner/waxes AIO's but these words mean the exact same thing.


Sounds like you might want to switch over to a cleaner/wax to maintain your truck's paint. It's really the best way to go for a truck that is exposed to the world 7 days a week, 24 hours a day.

My truck won't fit inside a normal garage and thus it's parked outside full time. I use a cleaner/wax to maintain my truck's finish. Even after a week or two goes by after I machine wax the paint on my truck the pad turns an ugly brownish color. That's the DIRT that has embedded or impacted onto the paint coming off with the cleaners in the cleaner/wax.


Here's one of my all time favorite article I've ever written with some really good pictures that totally tell the story.

Here's why you need to polish paint...



:)
Click to expand...

Mike
All of your guesses are right. I think I may be asking too much from my current wax (Collonite 845). If I were to use Power Lock after my washing and claying would you recommend I also add a coat of wax?

Thanks for the help.

Charlie
 
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